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January 19, 2012

Hot Topics, Public Culture, Museums

Hot Topics, Public Culture, Museums
Fiona Cameron & Lynda Kelly (Eds) (2010)
Newcastle Upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing

by Jeffrey Feldman, NYU

In the past few decades, the field of Museum Studies has seen the emergence of a reflexive and often ethnographic interest in cultural and political controversies that often ignite in the course of assembling a collection, mounting an exhibition or planning a new museum altogether. This trend has unfolded both on the museum-based, practice-oriented side of the profession, as well as on the university-based, theory-oriented, side. Curiously, those wishing to bring this trend into a syllabus via an edited volume will find themselves limited to Steve Dubin’s Displays of Power (NYU Press, 2001) or Michael Kammen’s Visual Shock (Vintage, 2007).

Given this situation, scholars and professionals alike will welcome Hot Topics, Public Culture, Museums (2010) edited by Fiona Cameron & Lynda Kelly, a new volume exploring various aspects of museum controversy resulting from the findings of two research projects: Exhibitions as Contested Sites, the Roles of Museums in Contemporary Societies, funded by the Australian Research Council, and Contested Sites Canada, funded by the Canadian Museum Association).

As Cameron notes, controversies have became more frequent in the past twenty years as “taboo subjects, revisionist histories and political issues” entered the museum with more frequency, and as groups seeking arenas to contest long-standing claims about nation, race, gender, and government policy have seized upon various topics hitherto perceived as settled. For the museum scholars, this combination has led to a general unsettling of core definitions on which the field has rested. Controversies, in other words, do not just unsettle audiences or institutions within the context of specific topics, but bring new urgency to reconstruct “the museum idea itself” (Cameron, p, 6) in light of contemporary understandings of complex society.

Accordingly, Hot Topics has been organized into two sections: eight more theoretical chapters, exploring the idea of the museum through various philosophical modelings of complex society, and eight more empirical chapters, examining various pathways for engaging museum audiences.

As if to prefigure Part I, Caleb Williams’ fascinating chapter, walks the reader through eight different museum models, including a “post-modern crisis model,” “emancipatory museum model,” and “curatorial psychology model.” Fiona Cameron reads Ulrich Beck’s notion of a “global risk society” as an opening to redefining the museum as locations focused on engaging, not avoiding controversy. Richard Sandell and Stuart Frost consider the topics of sexuality and sexual identity by critical evaluation of the heteronormativity underpinning history of museum representation, with an eye towards rebuilding more inclusive museum future.

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January 8, 2012

Vibrant Matter (collective reviews)

The new journal Dialogues in Human Geography offers a comprehensive book review forum whereby several scholars examine the same volume and the author(s) or editor(s) is allowed a riposte to the comments. The format is similar to the well established article discussions which anthropologists have become accustomed to from Current Anthropology.

In the current issue 2011, 1(3): 390-406, one finds a series of reviews of Jane Bennett's Vibrant Matter: A Political Ecology of Things (2010, Duke Univ. Press) by Christian Abrahamsson, Ben Anderson, Bruce Braun, Nicky Gregson, and Steve Hinchliffe.

Book Review Forum 2

November 30, 2011

Sustainable Fashion

Daniel Miller, UCL

Kate Fletcher is best known for her 2008 book Sustainable Fashion (Earthscan) one of the great advantages of this book is the way is crossed fields from natural science through social science to the arts. More specifically it used natural science to establish what is known about the basic materials that are used in clothing whether synthetic, plant and animal derived fibres and also what we are finding out about the consequences of each. These might range from the speed and ease of decomposition to the water or chemicals used in their production. But this work flows naturally into social science issues based around the conventional norms of consumption. Since often the core to environmental consequence lies in consumption itself, for example how quickly we consider a certain garment to have become dirty and to need washing multiplied by the amount of water required by the type of washing we presume is required. The final part of this triumvirate is aesthetic in as much as the volume is replete with high class fashion photography that both illustrates and promotes the activities of all those companies that at that time were trying to promote various aspects of more sustainable fashion. The book is complemented by others such as Lucy Siegle’s recent book To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? (Fourth Estate) Siegle is a journalist and the writing is more pacy and passionate, and I would say an important read, but is complemented by Fletcher who provides the access to scholarship and science but also to designers and the industry that are the other routes to having an impact in this sector.

Since publishing her book Fletcher has been developing her `Local Wisdom’ website based around her employment at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion. This is not directed at academics, but consists rather of snippets, anecdotes and photos that might appeal more to designers as a potential influence, which is the intention of the site. What I find interesting is the increasing emphasis upon consumption as central to issues of sustainability and also as the source of a creative response.

Intriguingly if you look through the site you can see that in effect it blends two very different kinds of activity. One is individuals who have an increasing concern and consciousness over environmental issues and who are looking for practices such as washing clothes less or finding clothes suited to a variety of seasons that seems to be helpful in developing sustainability. On the other hand the site also picks up stories that emerge from historical and conventional practices such as the inheritance of clothes or sharing them within the family or home repair. These may have developed from quite different concerns such as frugality or family sociality, but can now be re-considered in terms of their potential as making consumption more sustainable. I am interested in this juxtaposition, since in my own work on Blue Jeans – the art of the ordinary (D. Miller and S. Woodward. University of California Press 2012), these come out as particularly good examples of what we might consider the fortuitously sustainable. That is people keep jeans longer, wear them more, wash them less and resist fashion more than with any other kind of garment. But none of this was done for reasons of sustainability. Looking at the sector as a whole it raises for me an significant question about how we develop more sustainable practices. In short do we hope to inspire designers and the corporations and have these come down to mass populations from above, or do we start from mass practice and try to re-think their potential for sustainable consumption and then direct these upwards to influence production?

October 22, 2011

Everyday, Pre-Modern Material Culture

Review of Tara Hamling & Catherine Richardson (eds). 2010. Everyday Objects: Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture and its Meanings. Farnham: Ashgate Publishing. 376 pages. ISBN: 978-0-7546-6637-0 (hard cover).

by Roman I. Shiyan (Univ. of Alberta)


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This collection of twenty-three essays represents an important step toward the further affirmation of material culture studies. It makes significant progress in developing this field's conceptual framework and equally advances specific areas of study within this field. It also has the potential to benefit other fields greatly and is a 'must read' for students of medieval and early-modern history and culture.

The volume makes a strong case for the materiality of everyday objects becoming a focal point in research on pre-modern culture. The essays emerged from a collaborative interdisciplinary initiative of "dialogue and discussion about everyday objects and medieval and early modern materiality" prior to and at the Everyday Objects conference, held at the University of Birmingham's Shakespeare Institute (summer 2007).

As stated in the introduction, "the impetus for that conference was a desire to discover the range of work currently being undertaken on medieval and early modern material culture across the humanities disciplines and beyond, and to see what might happen when archeologists, art historians, social and cultural historians, literary scholars, museum curators and conservators came together" to present their research (2). Indeed, this collection can be viewed as a successful attempt to further develop the field of material culture studies.

Among the most pressing needs faced by scholars in this area of research was the demand for a multi-disciplinary methodological paradigm, which could offer "an integrated and well-rounded approach to the study of material culture," somewhat similar to what had been done within visual culture studies (10-11). While the latter field is concerned primarily with the visual, and not the material, aspects of objects, it can serve as a methodological template for material culture studies by the way of "helping to understand the operation of non-textual forms of communication and the nature of experience in the encounter between people and things", and offering a "particularly useful framework for understanding the meanings and associations" of artefacts in the context of specific periods and cultures (11-12).


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September 25, 2011

Museums and Maori

Haidy Geismar, NYU

Conal McCarthy, 2011. Museums and Maori: Heritage Professionals, Indigenous Collections, Current Practice. Te Papa Press/Left Coast Press

Museums and Maori follows on the heels of McCarthy's previous book, Exhibiting Maori, which traced the history of indigenous museum collecting, collections and display in Aoteaora New Zealand. This second book is more of a primer for contemporary practitioners and details the policy and practical environment in New Zealand for dealing with Maori collections and Maori people in Museum. Tracing the legacy of the famous Te Maori exhibition, the implementation and constitution of ideas about biculturalism and the complicity of museums in the forging of a bicultural national identity in the 1980s and 1990s, the book is an important resource for those interested in understanding a national museum culture from the vantage point of many different kinds of institution, and the intersection of policy and practice in them. Each chapter is grounded in case-studies that evaluate the history and practice of a wide array of different museums from the National Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa to smaller regional museums such as the Gisborne Museum or the Rotorua Museum. It is refreshing to hear the voices of curators and other museum practitioners whose options are often muted within museological studies.

For readers less knowledgable about New Zealand, the book provides a succinct overview of national and local policies and practices and an overview of a critical and emergent national museum studies that has been examining these museological issues in the context of national debates about culture, identity and indigeneity for some time.

There is however something lacking in the book - a level of critical analysis and a comparative effort (both within New Zealand and internationally) that makes it less useful in terms of building up a critical picture of the role of museums, and of museology, in national debates around indigenous sovereignty, in broad practices of collections management and care, and in issues of museum accountability, not only for source communities but for many different constituents. At times the book feels as though it is talking to a relatively narrow audience (those interested in or familiar with New Zealand, or people currently working with New Zealand museums). A chapter connecting some of these issues to an international framework would have been helpful for other kinds of reader to recognize the strengths and idiosyncrasies of New Zealand and Maori museologies and the ways in which these might (or might not) be used as templates for other settler-colonies or other indigenous groups.

In turn, I would have relished reading about more of the poetics of contemporary museum practice in New Zealand - the experiences, tensions, creative practices, artwork, and other happenings, that embody the relationship between Maori people and museums. Exhibitions such as Ko Tawa at the Auckland Museum, which also travelled around the country to smaller museums, instantiate not only a particular, and inspiring, museological stance but a particular way of doing research and aestheticising ideas about cultural property. More information about these kinds of projects as well as about the institutional frameworks that surround them would have brought more life into the sometimes dry discussion.

In all, Museums and Maori is a great resource for those seeking to map national museum cultures and understand how they are implemented in diverse settings. It provides a comprehensive summary of the literature around Maori and Museums that will be very useful for research scholars and activists working in museum studies, museum anthropology, colonial history and the politics of representation.

August 17, 2011

AT THE BOTTOM OF HANDBAGS AND THE BACK OF DRAWERS

Daniel Miller, UCL

I just wanted to point out a couple of books of interest to material culture studies that otherwise might be missed. The reason they might not appear on the radar is that the in one case they come from a more literary or humanities perspective and THE other from a kind of more positivist sociology than we usually address. But both of them are helpful since even for a perspective such as material culture which prides itself on looking closely at otherwise disregarded aspects of the everyday material world these two books delve impressively deeply and excavate stuff from the deepest levels of ubiquity for our contemplation.

The first is Paraphernalia by Steven Connor (London: Profile Books 2011). The author is Professor of Modern Literature and Theory at Birkbeck College and clearly given to writing about themes he regards as quirky and illuminating from below. His academic muse seems to be the French philosopher Michael Serres about whom he has also written extensively.

The delight of Paraphernalia is it is really a kind of literary equivalent of tipping out a person’s handbag or the back of their desk drawer and contemplating what we find there, drawing significance from this of detritus of daily life. The subtitle is the curious life of magical things. There are 18 chapters which include keys, combs, buttons, batteries, pins, rubber bands, sticky tapes, sweets and wires. I think this list makes the point pretty well. Very much in the spirit of material culture studies, although I don’t think the author is particular aware of such studies, his job is to focus down on that which by virtue of its ubiquity and taken for granted nature remains largely out of focus. There are two main resources he brings to bear on his quest. One is simply to recover the history of the thing which because the object has been disregarded has also been disregarded. The other is to locate literary references to the objects in question which give insights and demonstrate its metaphorical reach or presence that might otherwise have been missed.

One of the significant points of linkage between us and this class of objects is the practice of fidgeting, which he describes at one point (page 81) as playing with ourselves at a distance. Possibly an unfortunate turn of phrase, but if you refuse the other allusion you can see what he means. For most of us there are times when to fidget is very much a necessity more as a calming experience. There is some kind of reassurance given by the very materiality of the thing and the way we test it, measure it, find out what we can and cannot do with it, often bending and stretching it to breakage that clearly helps us confirm our relationship to the material world in a particular way. He describes this attribute of such things as magical. Again I am not happy with the choice of word. I finished the book thinking there could and should be a more anthropological and theoretical version of this study, less psychological and less literary that advances thinking in material culture studies. But what would thereby by inevitably a rather disenchanting study would also lose most of what is beneficial about the book in question. Which is its precisely its ability to enchant, to let us wander through this literary world in rapt contemplation that at least for me was sufficiently entrancing as a reading experience that for a change I was too engaged to actually fidget with anything at all.

Now if you think that Connor gets us as deep into the archaeology of the handbag as we are ever likely to go you would be wrong. Since the second book that is Islands of Privacy by Christena Nippert-Eng (University of Chicago Press 2010) contains six pages which do nothing but list the precise contents of some 48 purses and wallets (101-7). This is a book I was much looking forward to since her earlier study of the interrelationship between the material culture of home and in the workplace is one I have long used for teaching. Again she has picked a hugely important theme that has been neglected from a material culture perspective, which is how precisely do people in our contemporary world create and guard their privacy. So in the chapter entirely devoted to purses and wallets what she is primarily concerned with is which may be regarded as of the public domain and which the private, also how these are used to craft identity. Another chapter which I found of considerable interest is concerned with cell phones and e-mails and the new domains which both threaten privacy but also provide new niches. A third chapter on doorbells and windows help cement this impression of the virtues of giving attention to the grounding of these technologies of privacy guarding in this case the material order of space.

I would have criticisms of this book. It is actually a rather undisciplined publication with far too much direct reporting from her 74 interviews, Edited into a quarter of its present size it could have made its points more incisively and successfully instead lapsing into a kind of positivist collection of things and quotations. But as such I found it helpful to see the kinds of material culture studies I am more familiar with thereby bookmarked by the more literary presence of Connor on the one hand and the sociology of Nippert-Eng at the other end. Between them they make a strong argument for a material culture study of these same objects of everyday paraphernalia but perhaps chartering a third course between these two.

June 22, 2011

Music, Media and Adolescent Sexuality

Marcia A. Forbes (2010) Music, Media and Adolescent Sexuality in Jamaica. Arawak Publications: Kingston, Jamaica.

Reviewed by Elsa A. Leo-Rhynie CD, PhD (Univ. of West Indies)

The information explosion of the late 20th century coincided with a technology revolution and heralded a new century in which the world’s population is bombarded by messages of all sorts, through a variety of media. These messages are powerful because of the creative new media technologies carrying them and the appeal they have to individuals in different demographic categories based on factors such as age, gender and social class.

Marcia Forbes, in her very comprehensive investigation, has targeted messages in music videos which communicate with their audience in visual as well as auditory modes. The particular audience she has selected to explore is Jamaican adolescents of both sexes, and her focus is on the sexual feelings, opinions, attitudes and behaviour which are associated with their exposure to music videos. The research which was conducted for a doctoral degree was carried out with the necessary academic rigour, and is methodologically sound. The result is a publication which will be of value to the entire academic community and which should be required reading for students pursuing a variety of university courses, but certainly those in education, sociology and media. It should also be appealing to many audiences – the curious adolescent, the caring parent, the conscientious educator, the committed media practitioner, the dedicated social worker and the concerned citizen as well as policy makers who should find this book invaluable as a reference point in the design of educational and developmental programmes for children and youth.

The author, noting that adolescents “….voraciously consumed the messages” contained in music videos which feature expletives, partial nudity and sexual content which could be described as “soft porn”, skillfully probed the views of her sample of 543 Jamaican youth, ages 10 to 18 years. She used focus groups and interviews in both urban and rural centres across Jamaica in order to determine adolescents’ ‘consumption’ of (number of hours spent watching) music videos as well as various outcomes from this consumption. The data collected are rich and have been analyzed and presented in chapters, each of which has been carefully constructed to address the major concerns of this research investigation.

One of the most interesting chapters of the book contains the testimonies of the adolescents “In their own Words” (the author provides translations where the spoken words in Jamaican patois may be difficult to understand). It is here that the reader is able to appreciate the textured nature of the response which such music messages generate and the behavioural implications. The videos do not merely provide models of dance for the adolescents, but also dictate fashion, provide “new norms” for male/female sexual relationships, inform gender interactions and encourage the persistence of patriarchy. The chapter includes interesting opinions from the sample to the explicit sexual content and “slackness” in the lyrics and images to which they are exposed.

The investigation also explores the role of family and the church in the consumption of music videos by adolescents. Family restrictions and the teachings of the church do seem to moderate this consumption to some extent, but the influence does not seem to be significant and is greatest in younger adolescents. This is troubling as the findings point to heavy consumption of music videos being associated with risky sexual behaviour, permissive attitudes re multiple sex partners, and an inability to effectively differentiate between reality and fantasy in what is portrayed. Of interest also is the section in which adolescents report that music videos stimulate their sexual desire, and the effects of such stimulation.

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June 6, 2011

Moving Images

Haidy Geismar, NYU

This posting is the "official book launch" of my co-authored (with Dr. Anita Herle) book, Moving Images: John Layard, Fieldwork and Photography on Malakula since 1914, just out with Crawford House Publishing (in Australia and New Zealand) and Hawaii University Press (rest of world).

To celebrate the launch of the book, University of Hawaii Press has generously allowed me to make a voucher available to Material World Readers. You can download the order form here. Download file

When I first went to Vanuatu in 2000 to do research at the Vanuatu Cultural Centre, I took with me a whole bunch of historic photographs, and photographs of object, collected by Cambridge anthropologists for the Cambridge Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. During this time, I spent a couple of months on the small island of Vao, in North East Malakula, working on traditional copyright issues with local carvers, and quickly found that there was a local obsession with the hefty anthropological monograph Stone Men of Malakula, by John Layard.

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A Photocopy of Stone Men of Malekula on Vao, made by Vianney Atpatun of Vao island.

One of the things I was asked to do during this trip was translate the 1000 page book into Bislama - a process that made it significantly longer, and was very frustrating for all of us. This piqued my interest and sparked a research project that was to continue for the next 6 years. I'm not alone, most of my colleagues working in Vanuatu have engaged in depth with Layard's work and he, along with Speiser, Deacon and Codrington, is part of the corpus of ethnography we, and the people we work with, return to over and over again.

John Layard has recently been rediscovered as a kind of dysfunctional founding father of modern British social anthropology. A student of W.H.R Rivers at Cambridge, he travelled with Rivers to the New Hebrides in 1914. Enthralled by his charismatic supervisor, Layard was folorn when Rivers left him alone on the Small Island of Atchin and went off to do survey work around the archipelago. In many ways Layard was forced into undertaking one of the earliest forms of participatory, long-term fieldwork (he corresponded from the field with Malinowski who was just beginning his work in New Guinea, and who recounted how excited he was about using River's genealogical method). Layard was not however completely unprepared (and had obviously been given some training in methods at Cambridge, and we discuss early photographic methods and early visual anthropology in the book). Alongside developing Rivers' genealogical method, Layard took over 400 photographs, learnt the language of Atchin and Vao, made an object collection for the Cambridge Museum. He stayed on Atchin for nearly ten months (excluding an interlude in Sydney where he tried, and failed, to enlist in the Great War, and a brief period recovering from Malaria on Norfolk Island where he met up with Rivers who was on his way back to Cambridge). His fieldnotes, now held in the Mandeville Library at UCSD (link to the collection here), are an inspiration to any burgeoning fieldworker. Despite his own self-deprecating account (in his unpublished autobiography entitled "History of a Failure") Layard developed an amazing system of recording and crossreferencing his notes in the field. Stone Men of Malakula is truly encyclopedic (hence its interest to Small Islanders in the present day, more of which in a minute).

Layard made friends and was pretty involved in local life - but found fieldwork psychologically taxing (and unlike many others, was candid about this in his accounts). Layard came back to Cambridge in 1915 and promptly had a rather dramatic nervous breakdown (complete with a final rupture from Rivers in a bed and breakfast in scotland, near the Craiglockhart sanitorium where Rivers was treating WW1 Soldiers such as Siegfried Sassoon for shellshock). After several years bedridden, and doing very little, Layard had a dramatic encounter with psychoanalysis that led him to study in Europe (for more colourful stories about his time in Berlin and Zurich, his friendship with Auden and Isherwood, and his relationship with his analyst Jung, email me, read some of my other publications, go to the source in San Diego, or get Moving Images).

To cut to the chase, Layard abandoned anthropology for psychoanalysis, although he always maintained an interest in the disciplne and until he fell out with Evans Pritchard was peripherally on the scene of Oxford anthropology when he lived in Oxford as a practising psychoanalyst. Stone Men of Malekula was eventually published in 1942, earning him his long awaited doctorate.

Back to Vanuatu where Layard's fieldnotes and photographs continued to circulate, brought into the country by various generations of anthropologists who used them as trigger points for research, and as tools for cultural revitalization. I returned three times, in 2003, 2006, and 2009 to the Small Islands with the entire corpus of layard's images, and eventually with their captions and fieldnotes which I discovered in the San Diego archives, and then with my book manuscript. I was able to work with the images in conjunction of a wide variety of contextual information, the references points of kastom, christianity and development; the textual authority of labels and captions in Layard's own hand, and my own analytic frame. All of which became points of discussion during fieldwork with the images. I also took an extensive set of my own images, co-authored by my friends in the Small Islands (and discuss this extensively in my chapter). For contemporary ni-Vanuatu these images are not only ethnographic documents, they are crucial forms of evidence of ancestral presence, tools in legal disputes about land rights, sources of inspiration for the revitalization of contemporary ritual and artistic practice. They are contentiously used in local competition for access to resources and by dance groups recreating ritual practices long discouraged by the Catholic and Seventh Day Adventist missionaries that based themselves in the island communities of Vao, Atchin. They are also highly reflexive, providing people for a way to negotiate with the practice of fieldwork and with anthropologists themselves...to make sense of, and negotiate with, what we do.

Moving Images traces the social life of these photographs. We start (in a chapter by Cambridge curator Anita Herle) with the entangled histories of photography and anthropology, outlining the context that sent Layard into the field, what happened to the images when copy prints were sent back to the Cambridge Museum, and how Layard himself was starkly aware of the way in which photographs can be embodiments of subjective experience as well as objects of scientific knowledge production. Anita Herle looks in depth at the culture of British social anthropology, and its nascent methodology and compares Layard's work to that of his contemporaries including Haddon, Malinowski and Landtmann.

We then present a previously unpublished essay by Layard himself musing on the effects of "the coming of the white man on Atchin", on the colonial moment that was so often excised from the accounts of early anthropologists. Layard himself never referred, in print, to the trader and missionaries that lived with him on Atchin during his stay.

A chapter by Kirk Huffman, a former doctoral student at Cambridge and the first curator of the newly independent Vanuatu Cultural Centre, recounts how Layard's photographs were drawn into the cultural activism and revivification of kastom in the run up to Vanuatu's independence in 1980. Huffman's own photographs from the early days of independence emphasise the crucial role of photography (and 1970s anthropology) in the constitution of a national traditional culture in Vanuatu. Huffman remains honorary curator of the VCC and has been influential in helping to construct a workable and viable model of culture, now being extended into projects such as traditional economic and development.

Finally, my own chapter recounts the resonance and significance of these "visual histories" in the present day context of Vanuatu. I talk about the excavation of information using photographs, the ways in which photographs are embedded into different structures of knowledge and in turn create those structures, and talk about the phenomenology of looking at, and using, photographs not only to do research but to talk about the past.

Interspersed throughout these chapters are photo essays which deal with different themes pertaining to fieldwork and photography: Layard's interlocuters, his interest in the megalithic culture of the small islands, the way in which ritual and temporality may be evoked in photographic series, the sensuous nature of photography and of the photographic process.

Speaking now from a personal vantage point - Alongside all of this analytic richness, archival research and fieldwork, I think that the best thing about this book is the way that the form mirrors the content. It's a book about the collaborative nature of photography and fieldwork, from a very early period in anthropology to the present day. The book itself was produced collaboratively, not only between its official authors, myself, Anita Herle, Layard and Kirk Huffman, but also was written in collaboration with people in Vanuatu from many communities. We published a second "edition" of the book, with over 200 images, their captions translated into Bislama and an introduction in Bislama by Numa Fred Longga, curator of the MAlakula Cultural Centre and my principle partner in research in Vanuatu. 1000 copies were printed and circulated for free throughout the Small Islands and to schools and libraries throughout Vanuatu. (Thanks to the British Museum Melanesia Project, the Bergen Pacific Studies Group, the ASAO Grant to return Indigenous Knowledge to Pacific Island Communities. the Cambridge Museum and NYU for supporting this community volume).

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The cover of our community volume

The process of fieldwork, of returning over and over to a community with this collection of images, and of continuing to take photographs during this process, enabled the Small Islanders I worked with to both author and edit the book - they commented on early drafts and made it very clear what they wanted out of the small volume - to the extent that many photographs are actually not included. Given the lengthy time of research we were able to accommodate their wishes, and demands. I've written several articles about the process of this research, and both the more problematic aspects of bringing important pieces of 'evidence" back to communities and the ethical issues of accessibility and archival accountability (you can download some of these here) .

Thanks to the British Academy and the Economic and Social Research Council. To CUMAA and NYU for supporting the project over many years.

Thanks to the communities of Vao and Atchin - especially the Maltaus family, Chief Jean Mal Varu and his family, to Vianney Atpatun, Cesar Sami and George Rowsy, and especially to Numa Fred, Chief Terry. Thanks Kirk, Anita and Kathy Creely and the crew at the Mandeville Library. Thanks to Ryan Schram for compiling our bibliography of Layard's work. Thanks to Richard Layard to granting us access and copyrights to his father's work. Thanks to Elizabeth Edwards, Jeremy Macclancy, Chris Wright, Chris Pinney and Lissant Bolton for being great readers.

May 14, 2011

Seeing through Rocks

A Culture of Stone: Inka Perspectives on Rock, Carolyn Dean, 2010, Duke University Press

Sandra Rozental, New York University

Having written extensively on Andean colonial art, namely on the celebrations of Corpus Christi in colonial Cuzco (1999), art historian Carolyn Dean has now shifted her attention to the stony traces of a prior chapter in the city’s history. The book posits that ancient rocks and pre-Hispanic stone buildings reveal Inka beliefs and practices around and about stones as powerful, transmutable, potentially animate and sentient beings. Dean is critical of art history as a discipline’s blind eye when it comes to Inka masonry, arguing that her colleagues had until now favored representational forms, and had, therefore, been reluctant to study Inka architecture as art, having focused rather on technological processes of crafting and moving colossal masses. For the author, scholars separated Inka carved stones from other aspects of Inka culture “in very un-Inka ways” (16). In a move that places this work very much in dialogue with recent studies on material culture, Dean argues that it is precisely because Inka stonework contains meaning in its very materiality— rather than in its form—that it is fertile ground for revealing pre-Hispanic Inka epistemologies and ways of seeing.

A Culture of Stone is beautifully written, with four chapters focusing on the various relationships between peoples within the Inka empire and stone objects. The first chapter looks at how rocks became agents of social life as “remembered-rocks” performing memory-work that made specific moments and persons from the past present during Inka times. Using Guaman Poma’s writings, as well as the renditions of other colonial chroniclers, Dean reveals these “presentational stones” as wawqi (petrified brothers), wank’a (petrified owners of places), saywa (territorial markers), puruawqa (petrified warriors), sayk’uska (recalcitrant rocks refusing to be moved from specific locations), sukanka (pillars representing time itself), as well as echo stones and apachita (rock piles marking places). Dean shows us tangible ways to recognize these extraordinary rocks through visual cues such as framing, distancing, contouring and carving.

In Chapter 2, she analyzes the reciprocity between rocks and landscape, showing how stone architecture crystallized the Inkas’ civilizing mission over nature, especially through terracing and “nibbled masonry.” As Dean expresses: “While Inka walls are not texts, they can and do contain philosophical statements about how the Inka made their way—not in or through the world, but of it” (85).

Chapter 3 focuses on rocks as imperialist instruments, as stones established Inka ownership over territory throughout the Inka empire. The author uses examples of sayk’uska or recalcitrant rocks who refused to move to analyze Inka power not as absolute, but rather as a complex system of negotiation and rule: abandoned stones made the Inka’s relationship with the numinous quality of their building materials concrete, while also displaying the power of the State over nature. The chapter ends with a discussion on stone seats that are, for Dean, the most immediate examples of how rocks and state power were intricately connected in Inka times.

In the last chapter of the book, “Rock in Ruins,” Dean explores the production of Inka ruins over time, focusing on the colonial project to transform Inka stones into traces imbued with mystery, rather than products of a powerful State. She then borrows anthropologist Quetzil Castañeda’s insights on pre-Hispanic ruins in Mexico to discuss how Inka rocks have since been “ventriloquized” by a variety of actors including government authorities, tourists and new-age pilgrims.

Amidst stunning images of Inka sites and monuments, and poetic descriptions of numinous waka, petrified rulers, transubstantiations of stony essences, and stories of lithic personhood, Dean eloquently builds a new approach to ancient stones that pointedly critiques traditional art historical scholarship. Dean cites anthropological studies such as Alfred Gell’s work on “anicons” as part of her theoretical framework, but it seems that her questions and arguments are related to a larger body of literature on artifacts as animate within anthropology, from Emile Durkheim to Marcel Mauss’ theories of totems and objects in exchange, to scholarship about fetishes, and more recent work by a new wave of material culture studies in both the United States and United Kingdom.

In fact, Dean’s book is an interesting interlocutor for work like Christopher Tilley’s The Materiality of Stone (2004) where, given the lack of historical sources like the ones Dean was able to consult on the societies who produced her objects of study, and inspired by Merleau Ponty’s phenomenological approach, the author interpellates prehistoric monuments in European landscapes through bodily experience. Anthropological studies on material culture like Tilley’s echo Dean’s critiques of traditional art history’s understandings of objects. As a study of ancient rocks, their material texture, location and relationship to other features in the landscape, as well as their social agency during Inka times, A Culture of Stone is a welcome intervention and will be of interest to students of material worlds, anthropologists, archaeologists, as well as scholars of Peru and Latin America.

References

Dean, C. 1999. Inka Bodies and the Body of Christ: Corpus Christi in Colonial Cuzco, Peru. Durham: Duke Univ. Press.

Tilley, C. 2004. The Materiality of Stone: Explorations in Landscape and Phenomenology. Oxford: Berg.

Note: This essay is a version of the author's review of Carolyn Dean’s A Culture of Stone: Inka Perspectives on Rock, in the Journal of Latin American and Caribbean Anthropology (forthcoming)

March 17, 2011

‘On the Face of it?’ Cosmopolitanism and Consumption

By David Thompson
The University of Sydney, Australia

How do cosmopolitanism and consumption fit in together? Perhaps not very well, if theorists such as Craig Calhoun and Ulf Hannerz are to be believed. They both see consumption as superficial, at best a peripheral concern to something that is supposed to be a moral global project. Calhoun complains that consumption provides “easy faces” of cosmopolitanism that have little or nothing to do with its supposedly real task of building an international civil society (2002: 105). Hannerz (2004: 71) views consumption as part of a “cosmopolitanism with a happy face” that is concerned more with the aesthetics of cultural difference than with any genuine attempt at a sense of global civic responsibility. While cosmopolitanism may still have a slippery meaning, it seems to have preserved Kant’s ideas about the superficiality of the material world rather well.

Yet what if consumption is not just a ‘face’ of cosmopolitanism, but plays a much more profound role? Perhaps, it might be healthier to ditch the face metaphors. On the face of it, associating cosmopolitanism with consumption is misleading because it suggests a global social integrity that just isn’t there. Then again, the global circulation of commodities provides many people with an influx of objects that make this abstract idea visible. If we accept the importance of commodities in imagining a world from the narrow specifics of our own lives, then we also have to acknowledge that this consumption is also caught up in the politics of local social relations and spaces. Instead of any Kantian utopia, we are left with a cosmopolitanism that lives in sites of inequality and exclusion. In these places consumption isn’t a glossy veneer or clever marketing; it is a way of negotiating the terrain of inequality and difference.

For example, in Steven Gregory’s (2007) ethnography of Boca Chica, a tourist town in the Dominican Republic, he describes how an established order which separates cosmopolitan tourists from locals is perceived and contested. Boca Chica is starkly divided between its highly regulated and policed zona turística (tourist zone) around the beach and the shantytowns and poor districts in the surrounding hills that comprise the cominudad (community). While most local Dominicans are restricted from the zona turística, young men called fisgones regularly cross the established social and spatial boundaries between them. Fisgones manage to turn the tourist industry to their advantage by working informally as brokers of goods and services to tourists, from tours to prostitutes. Yet to access the tourist trade and resorts they must become presentable as cultural intermediaries. To facilitate this, they take on the objects and consumer language of a readily translatable, generic Caribbean identity. Bunny, for instance, is a fisgón described by Gregory as “a tall man with shoulder-length dreadlocks who had taken his nickname from the Jamaican reggae great Bunny Wailer” (2007: 45), cultivating a Rastafarian image to appeal to foreigners. Similarly, Richard, the son of Haitian migrants, presents a fictive history of an upbringing in Harlem which, supported by his use of language and fashion, allows him to establish a network of African American clients who travel to the town and use his services.

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Hip hop aesthetics in the Dominican Republic. Photo courtesy of Erin Taylor.

This image of consumption is what the formal tourism establishments seek to repress. The hybridity represented by fisgones such as Bunny and Richard is a threat to the carefully cultivated folkloric face generated from within resorts and hotels that portrays Boca Chica locals and Dominicans more generally as rural, traditional and above all parochial. As Gregory explains,

This unruly hybridity risks disrupting the binary oppositions undergirding the industry’s symbolic economy – between “guests” and “hosts,” between subjects and objects of consumption, and between cosmopolitan modernity and the static charm of a fantasized native culture, in this case, that of the “fishing village”. (2007: 55)

While Bunny and Richard both use “global” commodities to communicate across cultures and negotiate between local and global scales, Dominicans appropriating the commodities and aesthetics of American hip hop and Jamaican reggae in order to appeal to American and European tourists is not something recognisable as global in its reach. Yet across the world images self-consciously proclaimed as global are very often conspicuously singular. In Patricia Márquez’s (1999) ethnography of street youths in the Sabana Grande boulevard in Caracas, for instance, she identifies different types of (male) teenagers who left the shantytowns surrounding the city to live along the commercial strip. These are woperós, obsessed with baggy pants, boots and electro music; monos, otherwise known as jordans, with a penchant for Chicago Bulls shirts, Nike shoes, hip hop and reggae; and chupapegas (glue suckers), who constantly go hungry in order to spend their little money in video arcades along the boulevard hosting games from Japan and the US. As Márquez argues, these youths “with their Nintendo dreams and Nike shoes, experience life in the larger context of global and transnational processes” (1999: 220).

Each of these groups insert themselves into different global aesthetics as a means of gaining traction on local experience, whether such a move is pragmatic, such as for the fisgones, or ideological, as with the youths of the Sabana Grande boulevard. All of these identities are built and sustained through different forms of globalisation of the imagination, as Arjun Appadurai (2005) would call it. Yet not only do these identities self-consciously clash (the woperós, monos and chupapegas are in constant conflict), they also fly in the face of the benign images that we conjure up to represent a cosmopolitan or global society.

Faced with these conflicting ideas of the global, Kant’s universal cosmopolitanism breaks down into the messy business of local spaces and social relations. Calhoun rightly points out that so much of cosmopolitanism is skewed by academics’ own privileged position as “frequent travellers” whose perceptions of the world are determined by the mobility few have access to in a deeply unequal world (2002). However, just because their/our self-purported cosmopolitanism is based from a position of privilege, this does not mean that a relationship with the global is entirely reserved for the wealthy jetsetters of the world. Gregory’s and Márquez’s ethnographies point to cosmopolitanisms that exist within, rather than in spite of, the stark inequalities that exist along different scales even as these inequalities define how the world emerges in everyday life. While cosmopolitanism can and does slip into utopian thinking, it can also reveal how the world as a concept is materialised even outside of the elite transnational circuits that are supposedly characteristic of it. Perhaps, then, cosmopolitan consumption is not a superficial “face” but a means of responding to and forming diverse relationships with a world made material.

References

Appadurai, Arjun. 2005. Grassroots Globalization and the Research Imagination. In Globalization, edited by A. Appadurai. Durham: Duke Univ. Press, pp.1-21.

Calhoun, Craig. 2002. The Class Consciousness of Frequent Travellers: Towards a Critique of Actually Existing Cosmopolitanism. In Conceiving Cosmopolitanism: Theory, Context, and Practice, edited by R. Cohen and S. Vertovec. Oxford: Univ. Press, pp.86-109.

Gregory, Steven. 2007. The Devil Behind the Mirror: Globalization and Politics in the Dominican Republic. Berkeley: Univ. of California Press, pp.69-85.

Hannerz, Ulf. 2004. Cosmopolitanism. In A Companion to the Anthropology of Politics, edited by D. Nugent and J. Vincent. Oxford: Blackwell Publishers.

Márquez, Patricia. 1999. The Street is my Home: Youth and Violence in Caracas. Palo Alto: Stanford Univ. Press.

March 12, 2011

First Monday

First Monday is a peer reviewed journal on the internet, about the internet, and an initiative of University of Illinois Library. They publish some interesting research for the readers of this site, including this piece on digital materiality, by Paul M. Leonardi, and this on digital objects, by Kallinikos, Aaltonen and Marton.

Defini

December 17, 2010

Book review link: The Craft Reader

In the October 11, 2010 issue of The Nation, the magazine's art critic Barry Schwabsky (recent and worthy successor to Arthur Danto) provides a thought-provoking review of the book "The Craft Reader" (Glenn Adamson, ed. Berg, 2009), which itself takes a particularly expansive, interdisciplinary, and eclectic approach--materially, topically, and theoretically--to craft. Recently, he notes, a number of institutions have removed the term "craft" from their names, while corners of the fine art world have witnessed a return of interest in craftsmanship and the laboriousness of the handmade after generations of conceptual or virtual (now often digital) artworks. (Benjamin hovers in the air but so does Marx, among other obvious geists). Adamson is the head of graduate studies and deputy head of research at London's Victoria and Albert Museum. The volume is geared not only to presenting a history of the heavily-policed boundaries between the craft object, the industrial object, and the art object, but also to providing fodder for challenging such boundaries today--in theory as well as in practice (practice being a key concept in the book's cross-cultural take on craft production).

Into this already promising mix, Schwabsky drops (but does not develop) his own provocative notion of the "good-enough object" (which riffs on the "good-enough mother" from psychiatrist D.W. Winnicott, who thought a lot about objects). He suggests that we shift our analytical focus away from aesthetic regimes of cultural and financial value that seek to identify ideal terms of recognition and inclusion, and toward an approach to objects that highlights the kind of work that they do--and that they allow people to do as makers and consumers and users of them--as a practical, spontaneous matter. Although he doesn't come and out say it as such, Schwabsky advocates a material culture approach to handmade objects and the various kinds of sociocultural, economic, and political fields through which they circulate, whether we call them craft, design, art, or otherwise.

December 10, 2010

Digital Kvelling

Danny Miller, UCL

Bevan. A. and Wengrow. D. 2010. Cultures of Commodity Branding. Walnut Creek: Left Coast Press.

Clarke, A. 2010. Design Anthropology. Berlin: Springer Verlag.

Daniels, I. 2010. The Japanese House. Oxford: Berg.

Norris. L. 2010. Recycling Indian Clothing. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

The term is probably better known in New York than London, but basically Kvelling is a Yiddish expression for taking pride in the achievement of others, e.g. one’s children. But I don’t see why this can’t extend to students and colleagues. Basically it means that I am using this posting to note four major new publications in Material Culture Studies, but at the same time admitting to a personal interest/pride in all of them.

First a quite superb book The Japanese House by Inge Daniels. Although almost all readers will first be entranced by the excellent photographs taken by Susan Andrews, and the way they have been integrated into the book as a whole to make the entire thing an aesthetic delight, a brief read of any given section of this work will soon inform the reader that this is NOT a coffee table book. Even to call this a work of ethnography would be to diminish the sense of authority it carries. This is clearly someone who had indeed worked as an ethnographer in Japan but more than that spent many years there covering several projects so that the authors knowledge on the history, the wider sociology and popular culture of Japan are as significant as the ethnographic experiences that are essential to her apprehension of something that is in Japan particularly private and normally inaccessible. One reason why there was previously almost no work on this topic was that it was just so hard for an outside to gain access. But irrespective of where this is based, as someone who has been working on issues of homes and home interiors for a very considerable time I am really not sure I have ever come across a better text on the material culture of the home. Without pretention or obfuscation this book manages to convey the kind of holism that is latent in material culture studies and which makes a section on cosmology and the spirits somehow seamlessly joined to issues of political economy, gender, and basic material concerns such as storage and mess. There is a real sense of how the private worlds of the Japanese family are articulated by moving through space, both within the home and outside. The icing on this case lies in a set of charming and fascinating additional essays on topics such as the choreography of domestic slippers, street gardens, alcoves and a dolls festival. I think this is going to grow into one of my all time favourite books in material culture

I am going to be equally effusive about Recyling Indian Clothing by Lucy Norris, this time a colleague rather than a student. This too is testimony to the way contemporary material culture studies are building from fine ethnographic research to encompass a depth and breadth of engagement that is outstanding. While there exists a fine text on clothing and recycling in Saialua by Karen Tranberg Hansen, that covers the kind of international trade we now expect in regard to this topic. Norris has produced a very different and perhaps rather less expected work, with the focus rather more on the internal exchanges and processes within India itself rather than the transnational aspect. Again as in so much of the best material culture work there is no fear of engaging with highly intimate worlds such as the contents of the wardrobe in considerable detail. In common with Daniels we see a key link between a `gifting economy’ which then leads to a surplus of stuff. Between them they thereby create an important complement to the normal linkage made between surplus goods and commodity markets. There is also a very strong sense of cosmological context that determines much of the activity by which things come to leave the person and the house, with a specific exchange relationship between clothing and kitchen utensils. This adds to the important topic of `ridding’ ie how things leave the house previously discussed by the geographer Nicky Gregson. Given the widespread interest in issues of sustainability and recycling there are probably few cases where what might be considered an indigenous system, that is not derived from green or external imperatives, but is integral to social structure and economic processes could be so fully documented and explicated. Again the topic really needed high quality photographic images and these certainly enhance the book.

Two important edited books complete the weeks treasure trove. Alison Clarke has edited a work on Design Anthropology that is remarkable in being really quite different from prior attempts to colonise this domain (which are pretty scarce in any case). This is a broad ranging work with contributions from designers, and historians to ethnographers and theorists. Some of the design issues are quite applied such as Gamman and Thorpe on crime prevention and Dankl on the needs of the elderly. UCL traditions of material culture ethnography is also well represented including Gavey on Ikea, Young on Aboriginal cars and Makovicky on hand made lace thongs an unusual item in that I assume their success is best measured in the brevity of time between being seen and being removed.

Finally it is rare to see such a successful instance of cross-over studies between archaeology and ethnography, (plus some additional history) as can be found in Cultures of Commodity Branding which follows from Wengrow’s path-breaking paper on branding in prehistory published in Current Anthropology. Alison Clarke has a strong presence here also, and a highlight is a section on fake brands with excellent papers by Magdelena Craciun and Rosana Pinheiro-Machado. Frustrating to see that this is only in hardback but at least get your library to order a copy.

October 29, 2010

Behind the Scenes of… Lines that Connect : Rethinking Pattern and Mind in the Pacific

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Graeme Were, UCL

The aim of this blog piece is to furnish Material World readers with a background to my latest book - Lines that Connect: Rethinking Pattern and Mind in the Pacific. Rather than raise any commentary about its merits or shortfalls (which I leave to someone else), I thought it would be interesting to discuss the publication in relation to my own intellectual background.

To begin then, the book is a kind of homage, on the one hand, to C P Snow’s Two Cultures; and on the other, to Owen Jones and his seminal text The Grammar of Ornament. These two works, unwittingly, seem to reflect tensions in my own abilities torn between the sciences and the arts. At secondary school, I possessed a strong interest in practical physics (we got to take Nuffield Physics ‘O’ level) and mathematics (again, applied). But my talents were also directed to painting and technical drawing [I remember once coming first at art, the winning painting a composition of my neighbours house].

Strangely, this split between the arts and the sciences followed me through to sixth-form college and then on to my first degree at Keele University where I took a Foundation Year (or FY) followed by a joint degree in social anthropology and mathematics. I was to be the first and only student ever to choose this combination. The structure of the degree programme at Keele was such that we had to take subsidiary courses to the main degree programme: I duly chose Astronomy – calculating crater sizes on the moon measuring shadows on lunar surfaces using photographs [for which I got a distinction and £10 book token]; and additional passes in Psychology [can’t remember what we did] and Philosophy [walking around with Existentialism & Humanism in my jacket pocket].

Some six years after graduating, this split would surface again when I took on a post at the Horniman Museum, working with ethnographic collections and exhibitions. There, I learnt practical skills of working with objects – handling, assessment, storage, and transportation – and exhibition design. I was involved with the re-display of the collections in the now, Africa Worlds and Centenary Gallery. It was during this period of employment that I first became acquainted with the kapkap – the clam- and turtle-shell breastplate famously represented in Melanesian museum collections. In particular, the symmetrical arrangement of designs carved into its surface reminded me of my mathematics classes; and so, when I returned to take up a Masters degree, the kapkap became the focus of my research thesis, and then a PhD…

This vignette of my arts and sciences education [the successes, of course] has tried to portray the tension I have felt accommodating two diverse intellectual disciplines. This, I believe, is a tension that runs throughout the Lines that Connect book. On the one hand, I try to analyse the patterns that are reproduced on the kapkap in the Pacific using mathematical analysis (something common amongst some anthropologists in the 1970s), while also thinking about their ideas and associations in the process of their articulation. The book itself treats pattern as a kind of meta-media, examining pattern’s mobility as it surfaces in various forms. It takes the reader through several areas of my work in the Pacific: from kapkap production and display, to Christianity and Baha’i faith in New Ireland (PNG), and on to pattern, mobility and transformation in the wider Pacific. Owen Jones’ work very much inspired the book as his engagement with pattern on Pacific ethnographic artefacts was situated very much in terms of his appreciation of their technical virtuosity and mindfulness rather than a negative view that later 19th century social evolutionary theorists attributed to such designs. And in retrospect, I suppose the book provides a good example of how the arts and sciences can be brought together to mutually reinforce one another, which C P Snow may be proud of.

The book is available on Amazon or directly through University Hawaii Press.


September 14, 2010

ALUMINIUM AND MATERIALISM

Danny Miller, UCL

Thud. The advent of Kindle and the iPad are making us re-consider the materiality of books but sometimes the only word to associate with the traditional form is thud. Thud is what you feel in the presence of certain 750 page hardbacks, when it is not just their weight but the impression that is made on your brain by their contents. A case in point is the book `Out of This Earth; East Indian Adivasis and the Aluminium Cartel by Felix Padel and Samarendra Das (Orient BlackSwan). The thud effect derives from a mixture of scholarship best translated as relentless documentation combined with passion best translated as relentless exposure.

Different people came into material culture studies through different routes. For many of my generation it was a close association with materialism and behind that with Marxism. A tradition which (sufficiently vulgarised) said that we cannot ignore the material foundations of the world, and the impact of the worlds materiality upon people. Much of my own earlier work was a systematic critique of the domination of this tradition with its bias towards production and failure to acknowledge or theorise consumption. Later on, when the pendulum swung the other way, there were attempts to create approaches such as the commodity chain that linked the study of production with consumption. But there is something bigger than this, that was forged out of that Marxist fire and takes shape within the spirit of an anthropological holism that wants to be comprehensive about the human impact of some material form. This is what drives anthropologists to write 750 pages of relentlessly documented work about all and every aspect of their subject. Because one of the most powerful legacies of this tradition that surely has to remain one of the key legs upon which the edifice of material culture stands is that of materialism as critique.

In this particular case I didn’t even mean to buy or read the book. I have a student living in Guyana and studying aluminium who asked me to find her a copy. I started reading it on the tube train back, and that’s when it went thud. It overwhelmed me with its indignation, its insistence upon the contemporary necessity of informed critique about the sometimes extraordinarily savage consequences of material culture.

Specifically this is a book about the implications of Aluminium as a material substance. It documents the ubiquitous presence of the metal, not just in our kitchens but equally in our armaments. We couldn’t fight a sausage these days without it, or cook one. It then documents the convolutions of the aluminium industry, in its terms the Cartel, and its political economy. Real political economy: that explains all those links between the companies and high finance in London and thence why British development aid, so far from being charitable to the impoverished, is largely charitable to the interests of this Cartel. Mostly the book is concerned with painstaking documentation of the impact upon the indigenous tribal peoples of the state of Odish (previously Orissa) in Eastern India. There are hopefully not too many places where our desire for specific materials can be directly linked to murder and death by starvation. But this is one of them. It is also an exemplifying case of unsustainable ecological destruction.

As anthropologists they delve into the social structure of the industry and the cosmology of the exploited. The holistic nature of anthropology here translated into the passion to produce a book that is comprehensive seems to be the only way we can ensure that it is impossible to escape from its conclusions - that the present system of political economy means that we derive these goods at these costs. I am not a revolutionary, I don’t think we have to overthrow `the system’ in order to prevent this, and I don’t want to wait around until someone works out a feasible alternative. Nor do I share the ascetic anti-consumption views of these authors. But I do think that we owe the preservation of our souls to the activists who insist on exposing the darkest recesses of our system and on galvanising action against those responsible. I often get accused of `claiming’ all sorts of studies for the perspective of material culture irrespective of the intentions of the authors. In this case I merely want to point out how hollow and heartless is this thing called material culture studies if it does not make claims to this kind of book.

August 23, 2010

Beginning with Breaking Up

Ilana Gershon (Dept. of Communication and Culture, Indiana Univ.)

In the United States, there is a lot of talk about how people are able to communicate and connect in new ways because of innovations in communicative technologies. So what happens when people start using these technologies built for connection for a purpose they weren’t designed for – disconnecting from people? To answer this question, I decided to interview people at my home institution about how they use new media when they are breaking up. This turned out to be a very productive starting point for asking questions about how people cobble together solutions to the social dilemmas new media can offer. For example, I was able to find out how wide a range of practices there are for finding out information about your ex-lover on Facebook that you might want to know, but don’t want to let your ex-lover know you want to know. Beginning with breaking up is a methodological starting point. I want to discuss some methodological implications of starting with breaking up when analyzing new media.

I quickly realized that participant observation would be impossible. No one was going to say in the middle of a breakup conversation: “Wait a minute, are we breaking up? Because if we are, I know this researcher who would like to observe and take notes.” Sometimes people would voluntarily send me the conversations in which they broke up with someone over IM or by texting. (And I should admit that I couldn’t always tell without interviewing them why this particular conversational snippet was The Breakup Conversation.) I had to ask people to talk about their breakups after many of their disentangling conversations were over. Almost everything I learned I found out by interviewing people face-to-face. And in these interviews, people would tell me breakup stories that they had clearly already told their friends. I was collecting well-rehearsed narratives.

Not only couldn’t I observe breakups, I also discovered I was not being told many stories about hooking up. I can think of only two accounts of hooking up, that is, accounts of people who would not claim to be in a relationship and yet were sleeping together occasionally. However, I know that people were hooking up all the time because of research my colleague Elizabeth Armstrong has conducted on IU undergraduates’ romantic lives. I think few people told me these stories because one of the benefits of hooking up is that while you might hook up, you never break up. Hooking up is understood to be ephemeral enough that you are not obligated to have a break up conversation. Instead, you can just let things drift apart when you want to stop sleeping with someone. So when I asked people if I could interview them about their breakups, they tended to assume that I was only talking about “real” romantic relationships. I don’t think that this seriously affected my analysis, but it is one of the methodological consequences of how I framed my research.

There were clear benefits to my starting point. By asking about breaking up, I learned a tremendous amount about how people used a wide range of communicative technologies. I also learned how they understood each medium in relationship to all the other media that they used. I don’t only know about how people at Indiana University used Facebook throughout the course of a break up, I also know about how they used texting, voicemail and any other medium. If I had asked people about their texting practices, I might not have gotten the same insight into how their understandings of one medium affected their understandings of all the other media they used, or refused to use. By starting with a social practice and not a medium, I was able to find out about people’s complex practices of remediation. That is, beginning with breaking up encouraged people to reflect on their media ecologies.


Ilana Gershon is an anthropologist who teaches in the Department of Communication and Culture at Indiana University. Her book, The Breakup 2.0: Disconnecting Over New Media, has just been published by Cornell University Press.

August 15, 2010

VISIBLY MUSLIM

Daniel Miller, UCL

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I wanted to draw attention of readers of this blog to Emma Tarlo’s new book Visibly Muslim as much because of the style as the content. But what impresses first about this book is the way it refuses to pander to any of the obvious academic bandwagons it could have ridden. It keeps its integrity as material culture by not trying to reduce itself to any glib politics or stance. It seems to me that Tarlo has tried from the outset to emphasise the two qualities that you would most need to forefront if you want to combat prejudice against hijab and niqab, which are those of creativity and humanism. I think in recognition that for many people there is an underlying assumption that these garments are the antithesis of creativity and intrinsically dehumanising.

How does she manage this? Well the first means is the style of writing. You don’t expect a book on this topic to be enjoyable, often quite fun, and celebratory. Most ethnographic fieldwork is based on the fieldworker getting to know relatively few people relatively well. But if you try and write in a way that honestly reflects this method you are inevitably accused of being anecdotal. While if you instead write at a level of generality that says the Nuer do this or Somalis in London do that, the authority of that generalisation is taken for granted. So one veil that is stripped away is that of conventional anthropological writing. Because this book people, in most cases, the key infomants as the natural nexus of contradictions and ambivalence. It starts with a chapter Biographies in Dress which includes named and known public figures. Recognisable individuals, who change their minds, who are not sure what they think. Some of them are fashion students angsting about what to wear as do most fashion students, only in this case in relation to hijab. So both Islam or hijab, come alive here within a maelstrom of varying interpretation and creativity. Things are tried out, more or less successfully. Much of the creativity is commercial, with chapters looking at material from the internet, and from various enterprising companies that develop sports hijab or trendy hijab. All of which puts this back into the realm of fashion studies as well as anthropology.

If there is one enduring image that I take from this book as a leitmotif then it is the image that objectifies the challenge of creating spiritual fashion; hijab that does not betray the spiritual by its aspiration to fashion and achieves a potential in fashion precisely because it aims to convey the spiritual. So apart from what it says about hijab, it is making the point that fashion itself can be spiritual, based on faith. This is hijab that tries to convey that what is beautiful is blessing. If the Koran can inspire fabulous elegance and beauty in calligraphy and mosques and mosaics, then why not also in clothing? That hiding mere flesh exposes the beauty of a searching spirit trying to come closer to god. In this book religion is not something to be embarrassed about, some old anachronism, nor is it regarded as conservative. This is very far from the kinds of duality assumed in religious as against secular worlds that seem to pervade the contemporary US for example. Religion here is cutting edge, trendy, even sexy, while remaining modest. Rather as in some fusion music, the sense is that this is quite an exciting moment to be a young London Muslim.

Which leads to a wider theoretical point though one only hinted at in this volume. Should we assume that fashion as creativity is best achieved only through pure freedom, or as expression of pure freedom as in post modernism. Fashion in hijab works with constraint, but that is typical of so much art that emerges at periods of enlightment in the tension between constraint and modernity, whether from the Greek Polis or the Renaissance.

Of course we cannot think about hijab without its extraordinary politics. If you forgive the pun the people who are the subjects of this work seem to get it in the neck from both sides. You would not expect countries like Britain and France in this day and age to go around banning clothing or telling people what they can and cannot wear, and yet that that is exactly what the French are about to do. Notwithstanding that the veil is central to Catholic tradition and ubiquitous in much `western’ art. But the problem has become that in the press and literature the hijab is reduced to this single dimension of its politicisation. And this itself becomes dehumanising, politics reducing people to tokens, to one side or the other. Which is why it is so valuable to have a book that takes an entirely different perspective.

This is also a book about London, where actually politics is anything but simple. A city whose mayors tend to be elected with a rather quirky, sometimes comic stance, that reflects British irony as much as governance., The characters in this book strike me as quintessential Londoners in that regard. It is politics, but its cosmopolitan, bright, often quite cheerful politics. It is not just Tarlo but the women she studied who clearly delight in taking something as unlikely as hijab and making of it something, young colourful and exciting. Part of the creative cosmopolitanism of urban life. Of course there are many other sides and dimensions to such questions. But by this focus on material culture Tarlo has made an unusual and unexpected contribution which indicates what a veil reveals rather than what it hides.

August 7, 2010

The Oxford Handbook of Material Culture

Haidy Geismar, NYU

The introduction to the Oxford Handbook of Material Culture, OUP 2010, can be read here. Titled, Material culture: a reactionary view, the introduction gives an extremely lucid, and helpful, overview of the divergent disciplines which are interested in the material, and then focuses more predominantly on the ways in which archaeology and anthropology can develop or enhance material culture studies. This is one of the first things I have read which steps outside the disciplinary expectation and inheritance of archaeology and anthropology and seems to have a good critical tone. The volume itself, which I have not read, is lengthy with multiple parts and chapters and seems to provide a interesting and useful blend of theoretical overview, methodological consideration and specific focus. All in all - this seems to me, at first glance, like the kind of synthetic volume that will be very useful to people working on or interested objects from a variety of different disciplinary perspectives...

Any reviewers out there who have read the volume care to comment in more detail?

July 30, 2010

Book Review: "An Infinity of Things"

An Infinity of Things: How Sir Henry Wellcome Collected the World. By Frances Larson, Oxford University Press, 2009.

Reviewed by Donna Bilak (Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, Material Culture)

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Medicine Man exhibition (Wellcome Collection)
Photo: Rama Knight/Wellcome Images (http://www.wellcomecollection.org)

Frances Larson’s latest work, An Infinity of Things: How Sir Henry Wellcome Collected the World (Oxford University Press, 2009) depicts one man’s obsessive accumulation of objects for the study of the science of healing across human culture, and discusses the consequences (intended and otherwise) of the resulting colossal collection. It reflects the author’s continuing examination into the material world of 19th- and 20th-century museum collections in Britain as shaped by the human relationships and interactions with objects that created and informed these spaces. This book stems from Larson’s PhD thesis, “The Collection of a Lifetime: Creating Henry Wellcome’s Historical Medical Museum” (University of Oxford, 2004) and intersects with her other publication, co-authored with Chris Gosden, Knowing Things: Exploring the Collections at the Pitt Rivers Museum, 1884-1945 (Oxford University Press, 2007).

An Infinity of Things plays out amid Wellcome’s life experiences and legacy. From humble beginnings in Minnesota as the son of a poor itinerant Adventist minister, Henry Soloman Wellcome (1853-1936) went on to earn a college degree in pharmacy and then worked as a traveling drug salesman in America; in 1880 he moved to London, entering into business partnership with fellow American Silas Burroughs. Thereafter Burroughs Wellcome and Company revolutionized and cornered Britain’s pharmaceutical industry with their marketing innovations and extensive product range, generating tremendous wealth for both men. Larson convincingly parallels Wellcome’s approach to designing items – like medical travel cases for the firm’s construction – with the objects he collected. Wellcome constantly sourced and sent his manufacturers a range of ordinary things bearing well-made or innovative details (hinges, handles, springs, metal/leather finishing, etc.) flagged as prototypes of his design ideas and vision. Larson effectively explains his fixation with minutiae as being an expression and extrapolation of data, connecting the significance of Wellcome’s work habits with the assembly of his vast collection.

Wellcome assumed company control after Burroughs’ sudden death in 1895, instituting the ventures for which he is universally remembered and which continue under the Wellcome Trust’s auspice: philanthropic missions dedicated to advancing human and animal health, and private funding for scientific research and development as well as the medical humanities. The turn of the century also marked Wellcome’s own burgeoning intellectual interests and academic aspirations, manifested in his driving aim to create a total history of human health and healing for scholarly research. Wellcome envisioned this happening through his creation of a comprehensive, encyclopedic artifact collection from cultures across the globe. However, only upon his determination of its completion would it be made fully accessible to scholars, reflecting the diffidence and paranoia that characterized and hampered his academic dealings. Larson thoroughly documents this aspect of Wellcome’s personality throughout her work, extending the discussion to encompass the relationship between Wellcome’s acquisitive thirst and competitive spirit that fueled his collecting practice.

Midway through the book, Larson comes to the Wellcome Historical Medical Museum (WHMM), which opened in 1913 after an eight-year delay caused by Wellcome’s reticence to exhibit what he considered to be an incomplete collection. The WHMM channeled the aims and anxieties of its creator in its select displays from the collection with access limited to scholars and members of the public bearing letters of introduction from medical professionals. Despite the WHMM’s critical acclaim, Wellcome still deemed his collection unfinished. For the next 23 years he and his agents continued to gather books, manuscripts, paintings, and objects of all kinds – Wellcome even collected other collections – resulting in several warehouses packed with tons of things (armor, instruments, fetishes, amulets, pillboxes, masks, tools, netsuke, artillery, skulls, photograph albums, textiles, furniture, etc. etc.), all of which eventually fell to Wellcome’s trustees to deal with. The book concludes with a narration of the gradual disbursement of hundreds of thousands of artifacts in the years following Wellcome’s death (i.e. sold at auction, supplied by container load to other museums and universities, and scrapped in cases of extreme deterioration). After decades of shedding unwanted books and objects, cataloguing and organizing the remainder, the Wellcome Building on Euston Road in London now houses the library together with the Wellcome Collection (that is, a permanent display called “Medicine Man” featuring around 300 objects from the original collection), open to the public since June 2007 following refurbishment. [1]

Larson’s intent with An Infinity of Things is to present a biography of this gargantuan, amorphous, ethnographic collection (pg.4). The book is organized around the trajectory of Wellcome’s collecting practices throughout his years as a pharmaceutical tycoon in London, and explored through the lens of his personal relationships and professional activities. The work is informative from the standpoint that it draws attention to an unprecedented ethnographic collection and sketches the contours of its collector’s complex psychological makeup, duly identifying Wellcome’s intentions, agendas and social networks.

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July 14, 2010

Review - One Day Sculpture

One Day Sculpture
David Cross and Claire Doherty (eds). 2009. Bielefeld: Kerber Verlag.
(276pp, coloured illustrations).


Reviewed by Mark Amery

One Day Sculpture saw twenty works of art occur for one day each, spread over more than a year, across New Zealand. How to assess something where only a few handfuls of people actually witnessed more than a handful of projects?

The answer is not to. Rather, how such a web of time-based activity is documented becomes crucial. Editors of this book and managing curators David Cross and Claire Doherty show they’ve given this a lot of thought. This title is a guidebook, providing some handy contemporary context and then gathering together with excellent photography disparate eyewitness accounts and curatorial perspectives of the projects. It’s the Lonely Planet of art publishing.

Whatever your assessment of One Day Sculpture’s success its impact has been significant. Artists, writers and curators will be sparking off for years to come the questions it raised, models it set up and the work, good, bad and indifferent. This is the quick reference book for that continuing enquiry, and its smart clear design makes it feel like one.

Given that most people’s experience of the work has been through documentation or discussion (signaled as an issue by the inclusion of an essay by Daniel Palmer on the photographs relationship to temporary work), how the book is led editorially is very important. This was one of the more interesting aspects of the whole enterprise - where and when the viewing point for work began and stopped – and writing around specific works here is kept principally subjective, with eyewitness accounts.

The book is a very self-aware exercise in keeping interpretation open, and for the most part that’s very welcome. That is taken to a fairly fruitless extreme however by the inclusion in the back of a transcript of an uneven conversation between various curators, better left in the public programme.

After a very readable summary from the editors of the entire programme, the book opens with what is titled a Reader: short essays on issues pertinent to temporary work. These texts provide general context from a distance rather than a response to the works, some more clearly than others (as with her address at the symposium Jane Rendell’s is full of fascinating insights but pretty impenetrable).

It’s uncomfortable that all bar one of the Reader writers (and he, American Martin Patrick, a recent addition to Massey staff) hail from outside of New Zealand. They give the work international ballast and attention (which I’m sure is a smart move academically), but it's disturbing that the project ends up feeling like it has that old hierarchy of being framed from the outside, while the writers on the actual work are in the great majority local.

Handy as it is it’s also a rather dense beginning to the book. Placed at the back these writers could have been given more room. As it is you sense they are just getting going on their topic before they have to wrap it up.

As for the overseas artists, while some visitors created works that were charged by and the whole concept of being brought to the other end of the world for the briefest of projects, others it seemed to me left behind not just light work but lightweight work. It was hard to see how brief visits were conducive to making good work. Some of my favourites were by artists local to their locations, able to understand the complexities of their context. I simply didn’t buy ODS’s championing of actions with only fleeting engagement with their sites.

Whether the different writers felt the events they write upon successful can be hard to gauge from their impressions. They often keep a passerby’s distance, and criticism becomes implicit rather than stated.


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March 4, 2010

Do Museums Still Need Objects?

Conn, Steven. 2010. Do Museums Still Need Objects? Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press

reviewed by Haidy Geismar, NYU

Conn is a historian of museums, whose other books include the influential Museums and American Intellectual Life, 1876-1926 (2000, U Chicago Press). In this book, he surveys the current "predicament of culture" for contemporary museums. For Conn, many of the current problems and politics within museums are focused on a destabilization of the role of objects and collections in exhibitions and the constitution of knowledge of the world.

This is more of a collection of essays than a sustained argument about objects in museums, although each chapter suggests a "loss" of objects in some way, if not a physical loss (as in the case of repatriation) than an interpretive loss in which the object is increasingly secondary to political agenda, commercial interest, educational reform and so on. Chapters focus on repatriation (especially in the context of NAGPRA); the framing of objects from Asia in US Museums; the growing focus on youth in the display and educational strategies of Science museums; a case-study of the "birth and death" of the Philadelphia Commercial Museum and a final chapter assessing the place museums continue to hold in the consolidation of "civic identities".

This is a good introduction to the contemporary culture of museums in the US and the ways in which museum histories and legacies negotiate with cultural politics and other pressing concerns. It surveys this field providing a number of different examples, drawing on many disciplines and kinds of museums in an accessible way.

The rest of my comment is not really concerned with Conn's book at all but is more a riff on the promise of its title (it's a snow day in NYC so I have some time to meander). This is not a book that really engages philosophically with the question of whether museums still need objects, and indeed what those objects might be. Little attention is paid to the generation of new kinds of collection and the presence of new kinds of object in museums - the reference point for a museum object is, following Conn's area of expertise, the collections of the 19th century and their legacy in the present.

My following comments are therefore not a criticism of this book but suggestions for further discussion, hopefully in the comments of this blog! I would have been interested to see what a historian (rather than an archaeologist, anthropologist or biologist) might say about developing a historian's methodology for understanding the changing role of "objects" in museums. Conn surveys the tensions that objects raised for anthropologists, for instance, in the US trying to apprehend culture (in terms of their seeming stasis, their seeming timelessness, their muteness, and increasingly their presence 'out' of communities and in museums). It seems to me that the historian may face a similar epistemological issue, and in fact there is a similar history of academic historians moving away from the museum, uncomfortable with the uncertainty of object interpretation and issues of context. At the same time, the public history of the US has largely been told through objects in museums, historic houses, and historical societies, as Handler's excellent study of Colonial Williamsburg describes. What tools can the historian bring to bear that might complement the ways in which anthropologists have grappled with cultural knowledge, or historical knowledge, in object form?

I would emphasise a certain lacunae in the book's survey of the relationship between museum and anthropology, the references to which are somewhat dated. As many of us are well aware, there has in recent years been a (very very small by the standards of the discipline, but nonetheless important) renaissance in an avant-garde museum anthropology, which is collaborative, consultative and creative and generative of many new kinds of museum objects, as well as actively engaging with historical collections, recognising their significance to multiple constituencies, thinking about repatriation in an expansive manner (eg. digital repatriation, which whilst problematic, is quite different to the return of singular artifacts). For just one recent summary, see Anthony Shelton's interview in a recent issue of Anthropology Today recounting his own experience in museums and the innovative work of the UBC Museum of Anthropology.

In order to understand objects in history we need to understand how uses of objects in museums change in time, and internalize versions and visions of history. Each museum age has its own kind of object, and uses these objects to forge its own kind of knowledge and relationship between scholarship, curator, and audience and so forth. However, Webb Keane made an important point in a post on this blog reviewing the volume Thinking Through Things in which he comments that the relative, culturally specific, view of interpretation (described by the authors of that volume as "multiple ontologies") would surely foreclose on unmediated understanding the meaning of objects over time as well as between places. How would a historian respond to these issues? What place can objects have in a view of history as an ongoing process that makes and remakes the past and the present.

In talking about contemporary repatriation debates in the US, Conn aligns himself with conservative commentators on these issues who see repatriation as dealing narrowly with debates over ownership and private property, ideologies of the commons versus ideologies of exceptional entitlement. These views take a narrow rather than expansive definition of objects, in which objects are either mutely exploited by interpretive communities or are monolithic in the ways in which they materialise such values as cultural commons, world or universal museums, and even art.

I don't have the perfect interpretive answer to present here, but I'm starting to wonder if we all might would be better served to think about museum's subjects (putting for a moment the imbalance of power that the term subject suggests, although there are similar problems of power inherent to the term object, epitomized by the colloquial use of the word 'objectification') and their relationship to form or materiality? We tend to think about subjects AS objects in museums. How about thinking of objects AS subjects?

On the first page of their introduction to the volume, Thinking through things, Henare, Holbraad and Wastell ask, "What would an artefact-oriented anthropology look like if it were not about material culture?". Here, they reiterate a narrow view of what material culture is - no wonder given the 19th century roots of the category and also take a stab at "material culture studies". It's in fact a similar question to "do museums still need objects?" Holbraad, Henare and Wastell mean how can we think of artefacts without evoking the genealogy of material culture (assuming material culture to be a value laden concept rather than a synonym for artefacts), Conn is really asking Do museum's need these nineteenth century collections? Both questions are provocative dead ends... Instead of leading to direct answers, both questions lead us to rethink how we define what objects are, what is included in our definition, and what is a legacy from earlier ways of conceptualizing the material world and assuming knowledge from it. Useful questions, but perhaps it's best to put semantics aside and focus on documenting how ideas about, and attitudes to, the object world have changed.

February 17, 2010

Review 'Stone Worlds'

Timothy Webmoor, Saïd Business School, Univ. of Oxford

Review of: Stone Worlds: Narrative and Reflexivity in Landscape Archaeology by Barbara Bender, Sue Hamilton and Christopher Tilley, 2008. Left Coast Press, Walnut Creek, California.

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This is an innovative and creative book. These are its best qualities. It is also ambitious - the authors setting themselves the task of both complying with the “archaeological morality” (269) of publishing the results of field investigations, and conveying the experience of working at Leskernick on Bodmin Moor, Cornwall. To do this, the authors have experimented with form and content. And while their citational circle does not extend to media studies (where, I would suggest, they would find inspiration and edification), the book exemplifies Marshall McLuhan’s famous adage: the medium is the message.

Reviewing experimental work, criticism rather than accolade comes easier, partly because the novelty excludes easy comparative evaluation. So I think it important to underscore that being innovative and taking risks, even though you may be safely tenured scholars, should be commended. It creates discussion, fosters debate, stirs emotion, and motivates colleagues to work harder. It disrupts our insulated routines of scholarly production. It is, unfortunately, all too rare.

The collaborative effort of the Leskernick project, steered by Barbara Bender, Sue Hamilton and Christopher Tilley, bends the parameters of analogue publication to transcend traditional site reports. The reader will not find neat topical divisions, no ‘introduction’, ‘background’ (limited to environmental characteristics and a few weather stats), ‘results’, ‘discussion’ or ‘significance’, followed by add on (and on and on) appendices. And with few exceptions, it does not resemble any other field project’s publication in archaeology.

There is a structure, however, with the book divided into four parts. Part One somewhat approximates a conventional ‘introducing the site’. Goals for the project are laid out, the setting and unique “awe and mystery” of the rocky hill where Leskernick is situated are conveyed, and the authors quickly dispel any notion that this will be a conventional report focused upon an archaeological site. By the time they conclude Chapter 1 stating that “we stand with the Leskernick people at the centre of their world” (35), the reader can expect to share an intimacy that will bring her to the edge of being an ‘insider’ of the project (cf. 266). We then receive an orienting tour of the site, followed by Chapter 3’s methodology.

Part Two encompasses the ‘real’ archaeological information. If one were after conventional details, Chapters 4-7 are were we glean the details about Bronze Age Leskernick gathered through the excavation of 400 square meters of area, and the survey of every house and field enclosure on Leskernick Hill. A rough chronology, pegged to the radiocarbon dates in Table 4.1 (88-89), develops. Initially there were the earliest stone rows and circles, with the most spectacular ‘Propped Stone” and its summer solstice alignment dating to as early as the Neolithic. Then, in the hill’s clitter of stones, a growing population of 100-200 people, or eight to sixteen families, built their houses and field enclosures during the Middle Bronze Age and supported a pastoral economy (138).

There is disagreement about whether these people inhabited Leskernick year round or only seasonally, though the directors favor the former scenario. Then there is a decrease in the number of families, leaving the hill with perhaps only 60 inhabitants. Then a gradual abandonment of the dwellings and the hill until much later medieval visitation and re-use. It is the narrative of part of the life-cycle of a landscape.

The volume could have ended here with the conclusion of Chapter 7. But this book is not really about archaeological information. The remaining Parts Three and Four use the archaeological endeavor as more of a backdrop for what seems to particularly interest the project directors (or at least two of the three). This is the experience of Leskernick in the present. It is this emphasis, which makes the work stand out. It also draws the reader in – initially.

What rapidly occurs, though, is an overabundance of information; sometimes repackaged for different chapters, or indeed blatantly repeated (compare diary entries of 53 with 255). There is simply too much detail. They are concerned not to “close off alternative interpretations” (86), to let “the voices proliferate” (438, note 1.3), to avoid “a rhetoric of authority in which closure is created and debate shut-down” (27-28). But what happens is a numbing effect. So that rather than precise details concerning Leskernick, the reader comes away with a series of theses.

This is too bad as the following chapters, though somewhat disjointed, present a range of interesting ‘case studies’ that span anthropology and cognate fields and which dissolve disciplinarian distinctions. The phenomenological treatment of the ‘processional way’ of the site (184-190) and ‘photo essay’ of the neighboring ridge of Brown Willy (231-236), the artistic interventions of Chapter 13, the frank discussions of political economy in Chapter 11, and of running a public outreach exhibition in Chapter 14, as well as the visual and material culture analyses packed into Chapter 12 are examples of what’s on offer. While these extra-disciplinarian studies could have been better merged with the more traditional archaeological reporting, casting the net wider like this worked well in conveying the experiential side of Leskernick.

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January 10, 2010

Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Highlands

By Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington
2010: University of California Press.

Reviewed by Emily Yates-Doerr, NYU Anthropology

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A half-dozen strips of white, greasy fat, with a few thin lines of blood-red flesh running through them— this is the image on the cover of Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Islands. One can’t, perhaps, judge a book by its cover. But in the case of Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington’s latest book – which could easily become a food studies classic – the cover is instructive. The authors suggest that the appearance of this cheap meat typically elicits a response of disgust. Moreover it is this common response that makes flaps an unusual material commodity as they resist Marx’s notion of fetishization (the straightforward equation of value with price). Instead of appearing as disconnected from the processes of production through which they emerge, the image of the “cheap, fatty, and undesirable cut of meat… evokes the labor processes of killing and dismembering that went into them” (p. 27). Flaps additionally, Gewertz and Errington argue, resist fetishization of consumption; because they are a widely stigmatized meat, they do not hide, but draw attention to the persisting inequalities between those who eat and those who eschew the fatty meat. Flaps, already embroiled in local controversies, “encourage people to think about the broader historical relationships that make them” (p. 28).

In this easily readable, but nonetheless ambitious book, Gewertz and Errington apply their longstanding interest in change in Papua New Guinea to the controversies surrounding the sale and purchase of lamb and mutton fat among, what they call, “Flap Food Nations.” They suggest that flaps embody numerous ambiguities about post-colonial relations between the Pacific Islands (specifically Papua New Guinea, Fiji, and Tonga) and Australia and New Zealand. Although they are a tasty and important source of nutrition for many Pacific Islanders, they are also widely seen as “by-products”, “dumped” upon the poor by wealthier nations. Furthermore, given an escalating incidence of obesity in the Pacific Islands, flaps – themselves more than 50% fat – have come to represent the high prevalence of dietary related illnesses: diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, etc. Gewertz and Errington suggest that because of their complicated symbolism, flaps function akin to totems, marking group membership— in this case third world eaters and first world refusers. This totemic quality of flaps additionally references inextricable relations of dependency, indexing those who live in a second-rate modernity in which they reply upon a second-rate source of food.

Cheap Meat follows “the flow of flaps” (p. 8) in order to explore how a “cheap, fatty meat ends up only in certain places and only in certain bodies” (p. 40). The authors begin their exploration of the “global omnivore’s dilemma” (p. 118) – that is, how to chose what to eat – in New Zealand and Australia, countries where flaps are either rejected or used for pet food. Gewertz and Errington are refreshingly transparent about their methodologies and always forthright about the complexities of their anthropological commitments. They carefully detail their visits to (dis)assembly slaughterhouses, where low-value flaps are separated from high value loins and racks (flaps are the only part of the sheep that needs no further processing, and, because they are a “cheap meat,” they are simply sawed apart and stuffed into bags or cartons without regard for aesthetic presentation). Although flaps constitute just 3-5% of a carcass’s value, because margins of profit for meat production are low, flaps must be sold for the producers to make money. Rather than demonize the “middle men” of the meat trade who are responsible for arranging the export of “cheap meat” to poorer Pacific Island countries, Gewertz and Errington describe the traders they interview as “the commercial corollary of anthropologists” (p. 54). To achieve desired sales, these traders – many of whom operate “at the bottom of the market” (p. 70) – are required to cultivate considerable knowledge about and ties within the communities where they work.

By the second half of the book, when this multi-sited study of globalism moves to the Pacific Islands, the authors have succinctly presented their readers with an important history of the recent origins of the production and inter-island trade of flaps. This history illuminates another ambiguity entailed in the sale of flaps: unlike many “traditional,” so-called “ethnic” fatty foods (lardo in Italy, chitlins in the US south, or even the brined brisket consumed in the Papua New Guinea), flaps are a recently introduced commodity without much cultural cache. Gewertz and Errington carefully point out that poorer Pacific Islanders depend upon flaps as a source of affordable calories, that street venders rely upon their sale, and that many of their informants (surveyed in their study by local anthropology students) described flaps as enjoyable, convenient, and filling. Yet their informants overwhelmingly viewed flaps as sub-par to the local delicacy of pig, and even those Pacific Islanders who depend on flaps for sustenance saw them as a troubling representation of the structural inequalities between first world producers and third world consumers. As the authors write: “Papua New Guineans do know – and do remain concerned by the fact – that lamb and mutton flaps are rejected by white people” (p. 108). Although Australian and New Zealand producers defended their trade with statements such as, “One person’s trash was bound to be another’s treasure” (p. 73), Pacific Islanders were unsettled by their consumption of goods they knew others had rejected. In exploring this controversy, Cheap Meat convincingly demonstrates that in the case of flaps, “Conversion of trash to treasure may become, over time, an increasingly compromised alchemy” (p. 95).

In the last two chapters of the book (“Pacific Island Flaps” and “One Supersize Does Not Fit All”) the authors engage most directly with the public health crisis that shadows their study. They use two Pacific Islands as case studies: Fiji, which banned the sale of flaps in 2000, and Tonga, where public health officials estimate that 60% of those aged 15 and older are obese. In Fiji, the government began to regulate against flaps as a means to protect the health of its citizens (despite the challenge this ban posed to the neoliberal free-trade stipulations of the World Trade Organization, it was locally defended as a public-health corollary to other countries’ regulations of food safety). While the authors raise important questions about potential limits of public health, and point out that the ban has done little to curtail rates of obesity and may have even harmed those who are undernourished and protein-deprived, they also laud the Fijian government for showing itself to be “committed to and capable of” taking steps to address the public health concerns of its citizens (p. 119).

Gewertz and Errington explore numerous public health measures aimed at obesity prevention in Fiji and Tonga. For example, they describe a televised public health commercial that follows flaps as they move from congealed fat to a blocked artery to a man’s stroke. They also detail a church scene where a Pentecostal preacher publically weighs his parishioners while encouraging them to treat their bodies as temples of God. Their analysis entails a trenchant critique of the “just do it” (p. 152) narratives of consumer choice and individual responsibility that drive many discussions of obesity prevention. They point out that given widespread (and increasing) market inequalities, not all citizens have the same range of opportunities and so not all consumers are equally capable of making “healthy” choices. In the beginning of Cheap Meat, the authors said that due to the ethical concerns underlying their research they felt obligated to weigh in with policy recommendations. It is at the end of the book that they do so, and they conclude their study by suggesting that while it would be unreasonable to expect first world countries (New Zealand and Australia) to restrict their export of flaps, poorer countries like Tonga or Fiji should not be prevented from taking actions – perhaps in the form of food bans – to protect the public health of their citizens. “Good food choices,” they suggest, “must be made as easy as possible” (p. 164).

Overall, Cheap Meat is a compelling and informative read, which could be assigned to undergraduate courses on culture and food in any discipline. It would also complement introductory anthropology course syllabi, as it cogently engages with the dilemmas confronting modern-day multi-sited ethnographic research. In studying the global flows of a commodity food across numerous nations, and by linking this food to the weight and health of people’s bodies, the authors are, admittedly, tackling a huge project. Any one of their chapters might have been an entire study, and the book as a whole is a formidable analysis of a complex and increasingly significant public health concern. Because of this, I will not provide concluding criticism typical of book reviews, but will instead suggest areas that might be elaborated upon in further research.

My research on the “nutrition transition” in Guatemala focuses on perceptions of dietary health and changing corporeal ideals, and – likely because of this – the sections of Cheap Meat that I found especially compelling were those that explored the local dilemmas that Pacific Islanders have experienced in their reliance on the consumption of “cheap meat.” While the authors argue that fatty meat is stigmatized (even among people who enjoy it), further research might usefully explore whether, and in what circumstances, this stigmatization extends to fat bodies. We learn that the former King of Tonga was the “world’s most enormous monarch” (p. 50) weighing in at up to 462 pounds. We are also told that the corporeal bulk of PNG politicians indexes their power and privilege (even if illegitimate and disproportionate). The authors suggest that fatness among the Mari was amusing and a source of “good natured banter” (p. 113). In all of these descriptions fatness has positive and even desirable connotations. Yet they also tell us that an estimated 15% of girls in Fiji – caught between familial pressures to eat, and societal and governmental pressures for thinness – are reported to have “patterns of disordered eating” (p. 140). It would be interesting to examine the circumstances through which body fat becomes undesirable, and the strategies of weight management employed in response. If Pacific Island elite, who can afford “luxury” low-calorie foods, have begun to diet, how is this affecting post-colonial understandings of what constitutes proper eating, proper body form, and – by extension – inclusion in national bodies?

In this vein, further studies might explore existing and emerging national stratifications that form around fat meat and fat bodies. The authors describe flaps as embodying a “diffuse social anxiety” about the international inequalities between first and third world countries. To what degree might they also embody, or come to embody, anxieties about local inequalities? I also wonder: Although thinness and health are increasingly conflated in public discourse, is weight regulation in fact becoming the individualized moral problem in the Pacific Islands that is it in many western countries? While the authors devote critical attention to public health and commercial discourses that frame consumption of fatty meat as a “lifestyle” matter and encourage individual responsibility, further studies might explore how these understandings of fat are actually taken up in people’s lives and everyday practices. Given the longstanding anthropological emphasis on Melanesian relationality, it would be instructive to know how Pacific Islanders are adopting, resisting, or transforming public health narratives of personal responsibility.

Finally, I would like to learn more about the understandings of dietary and bodily health that exist in the rural communities where many of the now-urban field informants of Cheap Meat originate. Gewertz and Errington briefly discuss notions of care in Fiji, where a local word, Vikawaitaki, implies food exchange and feeding and is understood to emerge in bodily form. Vikawaitaki (care) both figuratively and materially “marks the body with the record of its success” (p. 139). Given that global public health programs often standardize terms like “health,” “care,” “nourishment,” “nutrition,” and “diet,” an exploration of the local nuances of these ideas – as well as the practices through which they gain their meanings – in places where public health campaigns are still marginal, strikes me as a potentially valuable extension to what is already a valuable and impressive study.

December 25, 2009

The Object Reader

The Object Reader, Fiona Candlin and Raiford Guins, eds. London and New York: Routledge, 2009.

Review by Eugenia Kisin, NYU Anthropology PhD student

The Object Reader is a weighty collection of things. Comprised of twenty-eight previously published pieces of writing on the material world as well as twenty-five specifically commissioned “object lessons,” short meditations on specific objects/artefacts/things, the reader brings together scholarship on objects from art history, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies, psychology, science and technology studies—such a wide array of approaches and theoretical nuances that it is often difficult to disentangle their trajectories. But this is precisely the point. As the editors point out in their introduction, the logic of an “object reader” as opposed to an “object studies” one is that it preserves some of the discordance between different lineages, providing “epistemological vantages” (2) instead of constitutive methodologies. These vantages are organized thematically into seven sections—“Object,” “Thing,” “Objects and Agency,” “Object Experience,” “The Objecthood of Images,” “Leftovers,” and the “Object Lessons”—which, for the most part, are loosely chronologically arranged. Candlin and Guins are clear that they have not privileged the social historical over the philosophical, the discursive over the embodied, nor the technological over the psychoanalytic in their selections, in the interest of generating “productive frictions and the problems and pleasures each may pose” (6)—a playful evocation, from the outset, of essays as (sensuous) objects that may be positioned in relation to one another enabling resonance or collision. In this self-conscious provocation, the collection is most successful, coaxing out tensions between different ways of knowing about objects through its juxtapositions—a most dramatic example of which, also identified by the editors, is Maurice M. Manring’s cultural and American studies unpacking of the material conditions of “the slave in a box” imagery of Aunt Jemima brand pancake mix (343) sharing thematic space in the section entitled “The Objecthood of Images” with Michael Fried’s classic indictment of theatricality in art (“Art and Objecthood,” p. 307) on the grounds that “objects” are tied to precisely the materialities that Manring and others see value in exploring.

Yet in spite of its interdisciplinarity—which one is tempted, using the object metaphor, to call “formal”—The Object Reader is also inevitably implicated in forming the field of “object studies,” shaping its contours, valences, and attachments specifically in relation to the present moment in “visual culture.” Indeed, the collection itself is part of In-Sight, a visual culture series edited by Nicholas Mirzoeff, and was conceived at Penn State’s ‘Objects in/of Visual Culture” Conference in 2004. As such, it enters into debates around the ambivalence of “the object” itself, and its (possibly undesirable) mediation through art writing and other discursive practices—an important theme that resonates with other contemporary collections on material culture, in which the problem of the relationship between language and object is more explicitly raised, and one that I want to return to in exploring how, as a collection, the reader shapes theory and method in the study of objects. Such an exercise seems very much in the spirit of the reader, leading to questions about its form, meaning, and role in the production of knowledge in excess of its own thematic categories.

First, in terms of genealogies, the specter of Marx but even more so of Freud necessarily loom large in the collection in perspectives such as George Lukács explication of Marx’s notions of reification and self-objectification (“The Phenomenon of Reification”) and D.W. Winnicott’s psychoanalytic charting of transitional objects, or early childhood possessions that are recognized as somewhat external to the self without fully solidifying the boundaries of interiority and exteriority (“Transitional Objects and Transitional Phenomena”)—both classic essays that are significantly not Marx or Freud themselves. Indeed, while commodity fetishism and repressed desire continue to be important issues with which many authors in the reader grapple, the positioning of theoretical weight on more recent theorists seems to be a deliberate choice, and one that is clarified in Elizabeth Grosz’s “The Thing,” in which she articulates the need to construct “an altogether different lineage”(124) for studying things that is not predicated on the rigid separation between self and other. An emphasis on affect and experience, another common thread in such contributions as Elizabeth Edwards’ analysis of photographs as relic-like conduits of memory and practice (“Photographs as Objects of Memory”) and Vivian Sobchack’s incisive critique of the recent use of “the prosthetic” as a category of theory divorced from experience (“A Leg to Stand On: Prosthetics, Metaphor, and Materiality”), extends such a lineage, tacitly clarifying why a concern with affect and trauma build naturally upon Marxian and psychoanalytic perspectives and continue to seduce the study of visual and material culture.

Building upon these liminalities between persons and things, another possible and promising lineage for object studies that the collection articulates is that of science and technology studies (STS). From Bruno Latour’s Actor Network Theory account of our delegation of tasks to non-human door grooms in solving the “wall-hole dilemma” of how to provide access to a building while ensuring that the door remains closed when it is not in use (“Where are the Missing Masses? The Sociology of a Few Mundane Artifacts”) to Julian Bleecker’s analysis of virtual “blogjects” or objects that make meaning through the internet such as pigeons with GPS trackers who are the “Web 2.0 progeny of the Canary in the Coal Mine”(167) (“Why Things Matter: A Manifesto for Networked Objects—Cohabiting with Pigeons, Arphids, and AIBOs in the Internet of Things”), the inclusion of these perspectives usefully grounds the insights of Thing Theory and pushes the study of specific technologies that matter right now into more consequential and rigorous arenas. Indeed, it seems no coincidence that seven of the twenty-five “object lessons” contributors chose to focus on technological objects, ranging from iPods to AIBO the robotic dog to changing war games counters to pixels—clearly, the materialities of the virtual worlds we inhabit are worthy provocateurs of thing/us affinities, displacing the “methodological atheism”(210) that Alfred Gell criticizes in his analysis of the enchantment of technologies and their roles as agents in social reproduction (“The Technology of Enchantment and the Enchantment of Technology”).

The possibilities of “following the actors” through the STS paradigm are deftly illustrated in historical perspective by Wiebe E. Bijker’s “King of the Road: The social construction of the safety bicycle,” in which Bijker reconstructs social history through the narratives of contemporaneous users of the defunct nineteenth century high-wheeled bicycle. This methodology is intended by Bijker to avoid Whiggish accounts of historical progress that would ignore such objects (273), and resonates strongly with the other historical pieces in the collection, such as Paige Dubois’ rigorous analysis of the meanings of olisbos or dildos in classical antiquity (“Dildos”) in which she invokes textual analysis, asking “what is the web, the cultural and semantic field, the syntax in which the dildo figures in ancient discourses?”(99). Likewise, Barbara Penner’s “A World of Unmentionable Suffering: Women’s Public Conveniences in Victorian London” persuasively unpacks the arguments around class and gender that pervaded discussions of toilets and women in the public sphere in the nineteenth century through a close reading of public discourse. These, along with other historical accounts, are the most methodologically satisfying in the book, possibly because they make use of tools honed over four decades of social art history to craft careful, well-reasoned, nuanced arguments about the relations between social and material worlds. And yet if Candlin and Guins have their way, this should perhaps cause us to pause. Indeed, all of these historical pieces unconsciously posit a particular relationship between language and objects in which the former almost seems to engulf the latter, which is good for empiricism, but of course not for everything.

Two entries from the collection, both “object lessons,” help to clarify this point: first, Griselda Pollock’s “Maternal Object: Matrixial Subject,” which is, on one level, a reading of Belgian artist Chantal Akerman’s video installation To Walk Next to One’s Shoelaces inside an Empty Fridge, in which the filmmaker and her mother talk over the diary of Akerman’s grandmother who was killed in Auschwitz, and the complex desires and traumas embodied in the work. But the same time, Pollock’s critique is also a kind of refusal to engage with “the object,” but instead with the multiple affective attachments and subjectivities that obtain around it—echoing and intervening productively into the moment of art writing that Pollock identifies as “the end of the object”(483)—an intervention into “visual culture” in which the collection is thoroughly entangled. In a similar way, Fiona Candlin’s concluding contribution “Yesterday Upon the Stair” recounts the authors’ struggles during graduate school to produce an artwork representing the experiences of the ghost of Lady Sneyd, the specter that haunted Keele Hall, within the confines and tensions of the authors’ theory-practice programme. Candlin concludes that her struggles embodied the (gendered) fractures in understanding produced by her programme: “I wanted to experience something other than rationalism but I was too trained to realize that I could, that I already did” (532). Both of these pithy object lessons articulate a key tension between the object and its textual, visual, rational properties and its material, embodied, affective dimensions.

It seems to me that this tension, along with Marx and Freud, is the specter haunting this collection—indeed, there is something delightfully sly about the editors’ commissioning and displaying textual object lessons in the first place, when the relationships between objects and language has been raised and hotly contested in other recent collections that focus on materiality. Like Pollock, many of the object lesson contributors come up with creative solutions to these problems of representation, embodiment, and object agency. For example, Ruud Kaulingfrek’s “The Broken Mug” is told as a story in the third person, in which both author and coffee mug are characters in the morning breakage drama whose catalyst is the mug’s inconvenient “cry for attention”(455), and Carolyn Thomas de la Peña argues that the only way to understand the meaning of the “Saccharin Sparrow,” a bird-shaped sugar substitute dispenser implicated in American women’s complex meal-time performances of self-denial in the 1950s, is through enactment of the self-absorbed drama of meticulously dispensing the saccharin tablets (508). These accounts resonate well with Tim Ingold’s essay “On Weaving a Basket,” in which the author inverts typical accounts of process-based agencies by giving primacy to the materials in determining a woven objects’ form (89), and assert the possibilities of taking materiality seriously in even short analytical pieces.

However, in spite of the originality of the contributors’ attempts to negotiate the limits of textual analysis, the collection’s relationship with the tensions between the visual and the material and, even more notably, the dynamics of production and consumption, is not as satisfyingly explored as it could have been. Specifically, the editors’ attempts to differentiate their collection from other recent material culture readers listed in the final section of The Object Reader, “An Object Bibliography,” are quite palpable—and commendable—but lead to problematic exclusions. For instance, the tensions in objectification and consumption explored by Lukács and quite brilliantly elaborated in Anna Beatrice Scott’s analysis of both the sensuous pleasures, represented aurally and visually as a film treatment, and the exploitative labor congealed in Havaianas flip-flops (“Bouncing in the Streets: A Performance Remix”), could have been complimented by recent anthropological work on consumption that mitigates these tensions from a slightly different vantage point through its commitment to local definitions of objectification and inalienability (see, for instance, Daniel Miller’s The Comfort of Things, or Jennifer Kramer’s Switchbacks: Art, Ownership, and Nuxalk National Identity). Indeed, it seems that the “object lessons” and a brief introduction to the detritus of consumption, “Trash” by Julian Stallabrass—which, interestingly, also attempts to interrupt the textual “neatening” of object relations through photographs of discarded commodities—are the only nods to the problematic (and constitutive) dynamics of consuming objects.

Related to these issue of local mediations of the tensions of modernity is the problematic positioning of non-Western objects in The Object Reader. When taken together as non-Western examples, Gell’s analysis of the enchanting qualities of Trobriand canoe-prows, Michael Taussig’s account of Cuna curing figurines that depict European colonizers (“In Some Way or Another One Can Protect Oneself from the Spirits by Portraying Them”), and even Marcel Mauss’ famous piece on inalienable property possessing the spirit of the giver in Polynesia and Native North America (“Gifts and the Obligation to Return Gifts”) tend to essentialize non-Western objects as necessarily bound up with ritual—in sharp contrast to the emphasis on the mundane in the Western objects considered. A notable exception to this is Celeste Olalquiaga’s “Holy Kitschen,” which traces the re-contextualizations of Latin American Catholic iconography in a range of kitschy forms in New York, to the important effect of calling the boundaries and movement of ritual and non-ritual objects into question. However, for the most part these West/rest distinctions remain firmly in place, largely, I think, as a result of the choice of original contributors—overwhelmingly North American and British artists and theorists—and possibly due to the “visual culture” orientation of the collection. Indeed, the specters of Marx and Freud seem to lead to lineages that exclude non-Western ways of knowing, even when rationalism and vision are themselves called into question.

All of this, however, is not to undermine the significance of what the reader does do particularly well through its grounding in visual and cultural studies. Specifically, Western anxieties over modernity are successfully articulated in ways that preserve their contradictions and tensions, as in Jean Baudrillard’s account of the inhumanities of the narcissisms and regressions revealed in (constructive) origin stories told by collections of non-functional objects (“Subjective Discourse or the Non-functional System of Objects”) and in Curtis Marez’s object lesson on the Homies, small plastic figurines representing Chicana/o “barrio types” whose predicaments mimic and critique racialized labor relations of Silicon Valley dot-com crisis while concealing, through commodification, the alienated labor that goes into their production (475, “The Homies, or the Last Angel of History in Silicon Valley”). These, and even the predicaments of representation, are struggles of modernity, and the strengths of the juxtapositions effected in the reader is that silences, limits, and ruptures of different vantages become apparent as pleasure, loss, alienation, and playfulness exist in tension with one another. It is in these tensions that the stakes of object study come into view—or being.

December 5, 2009

Looking Flash

Looking flash: clothing in Aotearoa New Zealand Edited by Bronwyn Labrum, Fiona McKergow & Stephanie Gibson Auckland University Press, Auckland, 2007. 288pp. RRP $49.99 ISBN: 978-1-86940-397-3

Reviewed by Graeme Were, University College London

This volume consists of fourteen chapters from different authors, all featuring many fascinating and compelling photographs. Given the richness of the material, it is difficult to summarise each paper in any depth. Readers will notice, however, a strong focus of the volume is the study of museum collections of clothing and their histories as well as the social context for key clothing styles that have helped shape settler society and Maori culture in New Zealand. The diverse content of the paper contributions weaves together a textured understanding of Aotearoa New Zealand as it is fabricated in narratives of Maori skills, marine history, Scottish settlement and military waistcoats and so forth.

This range of paper contributions will provide those interested in material culture, fashion and textiles with an important insight into the history of clothing styles in New Zealand. The authors are drawn from a range of backgrounds, and include museum curators, conservators, textiles historians and experts in museum studies and Pacific studies. Readers will be treated to outstanding photographic imagery: there are fifteen colour plates which complement some of the papers together with historical photographs that are rarely seen. These images – such as that of Mr and Mrs Imrie posing with their prized possessions, including a sewing machine (in Labrum’s chapter), evoke to the reader some sense of the spirit of settler society in the nineteenth century.

One quibble is that while the editors bring together a diverse range of innovative case studies, my feeling is that a better organisation of the chapters would have strengthened the key themes coming out of the volume. As a result, readers may find that they move erratically through a succession of chapters, jumping from one set of issues to another without any real reflection. Nevertheless, this volume is a welcome addition to the material culture of clothing and comes especially recommended for those with an interest in colonial clothing styles.

As way of a summary, the volume sets off with Labrum’s paper – an orientation, situating the overall study within the context of interdisciplinary studies of clothing, pointing out its transition away from dress or costume history towards material culture studies. Te Arapo Wallace examines a range of clothing worn by Maori, made from dog-skin and flax, demonstrating some of the technical skills of Maori weavers. This paper tries to unpick the western term ‘fashion’ and provides some concepts behind Maori clothing style through oral histories. Livingstone and Carson examine some eighteenth century dresses brought to New Zealand as heirlooms by families travelling from England. The paper explores the significance of these treasures – made from beautifully patterned silks - and the possible reasons why people packed them in their luggage.

The association between kilt wearing, authority and tradition is the subject of Pickles’s paper. She traces out how kilts first appeared in eighteenth century New Zealand worn by Anglo-Celtic New Zealanders from the time of colonisation, and worn for martial activities. This paper reveals some interesting historical points about the Scottish diaspora, the kilt industry, as well as the emergence of identities carried with the wearing of tartan especially amongst schoolchildren and the gay and lesbian communities. Butts’s paper takes us on a journey through the clothing collections of the Hawke’s Bay Art Gallery and Museum in Napier. The author underlines the importance of clothing collections in provincial museums in New Zealand by picking off the rack some treasures in the collection including: an eighteenth century Royal Irish Regiment officer’s tunic; a christening gown made of Indian muslin; a Maori waistcoat woven from plain and purple dyed flax; and an embroidered waistcoat once worn by a Scottish civil servant,

One of the most novel contributions features an analysis of the clothing of castaways – marooned or shipwrecked mariners – who are often mistaken for ‘wild men’ because of their inadequate or improvised clothing. Quérée’s highly original contribution charts the stories of shipwreck survivors in the Auckland Islands and how, once being rescued, their lives are normalised through the act of dressing. The chapter includes some wonderful historical photographs of such survivors wearing sealskin jackets, skirts, hats, and moccasins as well as sewing needles made from the bones of birds.

Tamarapa tells the story of rare type of dog hair cloak held in the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum of New Zealand. She uncovers the cloak’s history, documents its social significance and its technical construction, as well as its collection history using archival material and oral histories. Labrum’s contribution explores the culture of second-hand clothing, examining the nature of hand-me-downs and thrift beginning in the nineteenth century. She explains how newly arrived immigrants had trouble in obtaining clothing as they had to rely on imported goods and how the manual work many undertook led to novel ways of maintaining and repairing their own clothes. In a similar way to Quérée’s study of castaway clothing, this paper reveals innovative clothing practices amongst groups in society that are seldom represented. Indeed, Labrum’s paper ends with an examination of clothing in asylums, refuges and orphanages into the 1950s and 60s.

The next two chapters examine consumption and the retail clothing industry, integrating with good effect advertisements, photographs of shop fronts and cartoons. McKergow examines the experience of shopping in Palmerston North in the late nineteenth century by paying attention to shop window displays, sales techniques and promotional material. Daley is concerned with the beach and the story of shrinking swimwear. The advent of new fabrics allowed for lighter and tighter swimming outfits and this is traced alongside the changing moral economy of the twentieth century, which inevitably led to confrontations with New Zealand’s authorities.

Military uniforms weave together the theme of the following two papers. Montgomerie’s contribution explores the clothing fashions of women in the Second World War; and we learn how advertisements encouraged women to maintain interest in fashion and make-up despite shortages. Macdonald examines the clothing fashions of female marching teams and their connection to Scottish emblems – kilts, naming and accessories – as well as American service uniforms such as hats worn by marines.

Another contribution that stands out is the chapter on the social history of the black singlet. Gibson traces out its role in New Zealand rural identity, particularly its association to hard work and masculinity, and the transformations it has undertaken. She asserts that the singlet is iconic of twentieth century New Zealand culture and can be traced through a number of visual representations from stamps, cartoons, advertising and art. The final chapter explores the Eden Hore Collection of fashion. Malthus relates how Hore – a farmer and avid collector from Central Otago – allowed his housekeeper to wear items from his collection at local events. His collection is testament to some key fashion influences of the 1960s onwards with some extravagant items from famous designers.

Over the last decade or so, there has been a proliferation of studies from within the social sciences that explore the materiality of cloth and clothing. Clothing is now the leading concern of a host of interdisciplinary studies whose theoretical scope and justification was marked by the appearance of the work of Jane Schneider and Annette Weiner in 1989. The significance of their work lies in the fact that it drew attention to the seriousness of clothing as a material expression of genealogy, history and social memory, finally laying to rest the idea that clothing could be treated as some sort of trivial expression of social relations. This volume takes inspiration from this, and in so doing, presents a weighty contribution to the study of cloth and clothing in society from the regional perspective of Aotearoa New Zealand.

November 16, 2009

How Does it Matter?

Reviewed by Ian Wedde

Material Culture and Technology in Everyday Life: Ethnographic Approaches. 2009, edited by Phillip Vannini, New York: Peter Lang Publishers. 256pp. ISBN 978-1-4331-0301-8.

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One way to write a review of this book is to treat it as a material object suitable for ethnographic study within the social field of Material Culture and Technology Studies in Everyday Life – where, for our convenience, ‘everyday life’ here encompasses the daily practices, social constructions, actor networks, epistemologies, semiotics and narratives of those whose profession is the academic study of material culture and technology.

The tautological and even solipsistic implications of such an approach are not resisted by the volume itself. If anything it invites this approach, and its compliance provides the ethnographic reviewer with a place to start. This might be the following question: What is it about this object that so comprehensively situates (a signature term in the book) it in the ethnographic field of academic material culture and technology studies?

This comprehensive question can be broken down into four parts: What is the contribution’s escutcheon – how does it proclaim its identity and allegiance? Behind the escutcheon, what is its discourse model – how does its obvious organisation reveal its hegemonic aspect? And within that discourse model, what are the emergent qualities or entelechy implied by the book’s semiotic consistency, its concordance of terminologies – its dialect, if you like? And finally, what signs of power, ideology and management are visible within that concordance?

Such an approach is interesting not because it has satirical potential (though some of the book’s jargon lapses do invite that) but because it provides a way in to the issue of reflexivity in academic publication, and not just in the disciplines associated with sociology. The likelihood that a compilation like this might be effecting positive feedback to its own causes (or intentions) deserves the kind of critical attention empirical ethnography – surely an inherently sceptical practice – is well suited to provide.

The escutcheon
The collection is published by Peter Lang Publishing Group, specialists in the production and distribution of academic texts, from published PhD theses to substantial scholarly works, some of which are by individual writers, others (as here) edited as compilations of chapters by various hands. The publisher is not a commercial one in the conventional trade sense, in that by and large its economy is one where books circulate within their professional user communities of interest – communities the books represent (in several senses) as social constructs of those communities whose relationships the books also perform as agents.

The publisher’s brand values are represented on-line by images of antique art paper with deckle edges and an early twentieth century typewriter keyboard. Immediately behind these symbols of historical scholarly depth the user will find a suite of practical on-line forms with which to submit book proposals. The implication of the forms, which runs somewhat counter to the publisher’s antiqued brand identity, is that the Peter Lang Group does not commission and develop books; rather, it assesses proposals and subsequently processes manuscripts. Book production takes place in or close to the manuscript’s country of origin, which will often (as here) be where its editor is located. Sales and distribution take place on-line and appear to involve a significant print-on-demand option, which implies first print runs tailored to known markets, for example a book’s measurable community of interest, its use as a class text, and its library and archive subscriptions.

Often, the task of academic publishers such as Peter Lang or Brill Academic Publishers is to put into circulation texts whose contributions to scholarly discussion (in the case of book-length compilations of chapters) may have begun as conference papers. In this, the volume’s nearest relative is the peer-reviewed scholarly journal, including or even especially the user-pays e-journal; or even more modest compilations of un-refereed poster papers; rather than university press book titles competing for prestige (and prestigious authors) in wider markets. The publisher’s imprint, then, provides an early general marker of the ethnographic meaning and entelechy (another signature term) of compilations such as this.

The concordance
Theorists who might be cited in an ethnography of the object (or, indeed, technic) Material Culture and Technology in Everyday Life will be found in the book itself on a stretch between neo-Hegelians identifying effects of objectification, Durkheimian sociologists focused on social facts and the totemising of objects, and Bourdieusian analysts of social distinction and taste; and a second loosely-coupled group whose performance implies varying kinds and degrees of critique of the broad confederation of materialists. Chief among these are the proponents of what has become the intellectual entrepôt Actor Network Theory (ANT) whose main albeit sometimes unwilling administrator is the sociologist Bruno Latour. Also in the second group are social scientists who look at the politics of choice within the frameworks of SCOT (The Social Construction of Technology), in particular Latour again (but also Pinch included in this volume) and others; and a third component whose focus is narrative and the ways in which objects ‘make meaning’ or contribute to interactions through which meanings are made, including what is commonly known as ‘self-knowledge’. Though his shadow falls lightly on many parts of this book, it is in the context of narrative and meaning-making that Roland Barthes appears most cogently, and Woodward’s chapter in this compilation is grounded lucidly in the consequences of Barthesian semiotics. Other éminences grises include pragmatists and instrumentalists loosely associated with the Chicago Group, especially (in this volume) the symbolic interactionist George Herbert Mead in the early part of the twentieth century.

Signs of power, ideology and management
The volume’s citation span is wide but coherent and, in some respects, culturally managed; and includes all the above and many more contemporary extrapolators, whom the book therefore constitutes as its networked society (and, in publisher’s terms, its target market). One of the key cultural narratives enacted by the collection is, therefore, the networked nature of this society. Another way in which the collection is both narrated and enacts a cultural narrative, has to do with its clear theoretical agenda. This agenda – or thesis – involves urging the study of material culture in the direction of empirical ethnography, ethnography in the direction of objectification, and materialist approaches in the direction of the kinds of symbolic interactivity that have come to coalesce around ANT. Implied within this urging is an issue of agency: who is doing the polemic (and faintly ideological) urging, and why?

Staying with the issue of power and management, but moving in closer under the canopy of our overarching question (‘How does this book matter?’, or, ‘What is it about this object that so comprehensively situates it in the ethnographic field of academic material culture and technology studies?’) we find a further cascade of sub-questions. These include the standard SCOT question about the book’s politics: What choices does it enact and offer? Or, in ANT terms: how does it translate the agenda (or thesis, or urging) that has been generated within the network it performs?

Some hints are available in the collections’s overall plan and organisation. Its title already announces ethnographic approaches to the established disciplinary field of Material Culture studies. The implied question in this sub-title (‘What ethnographic approaches?’) is moved into view by Halton’s excellent, succinct Preface in which he unpacks an ethnographic encounter with a Chicago high-rise apartment dweller with a collection of over 300 flowering houseplants. Next, the volume’s editor, Vannini, lays out in his Introduction what is in effect a literature review which, we will find, describes the book’s tool-kit at the same time as it declares its polemic:

If bringing together the tradition of material culture studies and technology studies is a key concern of this book, so is achieving that goal through methodological and epistemological means that expose the meaningfulness and polysemy of materiality, and the potential of technological relations for shaping culture (and being shaped by it). For us [my emphasis] what that means is ethnography ... (p. 3)

The collection then proceeds to advance our cause in three sections: the first (‘Ways of Knowing the Material World’) consists of five chapters summarising theoretical approaches to the topic, most of which have been foreshadowed in Vannini’s Introduction; the second (‘Ethnographic Strategies of Representing the Material World’) has six chapters which describe ethnographic methodologies derived or devolved from field work informed by the kinds of theory adumbrated in the first section and, again, summarised in Vannini’s introductory literature review; and the third and final section (‘Ethnographic Studies’) consists of four examples of ethnographic field work in which the thesis, agenda, or polemic of Vannini’s Introduction and literature review, theoretical approaches of Part 1, and ethnographic methodologies of Part 2, are deployed in – converge and conclude at – actual ethnographic fieldwork case studies in material culture and technology in everyday life. This, then, in its overall structure, is a very carefully designed and managed – orchestrated – object. For the ethnographic reviewer, its design therefore raises interesting questions about agency and power regarding the ways the entity has been coached in its performance.

Within each section the chapters are discrete but also discursively linked in several ways. Vannini, for example, reiterates the polemic drive of his Introduction in his Chapter 5 by concluding that interactionist approaches to material technoculture have ‘the obvious potential of changing ethnography as a strategy of data collection, analysis, and representation’ (p. 83). Another kind of internal linkage is provided by internal citations or finger-post citations (‘See Vannini Chapter 5’). Chapters are, for the most part, organised in standard formats with propositions or theses, summaries of methodological and theoretical frameworks, thematic sub-headings, conclusions or summaries, notes, and (most importantly) substantial lists of references. In this, the volume resembles a practical handbook for students; indeed, it often reads like a compilation of the dutiful results of such a handbook.

Within the framework of the book’s overall structure and its managed advance from theory to praxis, an underlying discursive momentum is sustained through the repetitions of key or signature terminologies (the concordance), as well as citations and references that frequently refer back to the Introduction’s literature review. There are thematic links – for example considerations of what we mean by ‘creativity’ in both Merrill’s ethnography of home music recordists and Tilley’s of home gardeners. However, the most persistent iterative device returns the ethnographic reviewer to considerations of how this object has been coached (or carved, perhaps) in its performance – and, of course, to what end. There are frequent signs of editorial interpolation throughout, of which the most conspicuous are the internal, finger-post citations mentioned above; of these the majority are to the editor’s own chapters or publications.

In summary, on the strength of obvious as well as internal evidence, an ethnographic review of this volume must note its highly reflexive nature; and the marked extent to which its reflexivity provides positive feedback to its managing principal or editor, and his principles or editorial authority.

Chapters
Now to some matters of judgement that have no place in a review as ethnography. One of the opportunities afforded by the study of material culture in everyday life is its recovery from a focus on institutions, for example the institution of professional music recording, as noted by Merrill; and a consequent opportunity to look at the effects of interaction between professional and everyday practices. This is, indeed, a rich ethnographic field, from which this collection draws much of its interest. However there is also a downside, which is the risk of remaining trapped in the banality of the everyday; or of failing to accomplish what Barthes did, to (so to speak) make something of banality. Some of the contributors don’t cross this bar; these are often the most dutiful in their adherence to the approved forms of the chapters, to the most ubiquitous terminologies, references, and citations; and – conspicuously – these writers are also those who have engaged with the least ethnographically comprehensive research situations or scenarios.

Kien’s chapter on ANT is a thorough if compacted account of this somewhat heterogeneous tool-kit. It provides a number of steering devices, and at times resembles what film production managers would call a ‘bible’ – but it does so without losing its capacity for internal critical scrutiny. It also gets the term and concept of entelechy into circulation (it subsequently encounters Vannini’s distinction between determinism and consequentiality). Pinch’s chapter on SCOT is also significant to the book’s overall momentum, and provides some degree of critical tension with ANT, especially in respect of the possibility of ‘symmetry between humans and nonhumans’. (p.51) Kien also warns against the potential for triviality in ANT-style analysis, not unjustified as it turns out.

Woodward’s chapter on narrative begins with what may be the volume’s most succinct and coherent paragraphs, and one of its most lucid opening statements: ‘... material things are one part of culture and they do cultural work. Being good to think with, objects are cultural categories materialised’ (p.59). So much for any overcooked distinction between actions and ideas. Further along, in the collection’s second section on sampling methodologies, Woodward’s pragmatism is rewarded in Richardson & Third’s chapter on cultural phenomenology (despite what looks like some editorial carelessness in mis-locating an opening statement some three pages into the text). Introducing Merleau-Ponty’s useful concept of ‘corporeal schema’, the authors suggest that, ‘movement, mobility, motility and gesture are fundamental to our somatic involvement with the world, and integral to visual perception’ (p.146). It is fruitful to think about narrative in the context of such statements, as indeed in relation to ‘a regime of visibility that entails not just seeing with the eyes but with the whole body’ (p. 153).

I enjoyed Tilley’s contribution ‘What Gardens Mean’ in the ethnographic studies section not so much for its sensible conclusions about private gardens, but because he broke step with the volume’s prevailing style guide and wrote engagingly, without jargon, and with warmth and appreciation for his interviewees. ‘A gardener dwells ... inside the garden that he or she has created ... Thus in a metaphoric sense the gardener is inside himself or herself, in a garden body, underneath a garden skin’ (p.178). In addition, Tilley worked from a substantial interview sample of sixty-five, and paid that collective the respect of reproducing verbatim some of their own thoughts and statements about their gardens. One important effect of his approach – and, one might add, its slightly unfashionable humanism – was to open the window of his research to a wider world than the reflexively academic one by which this book is largely confined. Without wanting to ignite a pointless argument about alleged distinctions between ‘pure’ and ‘applied’ research, I have the sense that Tilley’s research matters and might make a difference in the world through that window: that it might inform town-planning policy, guide social development and therapeutic practices, enhance empathetic understandings of identity formation, and even the political economics of domestic ecologies.

The same can be said of Laviolette’s chapter ’the Death of the Clinic’, which could also be paraphrased as ‘taking the clinic home’. This has involved very substantial, professional and carefully designed research, in marked contrast to the slapdash and amateurish models used by some others in this volume. Looking back at Foucault for a place to launch a discussion of the clinic, and to Heidegger for some epistemological stretch, Laviolette’s piece builds a much broader and better informed philosophical platform than most of the others in this book. Informed also by a thorough knowledge of the volume’s concordance, he writes without jargon, and, to the relief of this reader, with humour. Like Tilley’s, Laviolette’s chapter clearly matters – it breaks the reflexive academic cycle of internalised positive feedback. ‘From this empirical study [of Telecare], I would appeal for the provision of a comprehensive overview of the use of interactive assistive technologies to support the intimate act of domestic medical care’ (p. 223). Such a statement has gone to work in the world first, and been reproduced in this book second. That makes it a refreshing and even salutary encounter here.

Conclusion
Almost conspicuous by its absence is a perfunctory Index. I, for one, have to wonder why more editorial attention wasn’t paid to such useful work. The Index is, almost blatantly and certainly reflexively, a concordance of the book’s iconic and therefore ideological terms. More attention, too, could have gone to the sourcing and incorporation of texts that did justice to de Certeau’s challenge to make something of the everyday; and a bit less attention to coaching the book in the performance of the editor’s emergent career.

That said, Vannini’s own Introduction and two chapters contribute substantially to the book, and while we may tire of his fingerprints we can’t deny the firmness of their grip. I am puzzled – but also intrigued and encouraged – by two issues in Vannini’s Chapter 5, his exploration of culture and technoculture as interaction. In downplaying ‘the importance of cognitive cultural dimensions such as values, beliefs, codes and ideas’ while emphasising ‘the materiality of the world of interaction’ (p.73), Vannini gets to the heart of the book’s thesis. But he also opens up the possibility of a dichotomous distinction between actions and ideas and, by implication, the kind of modernist distinction between mind and body the book is elsewhere at pains to refute. This would seem to be a fertile discussion opportunity which the book may open up subsequently. A second opportunity, also located in a paradox, arises from Vannini’s discussion of diffused agency, not only a dynamic and useful concept in its own right but also central to the book’s overall drive and focus. Warning against the danger of reintroducing elements of determinism or even animism to the discussion of materiality and agency, he suggests that ‘the true characteristic of materiality is not its essence, but instead its consequentiality, thus its agency.’ (p. 78) One would have to wonder, here, about the possibility of slippage between ‘determinism’ and ‘consequentiality’ – a critical discussion that took Vannini’s emphatic distinction as its starting point might prove fruitful.

August 15, 2009

Looking Good

David Sutton, Dept.of Anthropology, Southern Illinois Univ. Carbondale

Cristina Grasseni 2009. Developing Skill, Developing Vision: Practices of Locality at the Foot of the Alps. (European Anthropology in Translation ). Oxford: Berghahn.
ISBN 978-1-84545-537-8 Hb $70.00/£45.00

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Cristina Grasseni’s new book, part of Berghahn’s “European Anthropology in Translation” series, illustrates how far anthropology and the tradition of European community studies has moved from studies of villages to studies in villages (to paraphrase Geertz). The keywords of Grasseni’s study are not the old social norms , values and mechanisms, nor even “identity” per se, but rather skill, enskillment, and practices of vision. Inspired most directly by the Phenomenology of Ingold and the Actor-Network Theory of Latour, Grasseni explores the ways that cattle breeders, in and around the mountain village of Vedeseta in the Valtaleggio region of the Italian Alps, go about the process of learning, transmitting and adapting their practices against a background of shifting social norms, EU regulations and global shifts in breeding knowledge, practice and evaluation. She is most directly interested in practices of looking and seeing, and how they are inflected by local and global systems of meaning and moral evaluation.

Developing Skill, Developing Vision, then, doesn’t read like a traditional ethnography, but rather an ethnographically-grounded series of reflections on issues of method and theory in anthropological understandings of the role of skilled, sensorily embodied practice in human collective life and relations with the environment. While focused on the practices of a group of cattle-breeders living in Vedeseta, Grasseni does not take “place” as a stable point for her analysis, but rather sees it as “an unfolding practice of belonging…an event rather than…a location” (38), which is, in fact, reproduced and reinvented in the process of adapting “local” skills and practices to “surviv[al] in the global market” (184).

Methodologically, Grasseni’s book explores interesting questions about the use of visual anthropology techniques in studying skilled vision. She analyses her own evolving use of video, critiquing some of the embedded assumptions of disappearing worlds that seemed to be inseparable from ethnographic film, moving to a more reflexive use of video which argues that anthropological participant-observation must be understood as an “apprenticeship of the eye.” As she writes (91):

"The filmic anthropology could not just be about stressing the image-storing capacity of recording technologies, but rather about using them as facilitators for the ethnographer’s access into a structured perceptual environment. I am claiming that an apprencticeship of the eye can further our ethnographic understanding of how practice and skills construct identities. This training of perception is intrinsic to the social structuring of practice, and is achieved by attuning oneself to the rhythms and sensitivities of a complex environment".

Thus, in attempting to capture the breeders’ “skilled vision” through her camera, Grasseni was gaining an apprenticeship, or an “education of attention” (as Ingold calls it), in how to properly look at cattle. By attending to the ways that cattle breeders showed her how to look, how they themselves used video and other recording media as part of their training in how to see their cattle, and reproducing the important distinctions in cattle breed, Grasseni doesn’t reject vision as Western and imperialist, but moves toward understanding it as part of a multisensory practice. She illustrates these notions, and leads into the analysis that follows, by showing how breeders in looking at fellow breeders’ stables, derive information about their skill, their network of information about the availability of bull semen, their adaptation of industrial architecture to the demands of mountain farming, their political connections that allowed them to work bureaucracies for proper permissions. In other words, in a description that recalled to me Alfred Gell’s notion of abducted agency, she argues that skilled vision reveals the display of “a large network of people and competencies supporting their enterprise, weaving the ‘traditional’ skills of cattle rearing, milking and cheese-making together with the ‘new’ skills of trading in genetically evaluated cattle, milking in high-tech parlours and securing state aid” (96).

The second half of the book gives a detailed description and analysis of these interrelated processes. Grasseni is particularly concerned to think through notions of changing skill in relation to so-called ‘traditional’ and ‘modern’ practices of breeding, taking up tensions in the discussions of Ingold and Latour as to whether global, abstract, capitalist processes lead to a decline of sensorily embodied skills or a transfer of skills from tool-using humans to black-boxed technologies. She examines these questions through key points in the process of cattle farming: the process of breeding, the milking parlour, and the production and marketing of “traditional” cheese.

In considering selective breeding, Grasseni describes the role of expert knowledge and standardizing artefacts in creating the international standards which discipline the vision of the community of practice of breeders and farmers. These artefacts include the forms and tables which breeders must fill out to evaluate cattle, which make possible the “partitioning gaze” and the quantification of the animal into a set of traits that allow the cattle to be compared “according to a single standard of reference, through numbers and listings that are published and circulated on the internet” (141). They also include the trophy cow replicas and toy cows which circulate in the community, the ubiquity and everydayness of which allow for the inculcation of values in relation to the proper appearance of cattle. And they include social occasions such as the cattle fairs, which allow for the display of expertise and the further solidification of the criteria for judging animals.

She also explores the tensions between aesthetics and functionality, and the universalizing, abstracting criteria of genetics and quantifiable morphology with the “concrete contexts” by which farmers make judgments about the appropriateness of cattle to particular conditions and “assumptions about what is virtuous knowledge and what makes virtuous conduct for a breeder” (159-160). Genetics, for example, is seen as providing a blueprint for the production of high quality cattle, but Grasseni shows that there is much taken on faith in investing ones resources in the discourse and knowledge of genetics—outcomes are based on all sorts of “local” and non-specifiable factors that used to be considered part of a breeder’s “instinct” (149). This insight provides a model for the relationship between “expert” and “local” knowledge more generally, as it is negotiated by the farmers of the Valtaleggio. But this doesn’t mean that these approaches are on a level playing field. Here, as below, farmers are forced to balance the high value given to discourses and practices of so-called “modernity” with the advantages of local knowledge and so-called “tradition,” and the moral and aesthetic commitments that go with an emplaced sense of cattle rearing practice.

In the case of the milking parlour, Grasseni shows that the mechanization of aspects of the milking process does not lead to a diminution of human skills. Even if certain senses, such as the vision to monitor the processes of milking rather than the more tactile aspects of hand milking, suggest a distancing or perhaps even alienation of humans and cows, Grasseni suggests that farmers still value the skills required in “a competent response to the animals’ reactions, needs and idiosyncrasies…Guiglielmo insists that each cow is different and that one needs to know how to bend the machine to her idiosyncrasies” (121), thus arguing for the ongoing “intimate relationship between milkers and cows” in the mechanized milking parlour.

Similarly, and recalling Latour’s work on laboratory life, Grasseni shows in the cheese making process the need for apprenticeship and interpretation even in the process of reading a “standardizing” device such as a thermometer (125). She concludes that “there is no zero-sum game of skill and technology by which an increase of technology means a decrease in skill in absolute terms. Here, however, Grasseni’s ethnography of such aspects of the cheese-making process seems a bit thin, and might be usefully read in conjunction with Heather Paxson’s (2008) work on this topic.

Indeed, Grasseni’s interest in cheese making focuses more on how changes in the presentation of the process are being made in response to EU hygiene regulations and tourist interest in “local” food products. Grasseni argues that much of the “skill” involved resides in the farmer’s capacity “to adapt or calibrate standard procedures to local recipes and ‘traditional tastes’” (128). It becomes a balancing act for farmers to package the cheese, in fancy, evocative wrapping, and “package” themselves, in videos and documentaries designed for urban and tourist consumption, as practicioners of a “local” tradition in close contact with an outsider’s nostalgic imagining of nature and peasant life, while still adapting to and adopting many aspects of current technology, standardization and bureaucratic demands. “Idyllic landscapes and pasteurized milk!” as Grasseni summarizes. While this part of Grasseni’s argument will be familiar to those in tourism studies or in food studies, she usefully traces how the ability to preserve “local” identity resides in the ability to smoothly negotiate and adapt to “global” bureaucratic protocols and capitalist markets. Thus, she stresses the irony that “local” products often imply much more than “local” skills (187).

I recommend this book to readers of this weblog interested in a rich ethnographic engagement with some of the key issues of materiality, skill, the senses and emplacement arising from the work of Ingold and Latour, and from the concerns of apprenticeship studies and visual anthropology. At the same time, it is an important contribution to revitalizing European community studies by combining concerns about place and identity with these other contemporary theoretical trends.

It would have been interesting for Grasseni to compare her work with that of Sarah Franklin (e.g. 2007) and others working on genetics and animal breeding in anthropology and science and technology studies, but this is a minor omission in an otherwise impressive ethnography. There are a few frustrating bibliographical errors in the text (for example, the oft-cited “Ingold 1993c” does not appear in the bibliography); whether such omissions are the fault of the author, or of publishers’ increasing laxity in copy editing is another matter. Overall, Berghahn is to be commended for its series on “European Anthropology in Translation.” If Skilled Vision is a representative example, I will be eagerly awaiting its forthcoming volumes.

References
Franklin, Sarah. 2007. Dolly Mixtures: The Remaking of Genealogy. Durham, NC: Duke Univ. Press.

Paxson, Heather. 2008. Post-Pasteurian Cultures: The Microbiopolitics of Raw Milk Cheese in the U.S. Cultural Anthropology. 23(1):15-47.

July 30, 2009

Material Markets

Haidy Geismar, NYU

Browsing in the British Library I came across this book, right next to Danny Miller's The Comfort of Things (2008).

D. Mackenzie's Material Markets: How Economic Agents are Constructed explores the nature of hedge funds, derivative markets, asking how abstract economic principles are brought into being and taking the assumption, drawn from STS studies, of the materiality of markets, "their physicality, corporeality, technicality" as a basic starting point (p.2). Taking this emphasis on materiality allows Mackenzie and his collaborators to inject an ethnographically inflected understanding of human agency into the economics of the finance industries: rather than disembodied agents or abstract information processors economic agents are "embodied human beings, and bodies are material entities." (p.3). The study positions people, the technology that they work with, and the abstract ideas that guide them as equal partners in forming the analysis.

Mackenzie outlines ten precepts for the social study of finance, which guide his method and which are useful to abstract for any ethnographic study of modern bureaucracy:
1. Facts Matter; 2. Actors are embodied; 3. Equipment matters; 4. Cognition and Calculatio are distributed and Material; 5. Actors are Agencements (a clunky notion drawn from Deleuze, and Callon which delineates the complex material-social nexus that makes up an social actor, here in the field of economics); 6. Classification and Rule Following are Finitist Processes; 7. Economics Does Things; 7. Innovation isn't Linear; 8. Market Design is a Political Matter; 10. Scales aren't stable.

I confess to not reading the entire volume, but enjoying what I did read (the intro and the chapter on derivatives). the chapters are short, they aren't what you might call ethnographic or anthropological, in that they provide summaries and overviews, but are clear and cogent in making this world accessible in a broad sociological framework. The material perspective could be followed up a little more, the focus is much more on the people and discourses than on a real scrutiny on equipment and technology.

Subsequent chapters examine the assemblage of economic actors in hedge funds, the production of virtuality in derivatives markets, the material sociology of arbitrage, the process of measuring profit, and the process of constructing emissions markets..

It's a good introduction to the working of financial markets and good methodological model for translating STS and Anthropological critiques of economics and finance into a workable perspective...In a similar frame to Olag Velthuis's work on the symbolic construction of price in art markets

July 20, 2009

Seeing Things

Daniel Miller, UCL

Review of: Seeing Things: Deepening relations with visual artefacts. S. Pattison 2007, Canterbury: SCM Press. (292 pages). ISBN-10: 033404149X

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I received this book by Stephen Pattison pretty much out of the blue. I was intrigued to see that the author was a theologian, a Professor of religion at the University of Birmingham. It is published by SCM press and since I have not seen any reviews of it, and otherwise would probably not have come across it, it seemed likely to remain fairly obscure outside of the teaching of theology. I think this would be a pity, and what I intend to do here is provide a brief summary of its contents, rather than a conventional review, just to make sure that this blog can do its own work to help bring research and ideas to people with common interests and concerns.

Actually the more one reads this book the more one sees that the author has deliberately been fairly reticent in taking any kind of theological perspective, which is largely left to the final chapter. Instead what we have is a rather clear introduction to the study of visual and material culture that certainly deserves to be considered as a good and useful introductory textbook on these subjects. It starts by reflecting on the devaluation of the material and visual in theology, and our more general tendency to treat the visual and material as merely the dead in opposition to the human. The agenda set out in the first chapter is an appeal to a much more respectful acknowledgment that our relationship to things and images are indeed relationships and the visual in particular should be rescued from cold isolation to be seen as linked to the sensual appreciation of the world more generally. He is also concerned to move from conventional theological reductions of the visual mainly to an interest in art and iconography to the much wider field of visual and material culture.

The main text starts by addressing various approaches to sight and vision and then promoting the ideal of a more haptic notion of vision embracing this wider sensory experience and particularly reconnecting seeing and touching. In chapter three he turns to various approaches to the image including writers such as Pinney and Taussig as well as more conventional religious imagery. While chapter four acknowledges the suspicion and sometimes denigration of the image in both Western philosophy and Western religion. By contrast chapter five looks at the factors which allow us to grant power to images, firstly contextual factors for example sacralisation, and then in chapter six factors thought to be inherent in the object including texture and colour but also semiotic features such as indexical qualities that create a relational bond.

Up to now the text has been dominated by visual culture and relatively conventional images, but chapter seven moves towards more general issues of material culture and the constraints on seeing relations to objects as somehow personal relations. This he sees as to some degree overcome by modern material culture theory which he reviews. Chapter eight then takes up recent approaches, such as from Latour, that question the conventional dualism between subjects and object. He considers the various ways objects could be considered to speak to us, focusing upon the case study of the photograph. Chapter nine then critiques the more obvious ways we might see objects as reanimated, including religious, magical and romantic ideals of animation. Instead he follows pretty much through to the centre of contemporary material culture theory by arguing for the need to respect the role of objects in simply making us human, and thereby recognising further the way artefacts in some measure participate in the moral community of society.

Although he doesn’t quote Simmel there is a similar sense in this work that the author hopes that the cultivation of a depth of relationship with specific objects will help lead us away from what might otherwise be the more superficial relationships we cultivate with a plethora of things. Chapter ten return us to his haptic vision of how people might enact these close and deeper relationships with visual and material culture creating what he calls joyous attachment. Finally in chapter eleven he considers the specific stance of Protestant Christianity to these issues, starting form its fear of idolatry, asceticism and disembodied spirituality. To overcome these he envisages a new positive theology of artefacts including a kind of Biblical holism that recognises our materiality and that of the world. He sees this as in the tradition of figures such as William Blake or the Shakers in their respect for the mundane things around them. He includes an intriguing metaphor of the world as God’s body and ends with an appeal to re-sight Christianity.

What struck me in reading this volume is not anything especially novel in its contribution, but rather how well it works as an introductory text book, because I can’t think of another book that covers the same ground in the same way. The stance seems entirely in accordance with contemporary approaches to visual and material culture as represented by many entries to this blog. The writing is generally clear and scholarly. I hope this brief summary is sufficient to show why I think it would be a pity to ignore a book which has very likely done us all some favours in introducing our perspective to peoples and debates few of us are likely to reach. Although in that sense it is also a complement to the journal Material Religion which is rapidly developing a very high reputation for the quality of its papers. In fact I confess that in the end my slight disappointment was actually with the author’s reticence with respect to theology itself. That for those of us already perhaps rather too comfortably settled within material and visual culture a more full throttled engagement from theology might actually have been of still greater interest - but perhaps that may come in time.

February 22, 2009

Pasifika Styles: Artists inside the museum

Amiria Salmond, Cambridge Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology

Pasifika Styles. 2008. Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, Cambridge, in association with Otago University Press. ISBN 978-1-877372-60-5


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Francis Upritchard, Sports Heads (2005). Photo: Kerry Brown

This book explores the making of the Pasifika Styles exhibition (Cambridge, UK, 2006-2008) from the perspectives of artists, art historians and academics.

Pasifika Styles was the first major exhibition of contemporary Maori and Pacific Island art in Great Britain. The show featured the work of contemporary artists from New Zealand whose work responded to Maori and Pacific Island cultural issues and influences. Located in a museum, in and amongst historical ethnographic artefacts, it aimed to challenge assumptions about art and about culture in the Pacific, emphasizing continuities and connections as well as contemporary innovations.

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George Nuku, Outer Space Marae (2006). Photo: Kerry Brown

The show (like the book) was a labour of love on the part of everyone involved, and generated lots of publicity in New Zealand (the opening featured on prime time news and it was the subject of two separate documentaries commissioned by Maori Television). Strangely, however, critical attention has been hard to come by - the Museums Journal tried unsuccessfully to get it reviewed, and the fine arts press in the UK and New Zealand were virtually silent on the topic.

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Rosanna Raymond, Eye land Part II: Welcome 2 da K’lub (2006)


Why? As one of its curators, and co-editor of this volume (with Rosanna Raymond) I think the show wasn't able (despite our intentions) to break out of the 'ethnic art' box to which it was assigned (perhaps inevitably, because of its location in an ethnography museum). For us it was a platform on which a group of artists (not all of whom were of Polynesian descent) could present their work and commentate on contemporary issues (including conventions of ethnographic representation), but for others it was clearly another case of a museum trying to update itself by inviting 'indigenous' artists to add their 'cultural' art to the collections. ('Real' contemporary art being, of course, culturally unmarked, or rather marked by ethnic signifiers that are sufficiently abstracted, used ironically, or have been critically sanctioned - think 'the New Chinese Art' etc.)

Can Pacific Art ever avoid this problem?

These issues and others are discussed in the various contributions to our book. All feedback gratefully received!

January 25, 2009

The Carver and the Artist

Ross Hemera, SVMC, Massey University

Review of The Carver and the Artist: Maori Art in the Twentieth Century
By Damian Skinner. Auckland: Univ. Press. 2008
ISBN: 9781869403737. 224pp. 142 Plates, glossary, index. $NZ 99.99

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E nga mana
E nga waka
Nga Hau e wha
Kia ora koutou katoa
Nga mihinui ki a koutou
No reira
Tena koutou, tena koutou, tena koutou katoa

In January 1973, as a shy young man from the small North Otago high country village of Omarama, I arrived at Epsom Secondary Teachers College, Auckland. With not much more than artistic passion I was completely anonymous in the big city. Although of Ngai Tahu decent I was culturally naïve, with little understanding of Maori language. I thought that Maori art was photographs of carvings in history books.

Not long after arriving I came to the notice of two leaders in the field. As a young secondary school art teacher trainee Dame Georgina Kirby took me under her wing and Arnold Wilson became my mentor. They introduced me to a Maori arts impetus bursting with creative energy and enthusiastic people. I later learned that this creative community had gained its momentum as a result of the inaugural gathering of the New Zealand Maori Artists and Writers Society at Te Kaha in 1973. Becoming part if this extended Maori art family had a major impact on me and although my art continued to follow references to cubism and expressionism, I soon became familiar with Maori cultural values. I began to realise the importance of identifying as Maori and the significance of networking concepts like whanui (community) and whanaungatanga (kinship).

By 1975 I was a regular member at gatherings of the Auckland Branch of the Maori Artist and Writers Society and in 1976 attended the annual hui at Taurua Marae in Rotoiti. From this point on I found myself totally immersed in a Maori art renaissance, a phenomenon that helped define the shape of Maori art as we know it today. I am referring to the organisation of Maori artists that extended right throughout New Zealand during the 1970s, 80s and 90s known as Nga Puna Waihanga. As a consequence of the kotahitanga (unity) inherent in this community, I began my engagement with Maori culture, started my awareness in te reo and embarked on developing a practice in Maori focused creative arts.

I consider myself uniquely privileged to have developed a personal kaupapa (methodology) alongside so many inspirational and talented people. The Nga Puna Waihanga community advocated “unity in the arts”, “understanding in and through the arts” and “fellowship of artists” (Nga Puna Waihanga 1993, p. 3). The Nga Puna Waihanga legacy is that it did not discriminate between traditional or contemporary art. This theme is referred to throughout the Society’s publication, ‘Maori Artists of the South Pacific’. The book includes traditional whakairo carvers Tuti Tukaokao and Pakariki Harrison, traditional weavers such as Rangimarie Hetet and Digger Te Kanawa side by side with contemporary artists such as Paratene Matchitt, Ralph Hotere and Buck Nin. It was also this legacy that assisted in paving the way for the creation of Ihenga, the whare whakairo at Waiariki Institute of Technology (previously Waiariki Polytechnic) carved by Lyonel Grant in 1996.

As Head of Visual Arts at Waiariki Polytechnic between 1983 and 1994 I was responsible for developing a Maori focused programme. Much of the philosophical basis for this programme came straight from the Nga Puna Waihanga ‘handbook’, as it were. As a graduate of the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, Lyonel Grant was appointed to lead teaching in the wood studio. His appointment reinforced a community based kaupapa (plan) and creative fellowship in the arts.

More recently I have continued to develop a deeper appreciation of the context and complexity of Maori visual and material culture and where my own creative practice fits within it. Although no longer operative, the Nga Puna Waihanga kaupapa about collective aspirations still rings true. Consequently, when thinking about Maori art, mine is a view from within and, in the main, is felt rather than studied - experienced rather than theorised.

Against this background I am intrigued with an entirely different perspective regarding Maori art. While his credentials are impeccable and his investigation entirely credible, it is from the ‘outside’ that Damian Skinner examines Maori art. He is, after all, an art historian not a practitioner, using a pakeha view to describe Maori art.

In ‘The Carver and the Artist: Maori Art in the Twentieth Century’ Skinner introduces novel perspectives on how Maori art may be appreciated. The book concentrates on the period from Aprirana Ngata’s leadership direction, for meeting house construction in the 1920s through to Lyonel Grant’s creative work in Ihenga meeting house at Wairiki Polytechnic in 1996. Skinner uses an art historian orientated construction as a means of describing and categorising different aspects in this history.

The book sets out to examine and clarify the differences indicated in the title. The inference is that two divergent practices operate within the ambit of 20th century Maori Art. Skinner lays out his framework over the top of this period, introducing us to the Maoritanga carver and the Maori modernist artist. While Skinner publishes against a somewhat scant literary background, we must remember that a “grassroots” vocabulary, used by the Maori artists’ community, has long been considered an appropriate way to describe these differences. Over the last 35 years or so Maori practitioners have commonly referred to these differences by the use of the term ‘traditional’ and its inferred opposite ‘contemporary’. The term traditional is employed frequently in the book ‘Maori Artists of the South Pacific’. For instance, “Pakariki Harrison claims to be a traditional carver…” (Mataira 1984, p. 31) and Tuti Tukaokao “…is required to work within the confines of the traditional mode…”(Mataira 1984, p. 39). In the booklet ‘Te Moana’, produced by Nga Puna Waihanga, a succinct use of these terms provides a further example. The second kaupapa (principle) objective reads, “To evaluate the contemporary artists’ movements against the solid background of cultural traditions and heritage” (Nga Puna Waihanga 1993, p. 2).

Continue reading "The Carver and the Artist" »

January 10, 2009

Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Highlands

By Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington
2010: University of California Press.

Review by Emily Yates-Doerr, NYU Anthropology

A half-dozen strips of white, greasy fat, with a few thin lines of blood-red flesh running through them— this is the image on the cover of Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Islands. One can’t, perhaps, judge a book by its cover. But in the case of Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington’s latest book – which could easily become a food studies classic – the cover is instructive. The authors suggest that the appearance of this cheap meat typically elicits a response of disgust. Moreover it is this common response that makes flaps an unusual material commodity as they resist Marx’s notion of fetishization (the straightforward equation of value with price). Instead of appearing as disconnected from the processes of production through which they emerge, the image of the “cheap, fatty, and undesirable cut of meat… evokes the labor processes of killing and dismembering that went into them” (p. 27). Flaps additionally, Gewertz and Errington argue, resist fetishization of consumption; because they are a widely stigmatized meat, they do not hide, but draw attention to the persisting inequalities between those who eat and those who eschew the fatty meat. Flaps, already embroiled in local controversies, “encourage people to think about the broader historical relationships that make them” (p. 28).
In this easily readable, but nonetheless ambitious book, Gewertz and Errington apply their longstanding interest in change in Papua New Guinea to the controversies surrounding the sale and purchase of lamb and mutton fat among, what they call, “Flap Food Nations.” They suggest that flaps embody numerous ambiguities about post-colonial relations between the Pacific Islands (specifically Papua New Guinea, Fiji, and Tonga) and Australia and New Zealand. Although they are a tasty and important source of nutrition for many Pacific Islanders, they are also widely seen as “by-products”, “dumped” upon the poor by wealthier nations. Furthermore, given an escalating incidence of obesity in the Pacific Islands, flaps – themselves more than 50% fat – have come to represent the high prevalence of dietary related illnesses: diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, etc. Gewertz and Errington suggest that because of their complicated symbolism, flaps function akin to totems, marking group membership— in this case third world eaters and first world refusers. This totemic quality of flaps additionally references inextricable relations of dependency, indexing those who live in a second-rate modernity in which they reply upon a second-rate source of food.
Cheap Meat follows “the flow of flaps” (p. 8) in order to explore how a “cheap, fatty meat ends up only in certain places and only in certain bodies” (p. 40). The authors begin their exploration of the “global omnivore’s dilemma” (118) – that is, how to chose what to eat – in New Zealand and Australia, countries where flaps are either rejected or used for pet food. Gewertz and Errington are refreshingly transparent about their methodologies and always forthright about the complexities of their anthropological commitments. They carefully detail their visits to (dis)assembly slaughterhouses, where low-value flaps are separated from high value loins and racks (flaps are the only part of the sheep that needs no further processing, and, because they are a “cheap meat,” they are simply sawed apart and stuffed into bags or cartons without regard for aesthetic presentation). Although flaps constitute just 3-5% of a carcass’s value, because margins of profit for meat production are low, flaps must be sold for the producers to make money. Rather than demonize the “middle men” of the meat trade who are responsible for arranging the export of “cheap meat” to poorer Pacific Island countries, Gewertz and Errington describe the traders they interview as “the commercial corollary of anthropologists” (p. 54). To achieve desired sales, these traders – many of whom operate “at the bottom of the market” (p. 70) – are required to cultivate considerable knowledge about and ties within the communities where they work.
By the second half of the book, when this multi-sited study of globalism moves to the Pacific Islands, the authors have succinctly presented their readers with an important history of the recent origins of the production and inter-island trade of flaps. This history illuminates another ambiguity entailed in the sale of flaps: unlike many “traditional,” so-called “ethnic” fatty foods (lardo in Italy, chitlins in the US south, or even the brined brisket consumed in the Papua New Guinea), flaps are a recently introduced commodity without much cultural cache. Gewertz and Errington carefully point out that poorer Pacific Islanders depend upon flaps as a source of affordable calories, that street venders rely upon their sale, and that many of their informants (surveyed in their study by local anthropology students) described flaps as enjoyable, convenient, and filling. Yet their informants overwhelmingly viewed flaps as sub-par to the local delicacy of pig, and even those Pacific Islanders who depend on flaps for sustenance saw them as a troubling representation of the structural inequalities between first world producers and third world consumers. As the authors write: “Papua New Guineans do know – and do remain concerned by the fact – that lamb and mutton flaps are rejected by white people” (p. 108). Although Australian and New Zealand producers defended their trade with statements such as, “One person’s trash was bound to be another’s treasure” (p. 73), Pacific Islanders were unsettled by their consumption of goods they knew others had rejected. In exploring this controversy, Cheap Meat convincingly demonstrates that in the case of flaps, “Conversion of trash to treasure may become, over time, an increasingly compromised alchemy” (p. 95).
In the last two chapters of the book (“Pacific Island Flaps” and “One Supersize Does Not Fit All”) the authors engage most directly with the public health crisis that shadows their study. They use two Pacific Islands as case studies: Fiji, which banned the sale of flaps in 2000, and Tonga, where public health officials estimate that 60% of those aged 15 and older are obese. In Fiji, the government began to regulate against flaps as a means to protect the health of its citizens (despite the challenge this ban posed to the neoliberal free-trade stipulations of the World Trade Organization, it was locally defended as a public-health corollary to other countries’ regulations of food safety). While the authors raise important questions about potential limits of public health, and point out that the ban has done little to curtail rates of obesity and may have even harmed those who are undernourished and protein-deprived, they also laud the Fijian government for showing itself to be “committed to and capable of” taking steps to address the public health concerns of its citizens (p. 119).
Gewertz and Errington explore numerous public health measures aimed at obesity prevention in Fiji and Tonga. For example, they describe a televised public health commercial that follows flaps as they move from congealed fat to a blocked artery to a man’s stroke. They also detail a church scene where a Pentecostal preacher publically weighs his parishioners while encouraging them to treat their bodies as temples of God. Their analysis entails a trenchant critique of the “just do it” (152) narratives of consumer choice and individual responsibility that drive many discussions of obesity prevention. They point out that given widespread (and increasing) market inequalities, not all citizens have the same range of opportunities and so not all consumers are equally capable of making “healthy” choices. In the beginning of Cheap Meat, the authors said that due to the ethical concerns underlying their research they felt obligated to weigh in with policy recommendations. It is at the end of the book that they do so, and they conclude their study by suggesting that while it would be unreasonable to expect first world countries (New Zealand and Australia) to restrict their export of flaps, poorer countries like Tonga or Fiji should not be prevented from taking actions – perhaps in the form of food bans – to protect the public health of their citizens. “Good food choices,” they suggest, “must be made as easy as possible” (p. 164).
Overall, Cheap Meat is a compelling and informative read, which could be assigned to undergraduate courses on culture and food in any discipline. It would also complement introductory anthropology course syllabi, as it cogently engages with the dilemmas confronting modern-day multi-sited ethnographic research. In studying the global flows of a commodity food across numerous nations, and by linking this food to the weight and health of people’s bodies, the authors are, admittedly, tackling a huge project. Any one of their chapters might have been an entire study, and the book as a whole is a formidable analysis of a complex and increasingly significant public health concern. Because of this, I will not provide concluding criticism typical of book reviews, but will instead suggest areas that might be elaborated upon in further research.
My research on the “nutrition transition” in Guatemala focuses on perceptions of dietary health and changing corporeal ideals, and – likely because of this – the sections of Cheap Meat that I found especially compelling were those that explored the local dilemmas that Pacific Islanders have experienced in their reliance on the consumption of “cheap meat.” While the authors argue that fatty meat is stigmatized (even among people who enjoy it), further research might usefully explore whether, and in what circumstances, this stigmatization extends to fat bodies. We learn that the former King of Tonga was the “world’s most enormous monarch” (p. 50) weighing in at up to 462 pounds. We are also told that the corporeal bulk of PNG politicians indexes their power and privilege (even if illegitimate and disproportionate). The authors suggest that fatness among the Mari was amusing and a source of “good natured banter” (113). In all of these descriptions fatness has positive and even desirable connotations. Yet they also tell us that an estimated 15% of girls in Fiji – caught between familial pressures to eat, and societal and governmental pressures for thinness – are reported to have “patterns of disordered eating” (p. 140). It would be interesting to examine the circumstances through which body fat becomes undesirable, and the strategies of weight management employed in response. If Pacific Island elite, who can afford “luxury” low-calorie foods, have begun to diet, how is this affecting post-colonial understandings of what constitutes proper eating, proper body form, and – by extension – inclusion in national bodies?
In this vein, further studies might explore existing and emerging national stratifications that form around fat meat and fat bodies. The authors describe flaps as embodying a “diffuse social anxiety” about the international inequalities between first and third world countries. To what degree might they also embody, or come to embody, anxieties about local inequalities? I also wonder: Although thinness and health are increasingly conflated in public discourse, is weight regulation in fact becoming the individualized moral problem in the Pacific Islands that is it in many western countries? While the authors devote critical attention to public health and commercial discourses that frame consumption of fatty meat as a “lifestyle” matter and encourage individual responsibility, further studies might explore how these understandings of fat are actually taken up in people’s lives and everyday practices. Given the longstanding anthropological emphasis on Melanesian relationality, it would be instructive to know how Pacific Islanders are adopting, resisting, or transforming public health narratives of personal responsibility.
Finally, I would like to learn more about the understandings of dietary and bodily health that exist in the rural communities where many of the now-urban field informants of Cheap Meat originate. Gewertz and Errington briefly discuss notions of care in Fiji, where a local word, Vikawaitaki, implies food exchange and feeding and is understood to emerge in bodily form. Vikawaitaki (care) both figuratively and materially “marks the body with the record of its success” (p. 139). Given that global public health programs often standardize terms like “health,” “care,” “nourishment,” “nutrition,” and “diet,” an exploration of the local nuances of these ideas – as well as the practices through which they gain their meanings – in places where public health campaigns are still marginal, strikes me as a potentially valuable extension to what is already a valuable and impressive study.

January 7, 2009

Colin Turnbull's MC legacies

Patrick Laviolette, SVMC, Massey University

Book review of: Grinker, Roy Richard, In the Arms of Africa: The Life of Colin M. Turnbull. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2001 [2000]. xii + 368 pp.

The famous anthropologist Colin Turnbull began to establish himself in the US through his first post as the African curator for the American Museum of Natural History in New York. Even though he trained in Britain and his work has of course had significant impact in Europe and Africa, Roy Richard Grinker's biography of Turnbull convincingly shows us how he has been much more influential to cultural anthropology and material culture studies in America rather than anywhere else.

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This cross-Atlantic connection in Turnbull's work is interesting in itself however. It reflects of course the internationalization as well as professionalization of the discipline from its ‘imperial/colonial’ heartland. A further reconciliation comes through from his Oxford training and doctoral field site in Africa both of which were archetypical of post Second World War UK anthropology (Goody 1995). Like Mary Douglas though, it is important to note that Turnbull’s research was in a Belgian territory and thus outside the direct influence of the British Colonial Office. Additionally Turnbull’s Scots/Irish identity does come in to play at times in Grinker’s text, even though we are shown how his real personal development after his initial immersive fieldwork is completely tangled up with his New York cosmopolitan lifestyle, his Virginian retirement home life and a renewed field persona involving his partner.

Grinker reminds us many times that Turnbull’s life and ideas were more often than not ahead of their time. What is significant for those of us interested in contemporary material culture studies is the way in which Grinker makes it obvious that Turnbull should be seen as a highly significant predecessor of this area. His museum curating in New York; his involvement in the production of the theatrical production of Les Iks; and the relationship that he helped establish between art/drama and anthropology are all good examples. Grinker incisively points out the possible connection to Turnbull’s Oxford training under Evans-Pritchard here, whereby anthropology began to be formulated as a humanities subject which had much more affinity with the arts than the sciences (p.235).

Grinker adopts a popular non-academic style with a number of literary devices to keep the attention of the average undergraduate. The text is easy to read, with a bounty of gossip, suspense and generalisations about the discipline. At times the story is remarkably captivating in relation to the many debates that Turnbull was shrouded in. But overall the book comes up short in terms of the presentation of wider conceptual and theoretical substance. Grinker nevertheless makes many observations which are considerably astute, if overtly dilute and lacking in elaborative discursive context. Early on he suggests that part of Turnbull’s fame resulted from writing about experiences and feelings that were more universal than was the case for most of his more traditional ‘scientifically’ minded colleagues. Yet it is not until the end of the book that he is even vaguely critical of the fact that Turnbull left little by way of significant contribution to the theoretical development of social anthropology or museology.

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January 1, 2009

Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Highlands

By Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington
2010: University of California Press.

Review by Emily Yates-Doerr, NYU Anthropology

A half-dozen strips of white, greasy fat, with a few thin lines of blood-red flesh running through them— this is the image on the cover of Cheap Meat: Flap Food Nations in the Pacific Islands. One can’t, perhaps, judge a book by its cover. But in the case of Deborah Gewertz and Frederick Errington’s latest book – which could easily become a food studies classic – the cover is instructive. The authors suggest that the appearance of this cheap meat typically elicits a response of disgust. Moreover it is this common response that makes flaps an unusual material commodity as they resist Marx’s notion of fetishization (the straightforward equation of value with price). Instead of appearing as disconnected from the processes of production through which they emerge, the image of the “cheap, fatty, and undesirable cut of meat… evokes the labor processes of killing and dismembering that went into them” (p. 27). Flaps additionally, Gewertz and Errington argue, resist fetishization of consumption; because they are a widely stigmatized meat, they do not hide, but draw attention to the persisting inequalities between those who eat and those who eschew the fatty meat. Flaps, already embroiled in local controversies, “encourage people to think about the broader historical relationships that make them” (p. 28).
In this easily readable, but nonetheless ambitious book, Gewertz and Errington apply their longstanding interest in change in Papua New Guinea to the controversies surrounding the sale and purchase of lamb and mutton fat among, what they call, “Flap Food Nations.” They suggest that flaps embody numerous ambiguities about post-colonial relations between the Pacific Islands (specifically Papua New Guinea, Fiji, and Tonga) and Australia and New Zealand. Although they are a tasty and important source of nutrition for many Pacific Islanders, they are also widely seen as “by-products”, “dumped” upon the poor by wealthier nations. Furthermore, given an escalating incidence of obesity in the Pacific Islands, flaps – themselves more than 50% fat – have come to represent the high prevalence of dietary related illnesses: diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, etc. Gewertz and Errington suggest that because of their complicated symbolism, flaps function akin to totems, marking group membership— in this case third world eaters and first world refusers. This totemic quality of flaps additionally references inextricable relations of dependency, indexing those who live in a second-rate modernity in which they reply upon a second-rate source of food.
Cheap Meat follows “the flow of flaps” (p. 8) in order to explore how a “cheap, fatty meat ends up only in certain places and only in certain bodies” (p. 40). The authors begin their exploration of the “global omnivore’s dilemma” (118) – that is, how to chose what to eat – in New Zealand and Australia, countries where flaps are either rejected or used for pet food. Gewertz and Errington are refreshingly transparent about their methodologies and always forthright about the complexities of their anthropological commitments. They carefully detail their visits to (dis)assembly slaughterhouses, where low-value flaps are separated from high value loins and racks (flaps are the only part of the sheep that needs no further processing, and, because they are a “cheap meat,” they are simply sawed apart and stuffed into bags or cartons without regard for aesthetic presentation). Although flaps constitute just 3-5% of a carcass’s value, because margins of profit for meat production are low, flaps must be sold for the producers to make money. Rather than demonize the “middle men” of the meat trade who are responsible for arranging the export of “cheap meat” to poorer Pacific Island countries, Gewertz and Errington describe the traders they interview as “the commercial corollary of anthropologists” (p. 54). To achieve desired sales, these traders – many of whom operate “at the bottom of the market” (p. 70) – are required to cultivate considerable knowledge about and ties within the communities where they work.
By the second half of the book, when this multi-sited study of globalism moves to the Pacific Islands, the authors have succinctly presented their readers with an important history of the recent origins of the production and inter-island trade of flaps. This history illuminates another ambiguity entailed in the sale of flaps: unlike many “traditional,” so-called “ethnic” fatty foods (lardo in Italy, chitlins in the US south, or even the brined brisket consumed in the Papua New Guinea), flaps are a recently introduced commodity without much cultural cache. Gewertz and Errington carefully point out that poorer Pacific Islanders depend upon flaps as a source of affordable calories, that street venders rely upon their sale, and that many of their informants (surveyed in their study by local anthropology students) described flaps as enjoyable, convenient, and filling. Yet their informants overwhelmingly viewed flaps as sub-par to the local delicacy of pig, and even those Pacific Islanders who depend on flaps for sustenance saw them as a troubling representation of the structural inequalities between first world producers and third world consumers. As the authors write: “Papua New Guineans do know – and do remain concerned by the fact – that lamb and mutton flaps are rejected by white people” (p. 108). Although Australian and New Zealand producers defended their trade with statements such as, “One person’s trash was bound to be another’s treasure” (p. 73), Pacific Islanders were unsettled by their consumption of goods they knew others had rejected. In exploring this controversy, Cheap Meat convincingly demonstrates that in the case of flaps, “Conversion of trash to treasure may become, over time, an increasingly compromised alchemy” (p. 95).
In the last two chapters of the book (“Pacific Island Flaps” and “One Supersize Does Not Fit All”) the authors engage most directly with the public health crisis that shadows their study. They use two Pacific Islands as case studies: Fiji, which banned the sale of flaps in 2000, and Tonga, where public health officials estimate that 60% of those aged 15 and older are obese. In Fiji, the government began to regulate against flaps as a means to protect the health of its citizens (despite the challenge this ban posed to the neoliberal free-trade stipulations of the World Trade Organization, it was locally defended as a public-health corollary to other countries’ regulations of food safety). While the authors raise important questions about potential limits of public health, and point out that the ban has done little to curtail rates of obesity and may have even harmed those who are undernourished and protein-deprived, they also laud the Fijian government for showing itself to be “committed to and capable of” taking steps to address the public health concerns of its citizens (p. 119).
Gewertz and Errington explore numerous public health measures aimed at obesity prevention in Fiji and Tonga. For example, they describe a televised public health commercial that follows flaps as they move from congealed fat to a blocked artery to a man’s stroke. They also detail a church scene where a Pentecostal preacher publically weighs his parishioners while encouraging them to treat their bodies as temples of God. Their analysis entails a trenchant critique of the “just do it” (152) narratives of consumer choice and individual responsibility that drive many discussions of obesity prevention. They point out that given widespread (and increasing) market inequalities, not all citizens have the same range of opportunities and so not all consumers are equally capable of making “healthy” choices. In the beginning of Cheap Meat, the authors said that due to the ethical concerns underlying their research they felt obligated to weigh in with policy recommendations. It is at the end of the book that they do so, and they conclude their study by suggesting that while it would be unreasonable to expect first world countries (New Zealand and Australia) to restrict their export of flaps, poorer countries like Tonga or Fiji should not be prevented from taking actions – perhaps in the form of food bans – to protect the public health of their citizens. “Good food choices,” they suggest, “must be made as easy as possible” (p. 164).
Overall, Cheap Meat is a compelling and informative read, which could be assigned to undergraduate courses on culture and food in any discipline. It would also complement introductory anthropology course syllabi, as it cogently engages with the dilemmas confronting modern-day multi-sited ethnographic research. In studying the global flows of a commodity food across numerous nations, and by linking this food to the weight and health of people’s bodies, the authors are, admittedly, tackling a huge project. Any one of their chapters might have been an entire study, and the book as a whole is a formidable analysis of a complex and increasingly significant public health concern. Because of this, I will not provide concluding criticism typical of book reviews, but will instead suggest areas that might be elaborated upon in further research.
My research on the “nutrition transition” in Guatemala focuses on perceptions of dietary health and changing corporeal ideals, and – likely because of this – the sections of Cheap Meat that I found especially compelling were those that explored the local dilemmas that Pacific Islanders have experienced in their reliance on the consumption of “cheap meat.” While the authors argue that fatty meat is stigmatized (even among people who enjoy it), further research might usefully explore whether, and in what circumstances, this stigmatization extends to fat bodies. We learn that the former King of Tonga was the “world’s most enormous monarch” (p. 50) weighing in at up to 462 pounds. We are also told that the corporeal bulk of PNG politicians indexes their power and privilege (even if illegitimate and disproportionate). The authors suggest that fatness among the Mari was amusing and a source of “good natured banter” (113). In all of these descriptions fatness has positive and even desirable connotations. Yet they also tell us that an estimated 15% of girls in Fiji – caught between familial pressures to eat, and societal and governmental pressures for thinness – are reported to have “patterns of disordered eating” (p. 140). It would be interesting to examine the circumstances through which body fat becomes undesirable, and the strategies of weight management employed in response. If Pacific Island elite, who can afford “luxury” low-calorie foods, have begun to diet, how is this affecting post-colonial understandings of what constitutes proper eating, proper body form, and – by extension – inclusion in national bodies?
In this vein, further studies might explore existing and emerging national stratifications that form around fat meat and fat bodies. The authors describe flaps as embodying a “diffuse social anxiety” about the international inequalities between first and third world countries. To what degree might they also embody, or come to embody, anxieties about local inequalities? I also wonder: Although thinness and health are increasingly conflated in public discourse, is weight regulation in fact becoming the individualized moral problem in the Pacific Islands that is it in many western countries? While the authors devote critical attention to public health and commercial discourses that frame consumption of fatty meat as a “lifestyle” matter and encourage individual responsibility, further studies might explore how these understandings of fat are actually taken up in people’s lives and everyday practices. Given the longstanding anthropological emphasis on Melanesian relationality, it would be instructive to know how Pacific Islanders are adopting, resisting, or transforming public health narratives of personal responsibility.
Finally, I would like to learn more about the understandings of dietary and bodily health that exist in the rural communities where many of the now-urban field informants of Cheap Meat originate. Gewertz and Errington briefly discuss notions of care in Fiji, where a local word, Vikawaitaki, implies food exchange and feeding and is understood to emerge in bodily form. Vikawaitaki (care) both figuratively and materially “marks the body with the record of its success” (p. 139). Given that global public health programs often standardize terms like “health,” “care,” “nourishment,” “nutrition,” and “diet,” an exploration of the local nuances of these ideas – as well as the practices through which they gain their meanings – in places where public health campaigns are still marginal, strikes me as a potentially valuable extension to what is already a valuable and impressive study.

November 26, 2008

Migrant Worlds, Material Cultures

Special Issue of Mobilities, Volume 3, Issue 3
Edited by Paul Basu & Simon Coleman (Univ. of Sussex)

Lochaber_No_More.jpg

Migrating materialities. Lochaber No More by John Watson Nicol (1883), discussed by Paul Basu & Simon Coleman in their introduction to the special issue.

While much scholarly work exists on both migration and material culture, there is remarkably little literature explicitly concerned with how these areas of study converge. In this special issue of the journal Mobilities we suggest a number of points of departure for the exploration of the relationships between ‘migrant worlds’ and ‘material cultures’ and bring together a series of articles that takes this exploration in a number of intentionally disparate directions.

In the collection, we refer to ‘migrant worlds’ rather than ‘migration’ per se, in that we are not only concerned with the materiality of migration itself, but also with the material effects of having moved, perhaps many years earlier, to a new place, and with the inter-relatedness of the movements of people and things. In addition, we want to convey the sense that a ‘world’ – an often fragmented and fragile set of material and non-material assumptions and resources – can itself be made mobile, seemingly translated from one geographical location to another, even as it is transformed in the process. Thus the migrant worlds explored in this collection range from a ‘temporary’ refugee camp in Uganda to living rooms in England and the Caribbean, from the emotive, as well as locomotive, materialities of rail travel in Scandinavia to the social as well as physical migrations of cloth in South Asia.

The issue can be accessed at:
http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/title~content=g903561919~db=all

Titles of articles and abstracts follow.

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November 14, 2008

Dominant Wave Theory, 2006

Stephen Brigdale, Southampton University


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This photography book published by Booth-Clibborn Editions and H N Abrams features over 150 photographs by the artist Andy Hughes made on different beach locations from California to Western Cornwall. The book explores and examines the relationship of beach waste as both an object of visual enquiry and as a reference to the global environmental crisis. "Dominant wave theory", we are told, " is loosely based on a scientific term used in the prediction and observation of wave models". The book sets out to parallel this idea visually through the observation of the beach as a local site for the interplay of nature and consumer culture.

Through extraordinarily focused colour photographs of found waste objects, the reader is offered tangible stilled moments of reflection on the nature of these objects and left to ponder their place in the world now that their original purpose has been washed (eroded) away. This extensive archive of images forms the core of the project with the design and development of the book by David Carson working to heighten the visual scope and pace of the work. This is apparent in the scale, ordering and pairing of the images, creating thoughtful and revealing relationships throughout the book.

The photographs are complemented by a collection of essays by five eminent writers, who are here linked through the common thread of the project but coming from a wide range of perspectives. They discuss ideas connected with the beach from eco-activism through to cultural theory and marine biology; their contribution extends and puts into context ideas initiated within the photographs.

The essays open with a discussion by Christopher Short, of the visual context of Hughes's work as a contemporary art practice. The wider implications of these photographs, in terms of art history through formalism and the development of modernism in St Ives (Hughes is based in West Cornwall), are speculated upon together with tourism in this locale to draw anthropological perspectives.

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November 4, 2008

OBJECTS, PERFUMES, LANGUAGE

Daniel Miller, University College London

I happened to be talking to a potential publisher, Profile Books, and at the end of the discussion they were kind enough to leave me a copy of the book Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. When I opened this up I found that the book actually consists of an alphabetically ordered review of some 1,500 fragrances. I have never actually worn a perfume, and I don’t believe I have ever purchased a perfume for anyone else, except maybe cheap Christmas presents for informants during fieldwork. Yet one week later I find that I am reading this book cover to cover. There are two reasons for this. Firstly I am intrigued with this work as an exposition of the relationship between the material, the immaterial and language. Secondly because its utterly brilliant.

My fascination with the issue of immateriality and language arose a very long time ago when I read a volume called Wine and Conversation by the linguist Adrienne Lehrer in 1983. I am writing from distant memory but as I recall it documented a series of blind testing of people talking about wines. This included lay wine quaffers and professional wine experts from California. The point was that wine has developed an extraordinarily rich vocabulary of description, but was that actually effective in conveying something about the wines themselves? To cut to the chase, the book seemed to suggest that most people, including experts, could not actually identify wines based merely on such verbal descriptions. It implied that this language existed for social and symbolic purposes that falsely presumed the communication of substance and managed to survive happily even when this was largely illusory.

Now that could be seen as essentially a negative take on things like wine buffs, pretentiousness etc. But you could turn this around and see it instead as an interesting argument for the creativity of descriptive language itself even in the absence of actual denoted objects. Wine description developing its own artistic agility precisely because of the difficulty of its project. The present volume on perfume makes this much more plausible. Because I think it would generally be agreed that if taste is difficult to convey through language alone then smell is a great deal harder. It seems about the most intractable of the senses. Now I have no idea whether this book succeeds or not in creating the kind of objectivity that is ascribed to wine. Certainly it starts with an introduction that explains the chemistry and dynamics of perfume construction much as one might for wines, and I certainly imagine that the authors believe that language can actually convey substance, just as those wine experts were convinced that that is what they were engaged in doing when talking about wine.

But for me this ceases to matter when one comes up against the other quality of this book and the one that drives me to read it in full. What I mean by claiming that it is brilliant, is that the quality of the writing itself transcends any such link to either the material or immaterial. It’s not just the richness of metaphorical extension required in trying to convey smell. The point of the book is unflinching adjudication and this is where it excels. The put downs are often incredibly funny and so devastating and terse as to be an absolute delight. But then one is equally carried away by the soaring praise of what they consider the emperors of scent, and the sense of the ecstatic that they ascribe to the experience of perfumes such as Chanel No5 or Beyond Paradise.

It is the scale, the distance they create between their peaks and troughs that make reading about 1,500 scents such a joy. We are driven right down to `as near nonexistent it as it is possible to be while still remaining technically a fragrance’ or `the worlds most expensive lemon sorbet flavour’ or `hideously screechy’ or `probably first rejected for use in industrial drain cleaner.’ We are carried all the way up to `it is an ideally proportioned wonder, all of a piece, smooth to the touch and solid as marble, with no sharp edges or extraneous fur trimming, a monument of perfect structure and texture’ or `Laurent married grapefruit instead with an intensely pink floral accord and somehow gave it durability and that elusive quality of radiance; the ability to project an accurate image of itself at a distance’ or `a husky voiced come on’ or `one of the great emancipated fragrances.’

I suspect for some people the writing is too extreme, even vulgar. But then I like coral reef and Nirvana. I am not sure I could ever become completely entranced by smell, but I now find that I can certainly be captured by these florid tendrils of descriptive phrasing wafting by my nose.

June 25, 2008

The Comfort of Things (Polity)

Daniel Miller, University College London

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I am not sure about the ethics of using this blog to announce ones own books, but I hope it’s excusable to at least use the opportunity to explain what I hope is different about this particular book from others written under the auspices of material culture studies The most obvious difference when you open this book is that for something that is clearly intended as an academic book there are no references, no citations and no index. Instead there are thirty `portraits’ of individuals and households almost all from a single street in South London. There is a prologue which gives some indication of the academic intention and by far the most evident academic element is the final chapter or appendix which is an explicit discussion of the implications of this work for academic issues. In brief, it suggests that there is a so far unexplored potential legacy of anthropological perspectives on the world. This emerges if we dissolve away our usual dualism between the individual and some larger category of society or culture. Instead the book argues that it is possible to take the kinds of approach that anthropologists have traditionally employed in the study of society and culture and apply it directly to the household or individual. To recognise that these tiny elements of society may have created a cosmology, order and rhythm of life, a pattern of cultural form, sense of morality and many of the other creations normally seen as adhering to larger social wholes.

This might be argued of individuals and households of any time or age, but tthre is a further argument that it is particularly appropriate for the study of the people of contemporary London. So many of these households fail to fit the kinds of categories that are used to subsume individuals in social science. They may be in some respects working class, or women, or Brazilian, or migrant, or gay or lawyers, but none of these categories really capture what is richest about our encounters with them. The advantage of using a random street as one’s unit of enquiry is that you are forced to deal with whoever opens the door, and not choose them as tokens of social science notions of identity. So there is a fit between the particular methodology employed in this work and the theoretical arguments it makes about how people construct their worlds.

But this doesn’t itself explain the lack of the usual accoutrements of academia nor its link to material culture. Working on this book was a very different experience from any previous volume I have worked on. On this occasion my aim was to concentrate on the nature of writing itself. To try and create a style that emulated more literary models rather than academic genres of writing. Something which after years of writing in academic modes, I find quite hard to do. The reasoning was that in the same way that historians have managed to make their work far more popular in the last couple of decades with a more general audience, it ought to be possible to do the same for anthropology. True we don’t have the advantage of narrative, but on the other hand we can demonstrate an empathetic encounter with people in many different ways that are particular to our discipline. So this is an attempt to create a popular work in material culture, as. In a rather different way, I had previously tried to do this along with Mukulika Banerjee in the earlier book The Sari. Though on that occasion through the use of pictures and design, without hopefully losing the academic insight that, rather than academic style, ought to be what we bring to the world as academics. What is it that I am hoping to popularize? It is basically what I have always seen as one of the larger transcendent points of material culture studies. The way that persons and things are mutually constituted, and how the study of relationships cuts across the animate and inanimate. Instead of making this point theoretically, the aim is to convey it in such a manner that it becomes an obvious implication of this reflection upon our private lives. In a subsequent edited collection together with my post-graduate students we are hoping to take the theoretical implication of this work and subject it to critique. But The Comfort of Things itself is an attempt to bring material culture studies to a different, wider audience. to Whether I have succeeded, and whether in fact this reaches that wider audience, I shall see. But then failures are often more instructive than successes, at least to authors.

April 14, 2008

Understanding Material Culture, Ian Woodward, 2007, Sage

Review by Daniel Miller, Anthropology UCL

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There have been a number of attempts to write general textbooks on material culture. Clearly I form one part of a particular grouping within UCL anthropology that has itself produced a good deal of material of this kind. So for me it is interesting and refreshing to also find works that come from different positions and perspectives. Having said that, there have been others I have not been very impressed by. But I would recommend this new textbook by Ian Woodward. It is a book which keeps a balance between what might be expected of a textbook, trying to conscientious and fair to all positions and act simply to synthesise, and also acts as a book with its own agenda that is seeking to promote a particular approach of the authors choosing.

It is clearly composed, with guidelines setting out what it intends and what it has achieved for each chapter. It starts with a fairly gentle introduction to the cultural nature of objects, and a reasonable history of the development of this inter-disciplinary concern. Chapter three provides a concise and conventional coverage of Marxist arguments, and means that material culture is initially largely identified with commodities. As such other branches of material culture studies, such as museums and anthropology, may feel relatively neglected. Although, at least methodologically, they might find chapter four’s coverage of structuralism quite useful for teaching. While chapter five has a strong culturalist agenda focusing on the anthropological contribution, with perhaps more on Durkheim that I might have expected. This is not balanced by any anti-Durkheimian perspective such as Latour, who is completely absent.

The next section is called objects in action. Chapter six is mainly concerned with issues of distinction and social status, while chapter seven is directed at the role of objects in respect to identity. Since this is intended as a textbook, it is actually no bad thing that the coverage to this point remains conservative and balanced. There is perhaps a bit more social psychology in chapter seven than might have bound found in some social science. To some degree a more social orientation in chapter six is balanced with this more individual orientation in chapter seven.

Chapter eight is probably the most original contribution, setting out a route from more conventional debates to what seems to be the author’s own perspective. This centres on issues of narrative and performance and follows fairly smoothly from the social psychology of the previous chapter. These are seen as the frames within which objects are recognised and make sense for people. This is also used as an excuse to bring in the home as a case study. It takes us back to methodological and epistemological issues of how we constitute our findings, with as much an emphasis upon language as upon objects. As it happens I don’t much agree with the arguments, or find them that persuasive, but that’s just one person’s opinion. I would still welcome them as an original and different approach. It seems quite fair that the author, having done a patient treatment of everyone else, should be allowed some advocacy for the kinds of approaches in the final two chapters which I assume are those he most favours. Overall then I think this book deserves its niche, both as a textbook covering long standing debates and discussions, but also as an entry point to a particular perspective. It comes about as close as anything I have seen to a genuine standard textbook, that tries to transcend particular disciplines.

October 24, 2007

They called me Mayer July

I'ld like to draw your attention to a project which has just come to fruition by Barbara Kirschenblatt Gimblett: the publication of the book, They called me Mayer July, and opening of the exhibition of the same name.

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"The only Jew in the volunteer fire brigade."

Barbara's father, Mayer Kirschenblatt taught himself to paint, aged 73, and has created an evocative visual record of his life in Poland before World War Two and his emigration to Canada. Drawing on interviews conducted over decades and in Mayer's own words, the book and exhibition are a visual ethnography of Polish Jewish life, and highlights the redemptive power of art as a medium to not only evoke memory and narrate life histories, but to reconnect to the past and to broader cultural histories.

The project has a website:
http://samanthamyers.typepad.com/theycalledmemayerjuly/

The exhibition will travel from California, to Poland, to Amsterdam and New York City.

BKG discusses the project:
http://samanthamyers.typepad.com/theycalledmemayerjuly/daughters_afterword.html

Mayer Kirschenblatt has also recorded an audio narrative which can be accessed through the website, and for US visitors, by calling a cellphone number
http://samanthamyers.typepad.com/theycalledmemayerjuly/2007/09/listen-to-mayer.html

October 12, 2007

Reviewing Exhibiting Māori

Jeffrey Sissons, Anthropology Programme, Victoria Univ. of Wellington

Book review of: 'Exhibiting Māori: A History of Colonial Cultures of Display', by Conal McCarthy (paperback 2007) Oxford/Wellington: Berg & Te Papa Press.

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Conal McCarthy introduces this book by inviting the reader to consider four photographs, taken at different times, of a waharoa or carved gateway. The first, a postcard, shows the waharoa, flanked by large carved figures with protruding tongues, at the entrance to a model Maori village built for the 1906-7 New Zealand International Exhibition held in Christchurch. A second image depicts the gateway as an ethnographic specimen in the Dominion Museum of the 1930s. A third shows the same object as a ‘treasure’ or taonga – an imposing, solitary sculpture at the entrance to The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. One narrative in this book tells the story of the shifting meaning of this and other aspects of Maori material culture as they are reconceptualised through display as curio, specimen, artifact, art and taonga. This is a genealogy of taonga and contemporary understandings of Maori art and material culture expressive of changing relations between Maori and the colonial state. But there is also a second, more surprising and more original narrative here: It is introduced by yet another photograph of the waharoa. In this image the carvers, Neke Kapua and his sons, are shown standing beside and in front of their almost completed work. This narrative plots changing forms of Maori involvement in the exhibition and production for exhibition of Maori material culture from the mid-nineteenth century to the present.

McCarthy reveals complex and ambiguous forms of Maori engagement with 19th century international exhibitions and local museums. When leaders from Whanganui sent items to a Philadelphia exhibition in the 1880s, for example, they expected the Americans to reciprocate in kind. When Ngati Awa in the Bay of Plenty agreed to send their new meeting house, Mataatua, to the Sydney International exhibition held in 1879 they expected to accompany it. Maori ‘curio-dealers’ sold objects to exhibitors and to the Government in the late 19th century and early 20th centuries. Henry Uru, for example, ran an emporium selling, among a wide range of items, feather cloaks, woven tea-cozies and carved pipes. By the turn of the century, other Maori were donating to museums and leaders were deeply concerned over the potential loss of their material heritage to tourists and overseas buyers. McCarthy argues that the passing of the Maori Antiquity Act (intended to prevent Maori art leaving the country) in 1901 coincided with an increased Maori interest in cultural preservation. James Carroll and other Maori leaders of the time strongly supported the concept of a National Maori Museum.

By the 1930s, Apirana Ngata’s carving school had opened in Rotorua and Thomas Heberly had been appointed as the first full-time Maori staff-member at the Dominion Museum. For Ngata and Heberly Maori material culture was a living art form that had meaning in relation to the present and future of Maori society. Museum objects were to become sources of cultural inspiration rather than ethnological specimens. Thus Hau-ki-Turanga – the meeting house being restored by the Dominion Museum – would become a model for many others built throughout New Zealand during the Maori renaissance of the 1930s. McCarthy’s account of this period is important because it deepens and complicates earlier analyses of the ‘traditionalisation’ of Maori meeting houses. More information on the wider context of Ngata’s engagement with the Dominion museum would have strengthened the argument, however. McCarthy notes that Ngata was ‘too embarrassed’ to attend the opening of the new Dominion Museum in 1936 because the restoration of the meeting house was not completed. But this was just one in a string of ‘embarrassments’ since a 1934 Commission of enquiry into his development programmes had forced him to resign in 1935 as Minister of Maori affairs.

McCarthy’s discussion of Maori critiques of the 1940 Centennial Exhibition held in Wellington and of Ngata’s involvement in its successful staging furthers our understanding of Ngata’s post-assimilationist views and reveals more widespread Maori resistance to assimilation during this period. The large crowds that visited the exhibition included many Maori who enjoyed the entertainment provided by the recently formed Ngati Poneke kapa haka group. Carvers displayed their skills, deliberately emphasising the contemporary nature of their work. When a Pakeha visitor complained to one of the carvers, ‘your ancestors didn’t do that with a steel adze’, the carver is said to have replied, ‘no, and you didn’t come here in a stage coach’ (p.92).

Ngata’s most vigorous and inspiring successor was probably Kara Puketapu, Head of Maori Affairs in the 1970s and early 80s. He initiated and led major reforms in the way his department related to Maori centered on the Tu Tangata programmes aimed at increasing Maori self-determination. McCarthy reveals that in 1981 his inter-departmental committee played a significant role in ensuring wide Maori involvement in the planning and staging of Te Maori. This international exhibition redefined Maori artifacts as taonga, a move that was to have far-reaching consequences for the display and public understanding of Maori material culture.

McCarthy’s final chapter, ‘Mana Taonga’, is a careful and insightful examination of changes introduced by Maori at Te Papa aimed at attracting more Maori visitors and creating links with iwi. He describes well the confusion over the definition of taonga and the enormous difficulties associated with iwi-liaison that at times threatened to overwhelm staff.

This story of Maori agency is closely interwoven with a second narrative that traces the shifts in meaning of Maori display objects as they move from curio to taonga. The role of museum directors, especially those at the dominion museum, is highlighted here. McCarthy is sensitive to the difficulties of determining the meanings of objects and displays for visitors – Maori and Pakeha – in the absence of good visitor surveys. It is clear from his account, however, that Maori material culture became ‘art’ in very different ways at different times. The Maori ‘art’ of Augustus Hamilton at the turn of the century was not that of the ethnologist Terence Barrow in the 1950s or that of the curators of Te Maori. This shifting notion of Maori ‘art’ disrupts the linear progression of curio to taonga.

This book began life as a Ph.D. thesis but, with the exception of some theoretical formalities near the beginning, it is written in a direct and engaging style. The 76 well-chosen photographs enhance the text considerably. McCarthy notes in his conclusion that his book is intended to reopen debate about postcoloniality and settler societies. It probably won’t achieve such a grand aim by itself. But what it will do, or should do, is encourage a reassessment of colonial relations in New Zealand – a more modest, but none-the-less very considerable achievement.

September 24, 2007

“Consumer Culture” by Roberta Sassatelli

Daniel Miller, Anthropology, UCL

cultbooksmall.jpgIn teaching courses about consumption, the nearest thing I have employed to textbooks are materials that were written over a decade ago. I used Acknowledging Consumption, my own edited survey of disciplinary perspectives and Don Slater's Consumer Culture and Modernity a summary of more sociological debates. None of the many books that have emerged since then seemed to me very satisfactory as replacement textbook materials. Indeed I think many of these give the very term textbook a bad name. You feel they are written under pressure from publishers, an excuse for a relatively superficial and simplifying encounter with the material. Something done on the side in between the authors real research. Or alternatively they are used to make some particular point, promoting the authors own research under the guise of a textbook. A thesis with a general chapter stuck at the beginning and the end.

This I think has been radically changed by the publication in 2007 of Roberta Sassatelli’s Consumer Culture with Sage. This is a model of what a textbook ought to be. Over the past decade the original debates about consumption have been overlaid by a vast amount of detailed research, and it seems unimaginable that a single text could do justice to all of these. To do so would involve as much a commitment to depth as to breadth. I was quite astonished at how well Sassatelli succeeds in balancing the two. It covers a huge amount of ground in its three main sections which are roughly historical, theories of consumer agency and finally the politics of consumption. Each chapter is divided into various themes and in each of these themes she manages to be fair to several different perspectives in turn. Furthermore the bibliography is astonishingly up to date, making full use of studies that were carried out in the last couple of years as well as all the classic works. So the bibliography is excellent. There are at least some references for a vast array of different consumption issues. How we came to be thought of as consumers, each genre of consumption from shopping to gyms, all the various institutional forms that bear on the consumer society. Yet for all this breadth, this sense of something truly comprehensive, there is far more depth than one could possibly expect given the brief compass in which each approach is considered. Instead of simplifying she manages to bring out the key theoretical and often key problematic elements of each approach and author and some of the debates particularly on classic sociological figures would be entirely suited to original research papers in journals.

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August 28, 2007

Emotional Design: A Review

Review of: " Emotional Design: why we love (or hate) everyday things " by, Donald A. Norman (paperback 2005); New York, Basic Books.

Ian J. Ewart, Institute of Social and Cultural Anthropology, University of Oxford

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I had to like this book, it was a matter of principle. Being an engineer turned archaeo/anthropologist, I am constantly frustrated by the lack of consideration in material culture studies of the processes which go into creating objects. Consumption has been in recent years dragged from the anthropological skip, cleaned up, and put on show at the front of the house. Where Exchange used to be the be-all and end-all of analytical tools, now Consumption has been very successfully added to the mix. We can now debate issues of consumption as anthropologically charged, relevant and intellectually stimulating.

But what’s happened to Production recently? Traditionally filed under ‘M for Marxism’, there is more to making things than meets the eye, at least that eye which is cast over the literature on material culture. We have to some extent broken away from the ‘Art paradigm’ (hurrah!) and seen a fruitful move into, for example, the mundane, the sacred and the downright tacky. Initially debated along the lines of whether these things should be collected and displayed, or what rights they have to be elevated to the academic centrefield, alongside the more deserving and implicitly more scholarly ‘Works of Art’, a more enlightened outlook now prevails. However, I think now is the time to throw some of this enlightenment into new and shaded areas. Let’s begin to re-think issues of Production: for starters, how about the process of conceptualisation-design-manufacture? Or re-aligning ‘Technology’ as an anthropological concept, representing something other than hi-tech, or development assistance? What about Materiality as material choices of socially charged appropriateness? Never mind Picasso ‘borrowing’ African art, what about borrowed Technology? (cold weather clothing and indigenous plant pharmaceutics immediately spring to mind). This is surely a fertile field yet to be harvested.

Coming back to ‘Emotional Design’ (if I was ever there), this book is written by Don Norman, a prolific author whose background is in cognitive science and design. Some of the points he makes are familiar to anyone who has studied material culture, although he is explicitly Western and modern in his outlook. This does jar slightly on occasion, such as his list of genetically programmed affects (29-30), which are within us all as a result of evolutionary forces. One negative affect (sic) for example, is a fear of jungles and forests. I need to bear that in mind next year when visiting the Kelabit in the rainforests of Borneo. Similarly in discussing why attractive things work better, he sidesteps debates about universal aesthetics and assures us that the Jaguar E type is undeniably attractive. That may be true, but the basis of his argument I feel is somewhat weakened by not engaging with some of these debates. Having said that, Norman is a cognitive scientist interested in the design and use of modern products, so it is perhaps understandable that he should concentrate on those societies which are the prime movers in his field. As a branch of anthropology, material culture studies would need to be a little more circumspect in its assertions, and there are some here (such as those mentioned above) which need to be treated with caution.

What I want to do though, is to use this book as an example of a way in which we can draw on the work of a different discipline to illuminate our own subject of study. Norman uses this book to outline his theory explaining why we love or hate everyday things, a general topic of central interest to us all. In the process of design (which I suggested above was one facet of Neo-Productionism), Norman considers three ‘Levels of Design’: visceral, behavioural and reflective. By considering each of these in turn, he provides a cognitive model for the nature of objects. The ‘visceral’ level is the basis for his discussion on attractiveness, dealing with appearance and the emotional response thereof. For Norman, this is a natural state, something intrinsic in all human beings, coming from our evolutionary relationship with the environment: bright colours, sweet tastes, organic shapes that sort of thing. Although the cross-cultural universalities are perhaps overstated, the general point is a good one; positive emotional response comes from aesthetically pleasing design. Secondly, the ‘behavioural’ level deals with the functioning of an object. Performance and usability matter. This raises interesting issues of the design process, for example the use to which a product is put, versus the use for which the product is designed. We are familiar with the idea of an object being appropriated in culturally specific ways, but how was the original concept used or abused in generating that variety, and what is the response from, and influence on, future designs? For example, products can be made to have built-in difficulty, whether a piano or a blowpipe, to create a cult of secrecy and awe, but how is this justified socially and in terms of engineering? Consider also jeans designed to fade in a particular way, such that they retain a trace of use (a wallet mark on the front pocket for example), hence enhancing their emotional attachment.

Norman’s third category is ‘reflective’ design. He discusses how we respond to objects (or in many of his case studies, brands) in a culturally controlled way. Reflective design is aimed at producing a self image which is projected to those around us in a way that distinguishes our personality, values and aspirations. These signals are of course not only projected, but also received, and it is the reception that determines the message. So reflective design is a complex interaction of personal meanings and communal messages; a typical enough area for current material culture studies, but one which Norman discusses from a slightly different perspective, as part of the design (and I would argue production) process.

Norman concludes by saying ‘we are all designers’ in that we use objects in innovative ways particular to ourselves, which may not (or perhaps may) have been intended by the design process. He approaches what is quite mainstream material culture studies without intending to do so. As a cognitive scientist and a designer, his interest, and indeed my own, is in the way that objects come into being in a physical way, prior to but at the same time part of, their use, re-use and disposal. Although this book is in many ways flawed anthropologically, it does suggest an avenue for investigation, a new direction for material culture studies, and one which I wholeheartedly recommend. Now, where did I put my Lemonnier…

August 8, 2007

Biographical Subjects

Patrick Laviolette, School of Visual & Material Culture, Massey University

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Given the recent passing of Professor Dame Mary Douglas, I thought that some people might like read a review of Fardon’s intellectual biography of her. Even though the book is now somewhat dated, and I hear that he is planning more work on the impacts of her research, this volume is still a sophisticated tour de force on an important span of her career until about 10 years ago. As a West Africanist and one of her former students, Fardon is well qualified to produce what is a rich piece of scholarly work which, as a straightforward biography, would definitely be lacking in personal detail. Nonetheless, like Stanley Tambiah’s (2002) and Michael Young’s (2004) biographies of Edmund Leach and Bronisław Malinowski, Fardon’s profound contextual engagement with Douglas’s research is indicative of the erudite level that the reflexive history of anthropology can reach.

In this sense, like these other two biographers have done, Fardon situates himself biographically in the preface of the book, offering important insight into the ways in which ‘kinship’ networks can also exist as coherent disciplinary systems. Indeed, he even goes a step further by inferring that on occasion social anthropology can be rather incestuous intellectually - Douglas (1980) writes a biography of Evans-Pritchard; so does Burton (1992); Fardon reviews Burton’s book (1993) and writes his own about Douglas.

As a justification for providing an intellectual biography, Fardon acknowledges the idea of undermining the age-old maxim about describing the person as a means of understanding their work. Instead he follows the Viennese musician Hans Keller who reversed this truism to suggest that an in-depth knowledge of the work explains the person. This holds much truth. We come out from reading this powerful analysis of Douglas’s research as if we know her personally. And since we learn about the extent to which she has the habitus of a perpetual critic and perfectionist, it is easy to assume that she herself could never be one hundred percent happy with this text, although her abilities to find grounds to fault it were far superior to mine.

Fardon’s book is divided into four parts. Part 1 outlines Douglas’s Catholic boarding school upbringing, her education at Oxford and her initial African fieldwork. Part 2 analyses and deconstructs her two most internationally renowned publications. Part 3 looks at her post 70s years in America, away from mainstream British anthropology, when she ventured into new terrain that dealt with theories of consumption, risk and religion. Part 4 analyzes her conceptual ponderings on social institutions, modernism and Durkheimian classificatory systems. In examining her early years the author demonstrates that Douglas’s Catholic exposure at The Sacred Heart Convent added a dimension of non-spatial universality to her thinking. It would equally leave lasting impressions on her interests in symbolism, ritual, institutional hierarchy and security as well as what he suggests was one of her biggest achievements – helping anthropologists take seriously the study of Western societies. Analogously perhaps, his analysis of her regimented educational upbringing has textual resonances with the anthropological documentary filmmaker David MacDougall’s ethnographic series about the Indian public school system through the five films of The Doon School Chronicles (1997/2000). Both are accounts about class and normativisation, hence reinforcing the social facets so prominent in the imperial dimensions of British anthropology.

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Professor Dame Mary Douglas at a party held at UCL in honour of her DBE, from UCL Events webpage

In examining the training of anthropologists at Oxford, Fardon makes a similar point to Roy Richard Grinker (2000) in his biography of Colin Turnbull by putting forth the argument that Evans-Pritchard and Franz Steiner’s influence on Douglas was such that she acquired most of the characteristics that were archetypical of post World War II British social anthropology. That is, an African field site and a curiosity about social structures particularly in terms of the formation of groups associated with kinship lineages (pp.40-41). Given this institutional structuring mechanism of social anthropology at Oxford, the question thus arises as to why both Grinker and Fardon each omit citing or mentioning the protagonist of the other’s biography in their own.

In a rather short twenty odd pages which are disproportionately represented by a plate of five fieldwork photographs, Fardon then looks at Douglas’s research amongst the Lele. Or rather, he mostly looks at her study of the Lele, the published outcomes of that work, elaborating very little on experiential encounters or methodological strategies for how she went about doing fieldwork. Owing to what is possibly a lack of letters and similar written archive materials for this period of her life, it is nonetheless a shame in terms of a reflexive history towards the process of fieldwork that this episode of initiatory ethnographic practice is so briefly examined. This must be for me the only real shortcoming.

The biggest single emphasis of the volume, however, is on the ten years that allowed Douglas to synthesise the ideas that would become her consistent theoretical stances and would turn her into an international figure. In deconstructing her two most well known books, Fardon here uses the clever reflexive technique of offering a ‘structuralist’ analysis of Douglas’s own structuralist work and prose style (p.84). That is, he gives us a pattern for the way she formulates her arguments in writing which is recurring and forms rhetorical foundation. He demonstrates that this is present from the linking of paragraph passages, all the way through to the way the overall chapter outlines of her books work as a sequence of thesis, antithesis and dismissal reinforcing initial thesis.

Fardon then goes on to explore Douglas’s attempts to establish theoretical pillars for supporting the understanding of universal forms of human behaviour as gleaned from comparative methods in social anthropology. “The juxtaposition of contemporary and exotic materials, often but not always African, has become a hallmark of her work on Western society [...] Douglas’s juxtapositions derive from her desire to create a genuinely catholic, in the sense of universal, comparative social anthropology” (p.110). This ethos would fuel an incredibly diverse and prolific career based on her oft reworked but generally consistent conceptual grid-group model. Fardon unpacks its evolution as Douglas applied it to economics and consumption, risk analysis, religion and ritual as well as institutional thought. By looking at these periods of research in her life, he effectively demonstrates the multi-dimensionality of grid-group theory whilst nonetheless providing an overview of the ways in which is has been contested and opposed.

Such an analysis of the power dynamics at the core and near the peripheries of academia allows Fardon to address a most germane issue in terms of a disciplinary reflexive history - situating Douglas within the wider rubric of British social anthropology’s modernist movement. He concludes that as an inspirational systems builder she was destined to travel a liminal path towards recognition. Indeed, the book shows that in many instances the rationale for her writings has been to bring various theories and methods of social anthropology to their logical extremes, revealing ultimate strengths and weaknesses. This was Douglas’s vision beyond the applicability of specific models or frameworks and would undoubtedly be for many the mark of a truly significant social theorist.

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August 1, 2007

Muslim Fashions: A Review of Fashion Theory Special Issue

Mukulika Banerjee, Reader in Anthropology, University College London

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This issue of the always lush and exciting journal Fashion Theory is specially welcome. At a time when there is an unprecedented interest in Islam and Muslims this volume provides a comprehensive and scholarly investigation of the most ubiquitous evidence of Islam: Muslim dress. Taking on board the common stereotypes of Islam the editors Moors and Tarlo have put together contributions which explore Muslim women’s dress in diverse settings across the Muslim world, from Mali to Indonesia and Turkey to San’a. Each essay is thought provoking and full of surprises. The choice of women’s dress as a topic is entirely apposite. Clothing matters. And it matters to and for women in richer ways, both personally and sociologically, than it does for men.

The editors point out at the outset that contrary to popular (non-Islamic) perceptions, ‘Islamic fashion’ among women is far from homogenous and the relationship between religion and clothing is variously contested across different societies. The sheer range of vocabulary to describe the veil, the mind boggling complexity of different styles of veiling (most readers won’t notice the differences in the excellent visuals without the help of the text), the completely different ways in which women who choose to veil are treated in different countries, how the same garment is viewed in totally opposed ways in different contexts, are some of the indications of this diversity. The struggles between the homogenising tendencies of governments, clerics and the influence of global fashion trends on the one hand and the diversifying tendencies among the wearers themselves is a common theme across the volume. The variations across settings are as much to do with the nature of the political regimes, the presence of Muslims as dominant majorities or significant minorities within nations as with economic forces of marketing, advertising, and the cost of materials. Through sartorial biographies of women in London, marketing strategies of designers in Iran, the influence of Arab styles and materials in south India and a host of such rich case studies, the range of tastes, markers of distinction, ideas of modernity in today’s Islamic world are all brought to life. As several contributors point out, fashion in women’s clothing can be both expressive and emancipatory and exploring the variations, syncreticism and mutability of styles across different societies and Islams, makes this point convincingly. The norm to which Islamic women aspire can be as intensely personal and created to suit their own ideas of modesty, piety and aesthetics as set by those who aim to control women’s dress.

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These fine-grained studies also reveal the unexpected, phenomenological aspects of fashion with great sensitivity. Thus we learn that the choice of one type of garment over another is determined as much by trends and budget as it is by the physical quality of the cloth itself. Thus, stretchy woollen face coverings are favoured over more fixed ones for women who need to change their appearance quickly for different audiences, shinier but cheaper fabrics are favoured over more expensive but subtle ones to make an impact, judgements are made about layering depending on the sheerness of the fabric and so on. Finally, the hybrid tailored-draped nature of many of the Islamic garments adopted by women shows how far from being in any sense fixed, clothing which covers, is alive, constantly shifting, slipping, being restored and wrapped to convey various messages. This is an excellent volume that does much to further the writing on Islam and fashion in general and will quickly establish itself a staple for reading lists across disciplines.

Special Double Issue of Fashion Theory: the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture Berg Publishers Volume 11 Issue 2/3 June/September 2007 Edited by Annelies Moors and Emma Tarlo

July 25, 2007

The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum's "Do You Remember, When"

Paul Williams, NYU

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United States Holocaust Museum: Online Exhibit, Do You Remember When?

Among the various modes of museum display, “online exhibits,” are often disappointing. They are overwhelmingly purely visual, comprising two-dimensional representations of select artworks or artifacts. These are chosen without explanation by the museum and organized in a this-then-that sequence that has little to do with the personal idiosyncrasies of museum visitation – or the cross-institutional, hyper-textual possibilities afforded by the web. While some science and a few art museums offer important exceptions, history museums are particularly guilty of this tendency.

It is heartening, therefore, to find a truly enlightening online history exhibit. The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum’s ‘Do You Remember, When’ exhibition went online in 2001. It is based entirely on a book given by one young man, Manfred Lewin, killed at Auschwitz, to his gay friend, Gad Beck, a half Jew who survived in the small Jewish underground of World War II Berlin. While the book is ostensibly comprised of notes about Friedrich Von Schiller’s 18th century play Don Carlos, it is impossible to read without also detecting the subtext of a doomed friendship in 1940s Berlin.

This dual meaning makes the text especially well-suited to the USHMM’s conceptual criss-crossing between two historical layers. The 17 easily-navigated (and translated) pages of the illustrated handmade book are filled with rollover links to further explanatory material, including audio songs, archival photographs, and recorded sections of interviews with Gad Beck (who entrusted the book to the museum). The well-chosen design and content makes the reading experience near seamless, and allows one to choose their level of immersion in historical detail. (A technical review of the site can be found at http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/10686.html).

The exhibit verges on that most quality most elusive in online exhibits – being tactile. A diary, or any book, can work better online than in a museum (where pages usually can’t be turned, and interpretive commentary in text-label or audio form is added only clumsily). In ‘Do You Remember, When,’ the viewer gains a real sense of both the intimacy of the primary material (the amateurish drawings, the occasionally disjointed narrative) and the research that went into producing the secondary interpretation. This research stimulated memories (particularly from Gad Beck) but also revealed some gaps that couldn’t be filled in. The result is a rare online document that is not only moving and content-rich, but also provides readers with a vivid insight into both the alignments and disparities cleaving personal memory and archival artifact.

May 18, 2007

Grande-Bretagne: Anthropology at Home

Fiona Parrott, Department of Anthropology, UCL

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The Tea Caddy, Paris

Ever wondered how Englishness is portrayed in Paris? Visit The Tea Caddy on 14 rue Saint Julien-Le-Pauvre for Un buffet anglais where tiny scones and dainty cucumber sandwiches are served in a dark wood panelled room, surrounded by china and old maps. The occasion was in honour of the publication of a special issue on Grande-Bretagne: Anthropology at Home. This is the most recent special issue of Ethnologie Française (April 2007) to be part of a series of issues devoted to different countries written by scholars in those places, in short anthropologists doing anthropology at home. In this case the editors were Sophie Chevalier (Universite de Franche-Comte/Laios-MSH), Sharon MacDonald and Jeanette Edwards (University of Manchester). Curiously there was no tea, but there was plenty of French wine which was a fitting celebration for a beautifully presented journal.

Coming out of the tradition of European Ethnology, a journal such as Ethnologie Française will always have a closer relationship to material culture studies than a purely social anthropology journal such as L’Homme. Indeed, for this reason it has been easier for French scholars to view their research on France as a natural part of their work, while harder to get British anthropologists to frame their work as on Britain, as opposed to an aspect of Britain such as class or ethnicity.

The publication of the issue was marked by a workshop at Le Centre de recherches sur les îles britanniques et l’Europe de l’Université de Paris titled “Qu-est-ce-que la Britishness?” Sophie Chevalier opened with a brief historical comparison of the sociology and anthropology of Britain and France. Sharon MacDonald focused on the creation of the issue followed by papers and discussion from some of the contributors. The papers of most interest to material culture included Elizabeth Hart’s study of how former pottery workers explain the decline of the UK pottery industry. Globalisation and abstract market forces have little place in the narratives of workers for whom the decline rests with the decreasing quality of the hand painted images, the consistency of the slip and the ‘abuse’ of the clay by modern managers. And Catherine Degnen’s study of ‘Placing memory’ in a small Northern town focused on the way people and their relationships are embedded in places of which the material traces are long gone. Both papers presented a contemporary take upon the loss of community, a theme that has long concerned the study of Britain and work by scholars such as Frankenberg, Young and Wilmott. Not to mention the residents and politicians of Britain. By contrast my own paper drew upon a study of one hundred households on a London street that has little in common with village-orientated studies as few residents will ever get to know each other and there is a larger and more transient population.

My paper on the material condition of memory in modern urban households examined how interior décor, collections of clothing, books, music and photographs, differentially structure remembering and forgetting, from the intentional creation of memory to the incidence of utilitarian archives. Although genres of material culture may be studied as if they have certain capacities for memory, individuals and households develop their own habits of memory, selecting between the genres in which they invest memory in the long term and utilising them differently. Each household forms it’s own topography of memory. Also included in the issue is a paper on Cremation and the disposal of ashes by Jenny Hockey and David Prendergast, and a historical examination of the making of anatomical knowledge in Scotland through the materiality of dead bodies by Elizabeth Hallam. In one of the few papers which considered the explicit performance of Britishness, Emma Crewe examined the rites and symbols of the House of Lords.

Finally, Marilyn Strathern reminded the workshop of the importance of critical distance when doing anthropology at home. It is sometimes surprising to see Britain through others eyes. She recalled how visitors from PNG simply did not share our obsession with class and identity, for instance they saw the houses of Britain as all the same, rejecting the way British read differences of size and ornamentation as indexes of class and focusing on the blue print structure. Some of the counterpoints for comparison are closer to home however. Taken as a whole the workshop and the journal issue suggest just how much there is to gain from a rapprochement between British material culture studies in general, and the traditions of European Ethnology both in France and elsewhere in Europe, and I am very grateful to the editors for initiating this relationship.

For details of the journal issue see:

"Grande-Bretagne : anthropology at home", Ethnologie Française, n°2, tome XXXVII (2007)

Contents page:
http://www.puf.com/Book.aspx?book_id=025604&feature_id=map

May 8, 2007

Theorizing Digital Cultural Heritage

booktdch.jpgMIT Press has just released Theorizing Digital Cultural Heritage: A Critical Discourse, edited by Fiona Cameron and Sarah Kenderdine. Here is the publishing blurb:

"In Theorizing Digital Cultural Heritage, experts offer a critical and theoretical appraisal of the uses of digital media by cultural heritage institutions. Previous discussions of cultural heritage and digital technology have left the subject largely unmapped in terms of critical theory; the essays in this volume offer this long-missing perspective on the challenges of using digital media in the research, preservation, management, interpretation, and representation of cultural heritage. The contributors--scholars and practitioners from a range of relevant disciplines--ground theory in practice, considering how digital technology might be used to transform institutional cultures, methods, and relationships with audiences.

The contributors examine the relationship between material and digital objects in collections of art and indigenous artifacts; the implications of digital technology for knowledge creation, documentation, and the concept of authority; and the possibilities for “virtual cultural heritage”--the preservation and interpretation of cultural and natural heritage through real-time, immersive, and interactive techniques.

The essays in Theorizing Digital Cultural Heritage will serve as a resource for professionals, academics, and students in all fields of cultural heritage, including museums, libraries, galleries, archives, and archaeology, as well as those in education and information technology. The range of issues considered and the diverse disciplines and viewpoints represented point to new directions for an emerging field. "

The papers are on the whole shorter and accessible and this looks like a good resource to start thinking through the impact of digitisation on our apprehension of the object world, especially within Museums.

If anyone has read this book, and would like to comment/review it here, please comment below. Equally, what other text or digital resources are available as resources for thinking through the impact of the digital on our understanding of the material world?

March 20, 2007

Living with Things

Danny Miller, UCL

LwTcover web.jpg

A new book has just been published by Nicky Gregson, Professor of Human Geography at Sheffield University, well known through her previous publications such as Second Hand Worlds. The latest book is called Living with Things (Seankingston.co.uk). I admit to a bias, since I am the editor of the series this appears in, and indeed I would use the opportunity to encourage people to send manuscripts. We are certainly interested in material culture books with an anthropological inflection. Living with Things reports a fascinating ethnography of a former coal-mining village in North-East England, seen largely through the internal relationships between the long term lives of objects in the home and the long term occupancy of the homes.

Two main aspects of these relationships emerge through the writing. The first is the idea of accommodating, the way things have to be shifted around and reordered in relations to events such as moving in, doing up the place or having children. With the further implication that, without such events, things often remain stable occupants of home for very considerable periods. But then there is just as much on the internal circulation of objects within the home that may eventually lead to their being thrown out or otherwise disposed of. So here exchange appears mainly as a study of the internal dynamics of households. I confess this is very much my kind of ethnography with considerable attention to the long term trajectories of objects such as toys and appliances. It is the kind of ethnography which shows why material culture is often an ideal conduit for conveying how essential, ordinary, mundane and therefore often quite overlooked practices are central to the normative form of everyday life. Which, after all, these days is increasingly a matter of what happens within the private home.

March 4, 2007

Tinkering Through Material Culture

Patrick Laviolette (UCL / Massey University)

Review of “Thinking Through Material Culture: An Interdisciplinary Perspective” by Carl Knappett (2005); Philadelphia: Univ. of Pennsylvania Press.

[Editorial note: and see Martin Holbraad's response to Danny Miller's review on this site of the book Thinking Through Things as a cross-reference to this review and for an interesting discussion of some of the limits of the category of material culture...]

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“Quantum Cloud” (30 m. x 16 m. x 10 m.) is an elliptical sculpture by the artist Antony Gormley. A version of this piece, standing on four watertight cast iron pylons in the Thames adjacent to London’s Millennium Dome in Greenwich, illustrates the jacket cover of the book reviewed here.
After agreeing that it does indeed have a great cover, it was indicative of how clichés come to exist when a colleague picked up Knappett’s book from my desk before I’d even had a chance to start it and began to read. After a minute or so she put it down with a sigh and said, ‘hmm, well I disagree completely with the first few paragraphs of the introduction’. I thought to myself that this could not possibly be the case. She must surely be exaggerating. How could anyone say anything so controversial in the opening gambit? Overall I have to say that she was right.

One of the main problems with this text is that it has no real thesis. Knappett is a ‘rebel without a cause’ in his attempt to carve out a niche for this book. Indeed, the idea that dualistic thought has hindered the social sciences is far from new. Moreover, there are not that many people, scholars or otherwise, who have any real qualms with accepting or even exploring existential, phenomenological, poetic, post-modern, symbolic or the many other types of non-Descartian modes of being-in and understanding the world. From his preface, we should acknowledge and sympathise with the difficult interdisciplinary task that he has set out for himself. One is nearly ready to suspend disbelief in order to tolerate the omission of certain details in lieu of this idealised project. This is difficult to do for two reasons however. The first, ironically enough, is that Knappett is his own worse enemy in straying from the interdisciplinary path and providing what is largely a conventional cognitive archaeology point of view (unless he feels that examining his own coffee cup is some sophisticated new form of illusory satire in auto-ethnography).

Continue reading "Tinkering Through Material Culture" »

January 19, 2007

Museum Highlights: The Writings of Andrea Fraser

Alex Starace, MA student, Program in Museum Studies, NYU

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Museum Highlights: a Gallery Talk. Performed at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, 1989
Source: http://www1.uol.com.br/bienal/24bienal/rot/erotcanfras03a.htm

Andrea Fraser’s new book Museum Highlights is quite depressing – and I mean that as a compliment. Fraser, an artist and writer, bases her work on the idea that contemporary artistic practice should expose and change the institutional hierarchies and self-interests of the art world. Many of her critiques are scathing. In her essay, “It’s Art When I Say It’s Art, or...” Fraser even admits that “my stomach turns every time I reread this essay,” (43) because she can come to no other conclusion than that the deep-down aspirations of artists are always oriented towards gaining as much authority, recognition, and legitimacy as possible. It’s a decidedly unromantic view of the art world, yet the more one reads of Fraser’s book, the more convincing she becomes. She’s clearly done her homework and, as an artist, she has access to museums, curators, collectors, and dealers in a way that many of us can only dream of. A series of her essays, published in one volume, comprise Museum Highlights (edited by Alexander Alberro) – some are transcripts from performance works she has done, others are pieces of literature written as part of an art work, while still others are critical texts she has published in various magazines.

Continue reading "Museum Highlights: The Writings of Andrea Fraser" »

December 14, 2006

Thinking Through Things

Daniel Miller, UCL

On Thursday 7th December a book launch was held for a new volume Thinking Through Things. Edited by A Henare, M Holbraad and S Wastell and published by Routledge.

The book is clearly of interest to anyone in material culture studies. The primary theme is concerned with transcending any dualism between things and concepts, for which purpose there is considerable engagement with epistemological and ontological issues. The intention is not to develop a new theory, but rather to affirm an analytical methodology, that anthropologists could utilise to gain insights in their various studies. The inspiration is quite clearly the work of Marilyn Strathern, and the degree to which this clearly represents a cadre of younger scholars working enthusiastically to related themes is testimony to her inspiration at Cambridge. After Strathern the other key influences would be the Brazilian anthropologist Viveiros de Castro who has been debating related issues with Strathern at Cambridge. The introduction works through the general concepts surrounding perspectivism that was central to these debates and the degree to which these raise such ontological questions.

The most impressive achievement of the book as a whole is the way these ambitious analytical debates are tied to a constantly high level of scholarship and ethnographic depth that characterise the individual contributions. The papers are much too rich to be constrained within any single theme. For example Amiria Henare’s chapter concerns the interpretive flexibility with which they key treaty that bound the Maori and the colonialists has been dealt with in the subsequent period. She demonstrates how this interpretive flexibility is not something that came from the generic West but is grounded in Maori transformative and dynamic genres. A similar point is made by Wastell through showing that while the envisaging of Western law by the Swazi of Southern Africa as encompassing, was presaged by their notions of divine kingship, this was not an aspect of cultural continuity as conservative. Rather they should be seen as consummate modernists.

Another interesting pair of papers includes a revision of Alfie Gell’s book Art and Agency by James Leach based on research he has conducted on collaborations between artists and scientists in Cambridge. Gell is also employed by Pedersen on shamanist ontologies in Mongolia and in a chapter by the PNG anthropologist Andrew Moutou on switching our conceptualisation of museums from issues of classification to issues of how people conceive of loss (something close to my own current work). Also based in PNG is a sparkling essay by Reed on smoking amongst prisoners in Port Moresby.

The most curious aspect of this book, however, is its first sentence. This states `what would an artefact-oriented anthropology look like, if it were not material culture?’ I found this slightly weird since my own conception of material culture is of a field in which people do not by and large define themselves in a semi-disciplined form, making it quite hard to see it as something one excludes oneself from from. Rather, as one hopes is the case with this weblog, it is more a welcoming and inclusive space for people with shared interests and an eclectic base. The sentence is elaborated upon in the introduction largely by separating out the transcendence of the dualism of thing/concept from that of subjects/objects. Actually I think this is not at all an accurate description of the papers that follow. Several, such as Empson’s paper on Mongolia, seem to me quite clearly exemplifications of the concept of objectification and the way a Strathernian approach to relationships can best be understood through exploring the process of objectification itself which as is clear in Strathern’s own work certainly implicates issues of subjects and objects. But the volume’s introduction does lead to an intriguing result. I felt the fullest exemplification of this desire for separation comes in Holbraad’s paper on the concept of mana which is also applied to a case study of his own fieldwork in which he asserts that one cannot distinguish between the concept of power and the actual powder as used by Cuban diviners. This is expertly done and I wholeheartedly recommend the chapter in question. But what intrigues me is that here it probably is the case that the degree of focus on this powder/power concept/thing ends up with the author paying relatively little regard to something that has been core in material culture studies which is the being of the Cuban diviner. In other words that appreciating that we have here a rather different kind of `object’ should in turn lead an appreciation that we have a rather different kind of subject.

This then has a paradoxical, but I think highly significant result. The separation from material culture might have been an attempt to preserve a more central social anthropology. But it is clear that by narrowing the brief of the introduction the result (if the authors had actually followed such advice), would have not been to make the book more anthropological but actually less so. As I have argued in my introduction to the book Materiality (2005, Duke University Press), I think we should by now be beyond such issues and one of the most powerful contributions of material culture studies is to try and represent the vanguard of anthropology as a whole. An anthropology that no longer feels any such need to ground itself only in concepts such as society and social relations on the one hand, nor take refuge in cognitive studies on the other, but one that is comfortable with the idea of a prior materiality within which a more specific social anthropology can flourish. In short material culture is not a subset of social anthropology but more the other way around. Material culture is a condition for anthropology itself.

Such a material culture adds to anthropology but subtracts nothing. The problem is that this is a relatively new understanding of anthropology, and while adventurous in some ways these Cambridge anthropologists were quite conservative in others. To be frank, I suspect they chickened out of any direct identification with material culture since they were scared that the term might still have a somewhat lower status than mainstream social anthropology. Something which may reflect their parochialism, since in general I don’t think this is a fear that holds much ground these days. To use the term would not then be a commitment to any particular approach, since again as this weblog shows it is both relaxed and eclectic. It is merely an acceptance that materiality is one of the necessary engagements of a larger anthropology.

Ultimately, however, whether people call themselves material culture or not is of limited interest, what matters is the quality of the work and the quality of the insights. And, whether the authors like it or not, this is a volume of considerable interest and consequence to anyone working in the field of material culture studies, with many exemplary chapters.

December 5, 2006

A Brief History of Globalization

Review of: "A Brief History of Globalization" by, Alex MacGillivray (2006); New York, Carroll & Graff

Richard Wilk teaches at the University of Indiana

This is not an academic book, written instead by an activist with a decidedly anti-globalization position. Nevertheless, because it takes a historical perspective, and sees globalization as a complex phenomenon with contradictory tendencies, the book is an excellent introduction to the topic, suitable for classroom use. MacGillivray is an especially good guide to the long term trends in the velocity of travel, exchange, migration and transportation, avoiding that heated tone of sudden crisis which characterizes so much recent writing on globalization.

Anthropologists will especially appreciate the balanced tones with which he approaches the topic of cultural globalization. He correctly identifies the central paradox that even as the culture industries become ever-more concentrated in the hands of a few major transnational companies, local culture constantly re-asserts itself. Rather than falling into the right-left moral discourses of globalization as a panacea or the ultimate evil, MacGillivray carefully identifies the groups who are winners, those who are losers, and those in the middle who get some of each effect, or get nothing at all. Most important for the readers of this blog, the book gives due place to important consumer goods in global history, from the spice trade through tobacco and sugar, to DVDs and cocaine. This book is an easy and quick read, and it includes enough references to get anyone started on a thorough study of this important topic.

November 24, 2006

"Brain of the Earth’s Body"

Review: "Brain of the Earth’s Body: Art, Museums, and the Phantasms of Modernity," by Donald Preziosi (2003); University of Minnesota Press

Sharon Macdonald teaches at the University of Manchester

Donald Preziosi’s "Brain of the Earth’s Body: Art, Museums, and the Phantasms of Modernity" (2003, University of Minnesota Press) is the published version of his 2001 Slade Lectures (an annual series of Art History Lectures at Oxford University). Somebody I know who went to these lectures told me that he found them fascinating but almost impossible to understand. I can see why. But at least in the book form you can read sentences several times (and untangle all the multiple partial parentheses of words). It’s an effort worth making.

Preziosi makes an argument against a representational account of art that is similar to Gell’s in Art and Agency. But where this goes is rather different, for Preziosi is principally concerned with art as a practice of the modern self – and with what follows from this, especially for how we understand the discipline of art history and the institution of the museum, especially the relationship between subjects and objects (which, he argues, is as often about denial as any kind of realisation). The journey is a wonderfully heady one that takes us, among other places, through the John Soane Museum (which we learn is, like many museums, an ostensification of principles of Freemasonry), via a photograph that Preziosi happened upon of his father (or possibly his twin brother) on the walls of the Holocaust Memorial Museum, via the Crystal Palace, the streets of Cairo, the Pitt-Rivers Museum, circumcision, Lacan, ‘the irony of all exit signs’…. to, where? The final chapter rethinks the ubiquitous Index, Icon, Symbol distinction to add a fourth: ‘artifice’, based on a relation of ‘adequation’ which, Preziosi suggests, can offer an alternative to the ‘ultimately unsatisfying attempts to apply a verbocentrist or linguistically based semiotic model or theory to art’ (p.146). (Intriguingly, this is based on recollections of conversations about this with Roman Jakobson.)

But what, you may ask, is the ‘brain of the earth’s body’? The answer is ‘Europe’, though as this is a blog and I’ve run out of space, you’ll have to read the book to decipher Preziosi’s ruminations on why he can get away with what might otherwise seem an outrageously non-pc metaphor.

November 17, 2006

Consumers and Citizens: Globalization and Multicultural Conflicts.

García Canclini, Néstor (2001) Consumers and Citizens: Globalization and Multicultural Conflicts. University of Minnesota Press

In Consumers and Citizens, García Canclini suggests the necessity to consider how the changes in modes of consumption have altered the possibilities of citizenship in the Latin American context. Through several essays the author proposes a romanticized idea of citizenship and social movements in Latin America that struggle to survive by being redefined; people in mega-cities (particularly Mexico City) answer the questions on belonging, rights and interests traditionally located in the public sphere in the realm of private consumption.

This book belongs to the 1990s trend within anthropology, sociology and cultural studies on globalization, Americanization, multicultural identities and mass consumption, with a particular focus on the cultural industries. Some essays are quite pessimistic; the author exacerbates the ideas of disconnection, atomization and insignificance. Others propose the several policy measures that are needed in order to achieve new versions of citizenship.

As a whole, it is hard to find either answers or a creative reflection on the relationship between consumption and citizenship. This book is better at showing the methodological implications of doing research in contemporary Latin American urban sites and the need of interdisciplinary work. The author’s ability to gather and integrate data from the most varied sources –including literature, ethnography and continental surveys- is maybe its selling point.

This book is of interest for those anthropologists working on material culture of Latin America, as it works as a frame for contextualized research. It is well strong on studies and literature of that time and written from the insider perspective of one of the well reputed scholars in the region.

Marjorie Murray
PhD candidate Department of Anthropology, University College London

October 23, 2006

Where Stuff Comes From

Review: Harvey Molotch (2003), Where stuff comes from - how toasters, toilets, cars, computers and many other things come to be as they are. London: Taylor and Francis

Elizabeth Shove and Matt Waton teach at the Department of Sociology, University of Lancaster

'Where Stuff Comes From' does an excellent job of opening up debate about product design and of asking new questions about the hardware with which we live our lives. What is it that gives shape and form to the 'stuff' that surrounds us? In dipping into the world of design, Harvey Molotch deals with questions of fun, functionality and fashion, also taking note of the structuring of supply chains and the organisation of production. In focusing on design in this way, his book sits squarely between typically generic arguments about consumers' pursuit of novelty and more technologically oriented theories of innovation.

This is interesting and surprisingly unpopulated territory. On the other hand, and despite the promise of the first chapter, Molotch does not go on to analyse objects in use or to develop the theoretical resources required to take such a project forward. Instead, he follows products to the market, commenting on the relation between material and cultural dynamics at a relatively abstract level, but stopping short of looking at how 'stuff' is appropriated in practice. As the title suggests, the focus is on where stuff comes from, not on where it goes to, or what happens next.

Questions about how stuff is appropriated, transformed and embedded are all central topics for those who write about 'material culture'. But the funny thing is that such authors only rarely ask themselves where does this stuff come from? How is it that there is such a divide between social studies of stuff up to the point where it is sold, and social analyses of what goes on beyond that point? Artefacts cross this boundary with ease, but it remains an important stumbling block in academic scholarship.