March 18, 2008

I See London, I See France...

You've got me. Midterms aren't over yet but I can't resist, there's much to share. Let us return to the weekend before last, March 7th-10th.

Friday morning I met Lee at the Gare de Nord train station, weekend bag in tow. Our excitement over taking the SNF train for the first time was muffled by the ungodly hour of our departure and our temporary lack of caffiene. We just made our train. On board, we tucked into a little four seat set up complete with a table and a garbage can (we travel in style). It wasn't until the end of the trip that we found out there were assigned seats. Our luxurious lay out on the way to London was completely not what we payed for. Oops.

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We arrived at King's Cross-St. Pancreas station just before 9 o'clock am. After finding Lee's hotel and dropping off our bags, we were in dire need of an energizing lunch. We met up with Carrie, who we hadn't seen in ages! The American University in Paris already had their spring break. Carrie had been off exploring Spain without us. NYU in Paris doesn't break until April 16th...we're hanging in there.

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Our lunch was strategic. We sat and drafted one of our famous 'napkin lists' of things that must be accomplished before returning to Paris. Item #1: Find Harry Potter. Harry was then followed by become a Princess, eat an inhumane amount of Indian food, find out why 'Big Ben' is called 'Big Ben' and afternoon tea.

First stop, Harry Potter. We made our way to Platform 9 3/4. We were in King's Cross Station after all...

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I'm sure you can imagine our despair when we found out that we could not make it the entire way through the wall. The train to Hogwarts must have left without us...we'll have to find Harry next time.

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The other girls continued their day at Harrids and Hyde Park while I met up with my dear friend Lauren. Lauren and I were best of friends in elementary school until she moved back to London with her family in 5th grade. While the other girls were exploring in the city of London, I was thrilled to spend the weekend at Lauren's home in Chorleywood. Chorleywood is still considered London, only nothing about it resembles the bustling streets of double-decker busses one might imagine. Chorleywood is a quintessential country town complete with fields, forests, rugby fanatics and hearty grub. In fact, I was told that Chorleywood was voted the "happiest village in Britain" last year. Only 45 minutes outside of the center of London, you feel like you're in a entirely different world.


Our time in Choleywood was delightful. I had already seen the main sights in London during my last trip. What I was craving was the taste of family life that I've been missing desperately being so far from home. After a few days of home cooked meals, a handful of family outings and a couple of dog walks later, I was feeling great! There's just something about sitting in your pajamas and eating cereal with everyone around the table that warms you right up. Speaking of breakfast, one morning we all piled in the car ( Lauren's sister Bella needed to practice for her driving test...seat belts were needed) to go to Home and Colonial. This local gem is four floors of pure heaven. The bottom three are chocked full with antiques goodies and modern housewares, yet the top floor is certainly the most delicious. The attic of the old building is the cutest cafe I have seen in a long time. (This coming from a girl who lives in Paris) The rustic table and chairs were softened with cotton table clothes and cozy cushions. Tea cakes lined the walls, families passed plates around the tables and newspapers were lying around everything for you to read as you sipped coffee. We munched on scones, coffee and a full english breakfast: fried egg, sausage, bacon, sauteed mushrooms, tomato and toast with jam. Could it get any better than that?

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Twice the girls and I took the train into the center of London. First, we went in to meet Carrie and Lee for dinner and dancing. Wagamama is a fusion chain around Europe that is perfect for the college traveler. The food is creative, always tasty, and surprisingly cheap. It's a great place for a fun dinner out with friends or just a nice way to get in a spicy fix between your croissants, baguettes and mellow cheeses.

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That night we followed Lauren to the quirky dance location Punk. Apparently Kate Moss had her 30th birthday party there. It was a great place to let loose to all of the old American dance classics that are so hip whence transplanted abroad.

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Our second excursion into the city was to explore the Bricklane Market. As you can tell from previous post I'm a huge market fan here in Paris, but the Bricklane Market was a knockout in comparison. The market combines vintage clothing, work from struggling artists and jewelers, indie music and the most amazing ethnic food I have ever come across. Everything was packed within rows of dusty tents, a melange of different treasures, something to suite everyone's fancy.

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We lunched at an organic spot called Leon. It reminded me of Grey Dog in the village only a little larger and a little more daring in terms of their menu. We tried the roasted sweet potato falafel with brown bazmati rice and sesame slaw.

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We spent our last moments together savoring an afternoon tea at Schipps. There's no possible way you could feel unfeminine sitting around the doily covered table with crumbly scones. Sipping tea with your pinky up was an absolute must. The best feature of all...cupcakes! A sight for sore eyes! I hadn't seen a frosted little beauty in over two months! A perfect ending for a charming British weekend.

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5:30 Monday morning, Lee and I made our way back to King's Cross station the minute the metro opened. As our train pulled out of the station we said goodbye to Harry Potter, goodbye to Big Ben and goodbye to all of the signs that say "mind the gap while exiting the train" in English. Back to Bonjour's and s'il vous plaît's.

March 10, 2008

London On Its Way...

Do I have some stories to share with you! Life has been picking up speed these past few weeks and things will only be getting more lively. Consider this an "i.o.u" for a thrilling entry about recent adventures. Unfortunately we're in the midst of midterms here at NYU Paris and my attention is turned towards work I actually get graded on. Trust that I'd much rather be writing for you...enjoy!

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February 26, 2008

Amo España

The knot I managed to tangle in my stomach while sitting on the crowded bus to Beauvais Aeroport literally throbbed with each passing street sign. My nerves were inconsolable. The travel folder I had prepared weeks in advance sat open on my lap. It overflowed with confirmation numbers, receipts and photocopies of all of the documents one might need in any crisis; catastrophic or small. Over and over I read the papers. Double checking. Triple checking...sounds like a fantastic time, right?

Indeed it was! The worst is now over. All of the nail biting anticipation leading up to my first weekend excursion (sans assistance from any greater authority) was well worth it. On behalf of myself and two other NYU adventurers, I'd like to announce that Barcelona 2008 was an enormous success.

When it comes to organized travel, I must admit NYU Paris leaves a bit to be desired. There are only two trips planned outside of the Île-de-France in the coming weeks. A group of us will be escorted to Nimes for a "French Cowboy" and Roman ruins escapade on March 14th. In early April, another group will be traveling to Marseille. While it's appreciated that we only have to pay 30 euro for our voyages, as compared to the AUP students who shell out a bit more, I'd gladly empty my wallet for greater options. My dear friend Carrie, an NYU student currently studying at AUP, explains that they have the opportunity to go to all different location both in France and abroad during the semester. True, the prices are "steeper" for a student budget. Come on though. No matter what, we're all traveling at a discounted price.

To remedy our frustration, we have taken matters into our own hands and have planned trips accordingly. This past weekend began our exploration of the rest of Europe. First stop. Spain.

After an hour and a half bus ride from Port Malliot to Beauvais, an hour and a half flight from Beauvais to Girona, and finally an hour and a half bus ride from Girona to Barcelona...we found ourselves outside of #24 Qua Roger de Lluria.

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I had found this apartment through Nicestay Barcelona. If you ever find yourself in Barcelona I highly recommend you use this site. Basically, you rent out a room in an apartment for a few nights at a ridiculously affordable price. To give you an idea, for three girls and three nights we ended up paying just under 60 euro each. Total.

We had a double bed, a pull out and a well loved mini-fridge in our bedroom. There was a bathroom down the hall that was all our own. We had access to their computer, kitchen, living room, balcony and extensive Spanish DVD collection (which unfortunately we never tapped).

I suppose the real question is, how do you milk the most out of a city like Barcelona in just three days? You hit the ground running, that's for sure. We set off right away to see some of Antonio Gaudi architecture.

The first Gaudi we came upon was the Casa Batlló. Some people call it the house of bones. Wedged between traditional spanish homes and your typical skyscrapers, Gaudi's work may seem more Disney than designer. Yet upon taking a second look, you realize just how impressive these buildings are. I wish I knew more about architecture so that I could appreciate the magnitude of creativity that must have went into making these homes. I was more taken by the odd shape of the windows and by trying to figure out how one would go about framing a structure like this. You can rent out rooms in the casa for different events. How awful would it be to have a wedding there? "House of Bones"...romantic. It just seems like a bad omen.

Casa Milà is only a short walk up the street. I was mislead by a guidebook that suggested the windows represented yawning mouths. Apparently, the lines of the building reflect the curves of the ocean waves. Let's just say it's shapely. We opted not to go into their building. Student Travel Tip: If you're working on a tight budget, prioritize. Which attractions you're willing to spend money on and where can you cut corners? While the insides of Guadi's buildings are certainly noteworthy, the general structure and facade are what one really must see. Instead of spending 16 euro to enter...we appreciated the free view from across the street and kept our wallets tucked away.

Clearly my largest priority in any situation is food. A great meal is one thing I am not willing to sacrifice. Of course, wherever you are, there are great eats at even better prices. Barcelona was no exception. We thought it only appropriate to kick off our spanish adventure with some regional faire. One paella pan and a pitcher of sangria later, ay Dios mio, our bellies were singing Barcelona's praises!

Our meal was followed by a siesta, which after a long travel day, ended up turning into a full night's rest. No harm done though. We were fresh and ready to go early the next morning. Carrie, Kristine and Myself strolled down the main street La Ramblas searching for a place to grab a strong cup of spanish coffee amidts the cafes and stores bustling with weekend visitors just like ourselves. Directly across from the opera house is the Cafe Opera (surprise, surprise) famous for both its dishes and its fantastic view. Student Tip: prioritize! Where as it would be nice to munch on warm pastries from such a well loved spot, we knew our needs would be just as well met by the popular "Cappuccino" next door. . After all, coffee was our immediate goal. "Cappuccino" even shared a terrace with Cafe Opera. Why splurge on your morning beverage when you don't have to? We sipped and chatted quite contently as we reminded one another, "Hey, we're in Barcelona right now." Caffeinated and ready for action, we then made our way to Placa de Catalunya.

Last year, my stunning godmother Aunt Eileen vacationed in Barcelona. Repeatedly she told me I simply had to use the "hop-on, hop-off" bus when I visited. Never underestimate the fantastic judgment of a well traveled family member! In one afternoon we were able to see more of Barcelona than we did during the rest of our time combined. It was just as vital to our experience as Aunt Eileen had explained.

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Barcelona Bus Tours features three different lines: Red, Blue and Green. While some of the colors overlap at certain stops (scandalous, I know) for the most part the different paths take you to all different locations around the city. There is a ticket booth at Placa de Catalunya where you can buy a day pass for only 20 euro. There are over 40 stops that you can visit. You can get on and off the bus as many times as you'd like, for as long as you'd like, all day long. Even better, you get free headphones and a coupon booklet with discounts for all of the museums, sites and various restaurants around the city. Did I mention it's an open air bus?

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The weather was intoxicating. Much warmer than Paris. The three of us plugged in our headphones and listened to the guided tour while we sat on the sun-drenched bus. Not a bad way to experience Spain, huh? There was even elevator music in between the dialog. Thanks for the tip Aunt Eileen!

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MNAC

Since we had seen the Gaudi's the day before, we stayed on the bus until we reached Poble Espanyol, an open-air art museum near the MNAC. The "museum" itself is set up as a village with buildings inside representing the different periods of spanish architecture. The areas house museum exhibits, galleries, art classes, shops and cafes. We were dying to visit the Art Therapy workshop but it was closed. Instead we invaded the sculpture garden. Unintentionally we stumbled upon a glass blowing studio tuck away in one of the plazas. I had never seen molten glass before. It's blinding! I go to school in Manhattan, I know bright lights, but the glass was something else. Of course, with each new location comes a new opportunity to eat. I wish I had a better picture to share with you. We ate on the terrace of a cafe that was shaded by orange trees. You know how there are those handful of moments where you just close you eyes and wonder "how did I get here? Is this actually my life?" This was one of them. The buildings, the smell of oranges, the sun sinking in the sky and a piece of fresh melon draped with aged prosciutto...a more skillful writer would do the scene much more justice. I'll just let you enjoy the photos.

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The rest of the afternoon was filled with other sites and bites. We went on a gondola ride that over looked the city.

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On our way to the old port we passed all sorts of interesting sculptures. I think the sculptures were my favorite part of Barcelona. The Barcelona Aquarium was quite a treat as well. Not only did we get to see penguins, which made us so nostalgic of home, but there was an underwater shark tunnel as well. We might also have found Nemo...incase you're interested, he lives in Barcelona.

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This is known as the "Happy Lobster Sculpture"

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We wrapped up the touring part of our day with cotton candy and tango. What could be more perfect? Sweet and spicy.

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One of the things we had planned was a visit to Milk, a lounge in the Gothic Quater that I read about on a food blog. It was voted one of the "Top 3 New Bars/Bistros" in Barcelona by Elle Magazine. Elle certainly knows best in this case. What a gem. Not only was Milk's menu completely creative, the decor was plush and their one Irish staff member quite attentive to our every need. The next morning we returned for their famous brunch. Fluffy pancakes with bananas and peaches drenched in Canadian maple syrup...they won me over, heart and soul. I think Carrie was afraid she might have to drag me out. Then again, her salmon eggs benedict was worthy of some plate licking as well.

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Sunday, our final day in Barcelona. Carrie and I explored Barcelona on our own while Kristine made her way to the Soccer Stadium. We did have a stroke of bad luck for a while. Everything we wanted to see was closed. I keep forgetting the Sundays in Europe are not the same as Sundays in Manhattan. The most heartbreaking loss was missing out on the market near Ramblas. It's all I had been reading about prior to the trip! We shook off the defeat with two huge cups of coffee and a walk up to the "diagonal" street where we passed a Zara and a Mango while on the bus the day before. Since they are two Spanish based companies, it's said that their stores in Barcelona as very reasonably priced. Discounted Zara? Of course we were going to take the walk. Unfortunately, clothing store are also closed on Sunday in Barcelona along with everything else. By that time, the MNAC (another location on our list for the day) was closed. On our walk back we did see a sign for "free entrance" to the Spanish Art Museum. Yet the only part of the Spanish Art Museum that is opened to the public on Sundays is the lobby. What a deal. We salvaged the rest of our day with aimless meandering that proved to be very successful. We found some artisan stands that peeked our interest and went into the cathedral in the Gothic Quarter. The cathedral was beautiful. It was lush and tropical in a way that seemed too luxurious for a place of worship. Carrie, in an attempt to comprehend Christian extravagance, questioned why you'd had to pay to get into a gathering place for your own religion and why a building that should be associated with piousness was so obviously opulent. "Cathedrals are all a part of the 'My church is more bad-ass than yours' battle of the past", I explained. As for the price tag attached to 'the house of God', it's a question I often ask as well. Regardless, we enjoyed our time there. We were smitten with the swans.

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When hunger struck, we shared some street sweets. Here's Carrie with our delicious juice. Honestly, fruit has never tasted better. It was just a blend of fresh mangos, pineapple and bananas. Eating in transit is an act we've pretty much mastered since we started sharing food with one another in Paris. We synchronize our pace with our sipping/eating. One sip, pass. One sip, pass. One bite, pass. One bite, pass. The juice was just the overture to the real treat though.

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You didn't think I'd leave Spain without visiting a bakery did you? Of course not. For lunch we choose a selection of cookies from the plentiful display. The decision was difficult, I'm not going to lie. We ended up with an espresso shortbread, a hazelnut biscuit, a dipped cookie, a cream puff of sorts and a mystery cookie that I still can't identify. We sat in a plaza near the cathedral and munched. We attempted to console one another about the exams we had the following morning as soon as we arrived in Paris. The decision was made that we'd return to the apartment so that Carrie could snooze and recharge a bit and I could grab my books to go study.

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I promise I was on my way to go study before I was distracted by my own desire to meander through the Gothic Quarter. For a few hours I got lost within the narrow streets and different parks. There were gardens, sculptures, dark corners and uneven cobble stones. Perhaps there was some gelato and falafel thrown in there as well. Eventually I did find a quiet plaza to study in. It just seemed unfair to Spain to focus all of my attention on memorizing French vocabulary while in the belly of one of it's finest cities.

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The whole process of traveling as a student is amazing. The business of discount travel for young people, especially university students, is enormous and appears to be growing still. I'll definitely have more to share on this subject as the weekends pass and my suitcase is weathered. In the meantime, check out Ryanair, Easyjet, Skyscanner, Kayak, SNCF and Hostel World. Those are the sites I've used so far.

Things to watch out for:
-Traveler's insurance: it's an extra charge on the airline's websites. Say you don't need it and your tickets will be cheaper.

-If you're abroad and don't have access to a printer in your apartment, think twice about choosing the "online check in" option. If you can't print a boarding pass, and you opted for online check-in, you'll have to pay the 4 euros at the airport and they only take it by credit card.

-Don't pay more to check a bag. Select the carry on only option. Save money and the stress of heavy luggage. It's a weekend trip, how much could you possible need? Watch your liquids though. As long as they fit within one of those large plastic bags, you're good to go.

-Take note of what city you're flying into when using discount travel sites. For example: Ryanair says "Paris" but it's really "Paris-Beauvais". Beauvais is definitely not Paris. You'll have to plan transportation and transfers accordingly. Make sure you have an afforable way to get from the airport to your real destination. Otherwise, you might as well explore the option of paying a bit more for your ticket but actually getting to were you need to go.

-If you're paying on European based websites with a US credit card, there's an additional charge. Just be mindful of it.

February 12, 2008

Château du Jour

" A man's home is his castle"

Funny how this American Proverb takes on new significance whence overseas. In a country where a man's home could truly be an aged castle, it becomes increasingly difficult to separate the haute from the historical. Only a few miles outside of Paris, streets are shaded by the vine covered gates of "grand residences" housing families no different than yours or mine. Even the most modest maison could make those at House&Garden or Town&Country green with envy. Yet there is no denying the unique grandeur of a few particular French Châteaus; charming escapes brimming with stories of a past both nobel and indulgent.

This past weekend I was submerged into the finery of château. Four days. Four chateaus, or castles if you will. While there are many magnificent homes both in and around Paris, clearly there are a handful that are well preserved and world renowned. Friday, in the chill of the early morning, a group of us huddled at the doors of three coach buses waiting to be whisked away into the countryside. This petite escapade was organized by NYU Paris as a celebration of our completion of the preliminary course. As we pulled away from the curb at Trocadero, we could see the lazy Parisian sun warming the Tour Eiffel one beam at a time...we were in for quite a delightful afternoon.

Our first stop, Château de Chantilly...
Like many of the gorgeous residences out in the country, this palace actually began as a hunting lodge. Mind you my brain has absorbed its share of château trivia in the past week, but for what I can remember Chantilly was owned by the Orgemont family, the Montmorency family and finally the Bourbon Condé family. The Bourbons, as you may already know, were the cousins of the King of France. Also, their collection of paintings serve as the main exhibits for the Condé Museum within the château.

There are so many famous images that you've seen over and over again, perhaps unconsciously, yet never really know who they're from or where they're housed. While wandering through the Condé Museum, I stubbled upon a number of paintings that I recognized. My most remarkable find was the portrait of Marie Antoinette displayed in the main gallery. This particular painting of the Queen was one I had become quite familiar with during my freshmen year at NYU. Sophia Coppola's movie had just been released, I was taking an honors seminar on Versailles with Guy Walton and my dorm room was proudly stocked with almost every current biography of Marie Antoinette for both papers and for personal interest. Needless to see, this portrait of Marie haunted my bookshelf for some time. I forget exactly which biography used it as its cover. Another painting many people recognized was of the three muses by Raphael. Unfortunately, the room in which it was displayed was a bit too dark for me to take a picture without a flash.

Après a long morning visit at they Château de Chantilly, our minds were absorbed with thoughts of our impending lunch at our next locale. I do admit, however, I was a bit reluctant to leave without tasting any Chantilly cream or seeing any Chantilly lace. Nonetheless, for the second time that day we piled onto the bus. With aching feet and hallow stomachs we were off to Château de Raray.

Now depending on your attitude towards beautiful old castels, Château de Raray may be considered a bit of a Château knock-off. At one time it was a beautiful home of some noble steed who's name I've yet to learn. Even more importantly, at one time this gorgeous mansion was the set of the 1946 film La Belle et La Bête. If you have never seen this Jean Cocteau film, you should. Not only is it a great piece of art but you can check out Château de Raray in all of its glory. Anyway, I call it a Château knock-off because currently it is not preserved as a museum and there are no magical beasts hiding in its dank corners. Now, Château de Raray is a golf resort. A magnificent golf resort really. Yet it just bothers me that this grand structure is now a site from athletic amusement and fine dining instead of historical appreciation. C'est la vie.

I really should not be complaining. We had a lovely lunch at Raray. The dining room was plush and elegant. I've become enamored with the abundance of oversized window treatments here in France. No matter what the view, things just appear charming when draped with richly colored satin. We took our last sips of café just as the sun began to sink into the afternoon haze. Before we began our return to Paris, we took some time to walk the grounds and soak in the golden glow.

Come Saturday, I had officially caught the château bug. Again I woke early to begin the journey to yet another fabulous residence. My friend Perrin and I met at the Gare de Lyon, grabbed two large café crèmes to go and chatted away as our train stormed its way out of Paris towards Fointainebleau-Avon. I first learned of the Château de Fontainebleau during my art history course on Versailles. Like many other royal getaways, the structure of the building was altered as each new king and each new group of artists came through. Fontainebleau is known particularly as Napoleon's favorite. In his apartments, you can still see his tiny little bed and his kiddy pool of a bathtub. He was must more petit than I had imagined.

Fontainebleau is also known from incorporating more modern Italian techniques into its architecture, however, even more notable are the gardens which are supposed to be stunning come spring. Perrin and I let ourselves get lost on the grounds for hours before roaming back into the town for a late lunch. Modern château living...not bad for a bunch of young girls right?

The final château wasn't really a château at all. Sorry to disappoint, but a change was in order! This afternoon a few classmates and I visited the home of author Honoré de Balzac with our professor. Surprisingly, his home in the 16th arrondissement has remained completely intact and is a mere two minute walk from our campus. The building itself is interesting. There are two entrances, one on street level and the other one practically through the roof. Our professor explained that this perk served as a wonderful benefit to Balzac when creditors were looking for their pay. Again, the rooms seemed extravagant despite their alleged modesty to the untrained eye of an american youth. It was fascinating to see the preserved pages of his many manuscript covered with slash marks, notes and large x's. I suppose such severe editing could make you feel much better about having your own papers massacred by the pens of hateful professors.

Now that this eventful weekend has come to a close, I've come to look at my little studio in the Latin Quarter with a whole new appreciation. If a man's home really is his castle, I suppose I'm living in a land of Kings.